I’m having a hard time visualizing what you want to do. Can you provide a sketch?
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Replies
mo,
If the configuration allows, crosscut at 90*, then run the piece on end along the fence instead of against the tabletop, with the blade leaned at complementary angle to your desired angle (90minus your angle). Only possible if the angled cut leaves an uncut section of endgrain to ride the table beside the angled blade, otherwise the newly cut pointy end (AND YOUR HAND) will fall/ be pulled into the slot beside the blade. To prevent this, you may be able to clamp or screw a batten to the piece being cut, to ride on top of the fence, stabilizing it after it's cut.
If you aren't far from 45*, a shim or block of appropriate thickness (better yet, a wedge, to support the whole thing) under the far end of the piece you are cutting will make up the difference, crosscutting with the blade leaned at 45*. Clamp the stock to the crosscut fence so it can't drop as the offcut is released at the end of the cut.
Ray Pine
Ray's advise is right on the money. Be sure that you follow his advise on attaching a batten to the back of the workpiece to make the cut safely.
Jim
Perhaps I don't get it, but what if you flip the board over and cut with the miter gauge and the stock on the other side of the blade? That is, use the reciprocal angle.
Edited 3/30/2007 1:45 pm ET by Samson
Hi, Eric,
One approach would be to cut a piece of scrap to about 20 or 30 degrees. Then set your cutoff sled or miter gage to an angle which, when added to the scrap piece, gives you the corrent angle. Beware of going to steep unless you carefully clamp the work piece.
Another way would be to make a simple jig with plywood or mdf. Attach a fence at the desired angle, clamp you work piece to the jig, and run it through in rip mode.
Either of these are pretty quick.
Good luck, Tom.
I should have stopped at DUH. I had some brain flatulence that made me think when trying to picture it in my mind that turning the board over and switching sides would get you the reciprocal of the 90 between the blade and the table, but it only gets you the reciprocal of the 180. That's why Ray, as usual is absolutely right. You need to turn the board only 90 to get the correct orientation. Man, I feel dumb today.
Edited 3/30/2007 2:21 pm ET by Samson
Erik, how many do you have to do? If it's only one couldn't you mark it with an adjustable bevel, a joiner's square and a knife? Then cut it with a handsaw.
An alternative might be to use a table saw and the adjustable mitre gauge with a bespoke 10º wedge like supplementary fence that allows the protractor to register up to 55º, i.e., 45º + 10º. On the other hand some of the cross cut gauges are supplied that are able to give you a 50º+ setting. Slainte.
Richard Jones Furniture
Richard, me lad,
Cut it with a handsaw? What kind of harebrained advice is that, with a perfectly good tablesaw sitting idle all the while?
Well I guess he could clamp the piece to the sawtable, whilst he's sawing it by hand...Lay the router on the off end for ballast, that'd help. Use the miterguage in lieu of a sliding tee bevel, for layout...Scribe the line with the blade from a biscuit joiner.
That slippery slope slants both ways, ya know.
Ray
Yeah Ray. It was a bit of a hare-brained suggestion now that I think about it.
I'll get ma coat............... Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture
Assuming the gentleman has a bandsaw that is what I would have used whilst the hares were chasing the brains, then cleaned up with not a special plane, even. Then again there is my trusty radial arm, which sits at 90°but makes use of an adjustable fence for angles.
Obviously I am not table saw oriented....Philip Marcou
Ray,
Come on man, you're holding back!
Now you've done it again, caused me to awaken the dogs with my laughter. Did you mean That slippery slope slaintes both ways, ya know.
Best Regards,
P.S. I sent email to Sir Lataxe a while back. No response.............Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
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