Hello, I’m a first time poster, long time woodworker. I have a customer who wants that painted finish that you sand through the edges to expose the base coat underneath. I have been spraying catylized polyurethane with an Apollo HVLP gun for about 15 yrs but this would be my first high end antique finish. What is the best paint to use? Do I use tinted sand sealer? Do I put a clear coat over it? Money is no object, just looking for the best job. Thanks for any help.
Morgan.
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Replies
Someone in our shop just did a finish like this recently, I'll get the details and pass them on ASAP.
John W.
Pop Woodworking (Oct 03) game some suggestions on that shaker table. Finish, apply shellac, then apply the next finish. While the second coat is still wet rub a rag with the wet/soaked w / the paint's thinner (water for water based, mineral spirits for oil) It removes the paint where you rubbed giving it a layered effect. The shellac will try to prevent you to going to bare wood.
Daughter and husband make this style of furniture. They paint the base color on, sand through where there would be normal wear and apply a "glaze" of stain wiped on and wiped off over the entire piece. You could add a top finish clear coat of varnish for more protection.
For an even more "antique" finish, you can paint with two colors of base coat. Put on one base coat. Then at some places apply vaseline. In these spots the second (different color) will not adhere so it will appear as if the second coat was worn. Then proceed with the sanding to the bare wood.
There are several good books available about doing these finishes--or look online for faux finishing.
Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner but the guy I needed to talk to was away for a couple of days.
The procedure for achieving an antique paint finish is fairly simple:
1. The first coat is a white pigmented shellac based primer, such as Bins, tinted at the paint store to the undercoat color, in this case the color was a pale blue.
2. The second coat is a satin latex tinted for the top color, for this piece a medium blue was used.
3. Sand through the top color to expose the lower color and maybe a little wood at the logical wear points, such as edges and behind knobs and pulls. Go easy at this, some pieces I've seen are overdone, worn through everywhere, they start to look fake.
4. The final finish was a coat of wipe on, solvent based, polyurethane. In this case the poly was tinted with artist's burnt umber color oil paint to make the piece look "dirtier". The top coat, even if it isn't tinted, will make the paint colors darken somewhat, so you should experiment with test boards before starting on the furniture.
Hope this helps, John W.
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