Replies

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 19, 2008 11:30pm | #1

   Will,

   I'd leave at least 1/2" of thickness under the head of the bed bolt. Are you referring to the tenon at the ends of the rails? If you plan to glue the rails to the head board and foot board, don't oil the tenons. However, if you glue the rails to the head/foot boards, you end up with a near-immovable piece of furniture. I'd recommend using the tenons to take the shear forces and the bolts for tension. When I built my bed, I used a tenon in the center of the rail which ran into the 2"x2" posts. I used two bolts at each corner to keep everything together - one above the tenon and one below.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   roc | Dec 20, 2008 05:51am | #2

   I got a bed to make so I am jumping in here. Made lots of all metal sculptural beds for what that is worth. I have not made a bed out of wood so I am learning.What I am hearing Will asking is:The tenon is to be disassemblable (not glued in). Shall he put oil finish on the unseen tenon or leave it bare wood. Will the oil finish act as a weak adhesive and make a problem when taking the bed apart to move it or get all rancid and gooey or will it improve the end product. Pun intended.roc

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 21, 2008 04:37am | #3

   With the exception of captian's beds, metal beds and wood beds are all have rails attached to the foot/head boards in one of a couple ways.I don't think that the oil will get gummy unless it is old or never allowed to fully dry (think pure oils). That said, it doesn't matter too much whether the tenons are finished or not. I certainly wouldn't take any added precautions to prevent getting any finish on them. For what it's worth, the tenons I used are raw, unfinished.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 21, 2008 07:38pm | #5

   think pure oils.....

   I have used Rockler (stated on container) pure tung oil. I like it for some projects but I think I'll be using my good old MINWAX or General Finishes 'natural' Danish Oil.

   I will use whatever product I decide to use only on the visible parts. I was thinking of a 'protective' application of the Rockler tung oil in the mortice and on the tenons. Not a buildup as in a visible finish. Only a wash coat to let that wood have some 'oil'.

   I have no idea why I have told myself to do this other that for 'look' (unassembled parts) and maybe it may help somewhat with regards to moisture penetration (expansion and contraction).

   My beds will be able to be completely disassembled from the posts. Rails, headboard and footboard.

   As to the question about wood depth for the tenons. I guess I should have asked what is the minimum thickness of the wood required between the end of the tenon and the underside of the bea bolt head flange. My first thought was 'the thicker the better!'.

   I guess what I really need to know is what do most think is a safe minimum?

   My posts are on the 'thin' side. About 2 inch by 1 3/4 inch below where the taper begins.  I would think 'plenty of wood' IF... I do not recess the heads of the bolts. NO if I want to countersink them. But I am not positive this is true.

   I have no problem with the exposed bolt heads. BUT these beds are for children. Anything sticking out IS A PROBLEM the way I think.

   I have looked, but never found, bed bolt covers that are for flush mounted bolts. If I could carv, a very easy solution. But I stink at carving! And then again maybe a tapered 'cover' to cover flush mounted bolt heads?

   The bed posts and most other parts of the bed are made of laminations of Sapele and Panga-Panga. The rails will be reversible. Not the Head and Foot boards. The rails will show only Sapele on one side and Panga-Panga with Sapele on the other side.

   The posts were laminated with 3/4 inch thickness of Panga-Panga for the center and Sapele on each side. The posts Mortise is 3/4 inch wide by 3/4 inch deep by 4 inches high. Each rail tenon a 'bit' shorter. All the wood is quarter sawn.. OK, so the Panga-Panga was marked 'Riff' but very close if not QS?...

    

   Edited 12/21/2008 11:42 am by WillGeorge

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 31, 2008 07:00am | #8

   Will,I am not at all a fan of pure oils. I would sooner sand than use them.Regarding tenon penetration, you really only need enough to support the rails which in turn support the mattress and the occupants...From my bed, I think that your posts are plenty big enough. The exposed bolts I used (from LV) are very low profile, protruding maybe one-eighth of an inch. I do not see any safety issue at all with these. Of course, only the bolt heads are exposed, not the bolts themselves.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   BruceS | Dec 21, 2008 06:10am | #4

   The strength of the joints for bed is largely determined by the age of the users ;-)  We could get by with drywall screws!

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   roc | Dec 21, 2008 09:02pm | #6

   >joint strength determined by age of userHa, ha, ha, aaahhhh, Ha, ha, haroc

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 23, 2008 07:10am | #7

   I would not oil the tenon.  It probably wouldn't do much harm--though I wouldn't want to assemble the bed before the oil had had time to cure.  But, I can't see any good that would result, either.  The tenons into the legs need only be around 3/4" or even a bit less in length, and the bolts need only to be recessed enough for the head to be flush with the surface.  That would leave close to an inch under the head, and the pressure would be compressive across the grain.  I would want the nut set deeper into the rail, since the pull of the nut would be with the grain.