Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Dec 12, 2008 02:55pm | #1

   John,

   In general, you only need one coat of dye; additional coats really don't do much.

   Having said that, you can sand the first coat of dye to remove the raised grain and then re-apply the dye. Just try to be careful not to heavily sand and cut through the edges, since depending on how dark your dye is, they might not match perfectly.

   The best approach is to raise the grain with plain distilled water,  sand to remove the raised grain and then apply the dye.

   Rob Millard
   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com 

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 12, 2008 06:26pm | #2

   Yes, you can CAREFULLY sand the first coat before applying subsequent coats.  You may need to wait a little longer to get it to cure harder before you sand.  I would use shellac as the first coat, which dries much faster, and sands much better than a polyrethane varnish. 

3. 
   RMillard | Dec 13, 2008 04:57am | #3

   John,

   I'm sorry about my reply. I completely misread your question; somehow I skipped over the whole poly part.

   Steve, as usual had the prefect answer.

   Rob Millard
   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   jpohja | Dec 13, 2008 05:57am | #4

   No problem. I could see that maybe i hadn't explained it as well as i could've. Nevertheless, i appreciate your taking time to respond.  John 

4. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 14, 2008 08:42am | #5

   Just me and NO finishing expert whatssoever by anybodies standards... If I use oil or water based my first sanding is with the good old green 3M pad saturated with the product I used! I do that just after the finish is 'sort' of dry..

   After that whatever it takes!

5. 
   pastorchairmaker | Dec 15, 2008 04:30pm | #6

   Hi John,

   Thanks for bringing this up for discussion.  I recently started using aniline dyes on my Windsor chairs.  I used the medium walnut dye sold as Transfast by Homestead Finishing Co. 

   I have a related question.  I am new to the forum and I hope it is okay to ask it here.  Can you guys give any tips on treating the areas where you use wood filler?   

   I had some small areas where I used Elmers Wood filler which stayed lighter no matter how much dye I treated it with.  I ended up carefully brushing on some gel stain, feathering the edges of the gel stain and then fixing it on the wood with a quick shot from a spray can of polyurethane.   I also tried some of the Minwax pens, but they didn't give me a good match either.

   Thanks, Jim

    

    

    

1. 
   RMillard | Dec 15, 2008 07:25pm | #7

   I like to color the wood, seal it and then fix any minor defects.  Having said that. depending on the defect I will, fix them before coloring, if I think the dye will accentuate the  problem area; typically this is for with the grain splits in veneer. I haven't used wood fillers in a long time, because they really never worked very well (for me at least); instead I use burn in sticks. These come in nearly every wood shade and can be melted together to make a custom shade. For the most part they work best on darker woods, although I have been sucsessful using them on curly and birdseye maple.

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   pastorchairmaker | Dec 15, 2008 08:03pm | #8

   Hi Rob,

   Thanks for the great suggestion.  I'll check out the burn in sticks. 

   Is there a limitation with that approach when fixing imperfections in say softer wood like white pine? I mean do you get some undersired burning effects or something.  Lately, I've been repairing some tearout spots on Windosr chair seats when using a brad point bits.   

   Neat work on the period pieces.  I'm hoping to build a lowboy this year.

   Thanks,

   Jim 

1. 
   RMillard | Dec 15, 2008 11:00pm | #9

   Jim,

   There won't be any danger of burning the wood, because the heat needed to melt the sticks it quite low. In fact getting them too hot will cause internal bubbles. I use an electric tool made for melting the sticks (see link below).

   http://www.constantines.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=147

   But you can use a knife heated with a lamp (see link below)

   http://www.constantines.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=138

     I have had pretty good success getting clean holes with a brad point bit in softwood, by running it in reverse to shear the fibers and then going forward to drill the hole.

   I have not made a Windsor chair, but I have writing arm one to do this coming year

   Good luck on your Lowboy and be sure to post some photos of it, I'd also like to see some photos of the chairs.

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com

   The spell check is not working, so please excuse any mistakes.

1. 
   pastorchairmaker | Dec 16, 2008 10:29pm | #10

   God bless you Rob for your helpfulness.  This forum is pretty neat.  It kinda makes up for me living in the rural part of Upstate New York. 

   With me being a carver, the idea of building a lowboy with Queen Ann or claw and ball feet seems appealing.  I bought Glen Huey's Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture and I like what I see in his book.  

   I'll post some pictures of my Windsor chairs real soon.  I also recently enjoyed doing some carving on the knuckles of a Philadelphia high back.   

   Peace,

   Jim