Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 15, 2009 07:57pm | #1

   It's also possible that a harsh (e.g., alkaline) cleaning agent has caused the finish to deteriorate. You might want to ask the owner what they clean it with, and if it turns out to be something nasty, tell them, "Don't do that."

   -Steve

    

1. 
   russellbriss | Apr 15, 2009 09:29pm | #3

   like- pledge....? i warned about that....

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 15, 2009 10:16pm | #5

   I don't think Pledge would do that (it's bad, but in different ways). I would think it would have to be something with ammonia, like Windex, or something similar. I don't know what general-purpose cleaners like Formula 409 and Fantastik have in them, but they might be problematic, too.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   integrity_woodworks | Apr 15, 2009 08:39pm | #2

   russellbriss,    if the white was from blushing(humidity) it should show right away. in the future if spraying in such conditions pick up some ,no- blush from Mohawk ,it works great but does add a bit of sheen.

   Do you have any pic,s? It sounds like your best option is stripping and refinishing. The only time whiting like this does not show right away, is when the stain was not fully dry before applying the clear coats.which generally shows within a week or so.Was the piece grain filled? Was the first of the three coats  lacquer sealer? When did the client first notice this problem? Have you tried wiping with a clothe that is (DAMP)with lacquer thinner,to see if the white dissipates before respraying?

   Dan

1. 
   russellbriss | Apr 15, 2009 09:32pm | #4

   yup- its not ghosting- its a crackled like area on most pieces ( solid) near the top- i had tried to sand and patch. rub with thinner , recoat, but it still "in " the finish
   I think it was first noticed 4-5 years after delivery.

1. 
   integrity_woodworks | Apr 15, 2009 10:48pm | #6

   Sounds (maybe) like the finish has dried out beyond that sort of repair, to bad you can not go back 4 0r 5 years!     Is it near forced heat? Well at least those cracks will let the paint remover get under the finish, making the removal process a little easier(most times).Denault paint remover is amazing stuff, put wear good gear and, an even better respirator /that is meant for such vapor. you  likely know this, but still worth saying .

   No pics'?

3. 
   hammer1 | Apr 16, 2009 05:53am | #7

   I'm feeling for you, Russell. There are a few things that may be your problem. Lacquer dries very fast on the surface of the film. Successive coats essentially melt into and activate previous coats. We have a tendency to apply the coats much too thickly. This can have the effect where the film acts as a separate entity from the work piece causing bad adhesion. While wood moves with moisture, a lacquer film can move with temperature. Lacquer isn't as flexible as some other finishes. It can craze from movement. It's also white, so when it cracks, either from crazing or a joint opening up, you see it very well.

   I'm guessing you put the lacquer on too thick, maybe too quickly. Unfilled mahogany also has some deep pores that can retain solvent. If it was unfilled. Stains may take longer to dry, particularly if there isn't much air flow. Did you use a sanding sealer or just the lacquer alone? Sanding sealers don't replace grain filler but they can help when you want to build up a film layer. You should be able to reduce the amount of lacquer you use on the finish with the sealer.

   I don't know of a way to save your finish. Pictures would certainly help to understand the extent of the problem. I would contact a tech person at Mohawk, at least to hope to understand what caused the issue. I've been successful stripping just an area but there have been other times when I've had to start over.

   Here's a pic of what I call crazing. It's nitrocellulose but on metal. I was a beautiful glossy black for 3 or 4 yrs. I tried to bury the decal in lacquer and it was subject to temperature extremes. It appeared after winter storage and got worse the next winter. I tried wiping with thinner, respraying, compounds, etc. I had to strip and start over, but not with lacquer.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   russellbriss | Apr 16, 2009 03:29pm | #8

   thanks- i did use a sanding sealer, without filling the wood- and the finish was very smooth- i'll see if i can go by and get a photo of the crazed area today- they may want to live with it as opposed to paying for refinishing the furniture.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 16, 2009 06:10pm | #9

   >> Lacquer isn't as flexible as some other finishes. It can craze from movement.All you said is very true. Lacquer, particularly a catalyzed lacquer frequently "crinkles" as it ages when too thick a film is applied. Manufacturers have specs on catalyzed lacquer as to film thickness. Also, the type of sanding sealer is generally important. Catalyzed lacquer may require a vinyl sanding sealer rather than a standard lacquer sanding sealer.Howie.........