Replies

1. 
   stevo1952 | Dec 20, 2009 10:25pm | #1

   What I do if I am attaching knobs or pulls is to drill the holes for those first. I then adjust the drawers to fit the cabinet the way I like them, then temporarily drive screws thru the front of the drawer into the drawer box. Then drill from the inside of the box into the drawer front with 4 or six screws as needed.

   Then remove the temp screws and drill thru for the pulls.

   Hope this helps.

   Stevo

2. 
   carpenter5 | Dec 20, 2009 11:10pm | #2

   Hey Tobias, can you attach a block under the bottom of the cabinet then working your way up using 1/8th thick strips as your spacers dry fit all of them using masking tape to keep them in place. Remember to number them in order, when you are happy wih the look and spacing take them off.

   Pre-drill your 4 holes for the screws you will be using to attach faces (remember to check the lenght of screw. Next, using your 1/8th spacers again drive only 2 of your screws (perpendicular) through the drawer enough to leave the point sticking out by an 1/8 th or more. Now place your front where you had it on the dry fit.Gently but firmly squeezing the front to the screw tips and holding it in place with your hand or a non maring clamp, drive the screws home. Repeat this on everyone, if you find you don't like the fit, you have a second chance with the othe two screws you have not used yet. Take your time, better to take longer on the first try and the dry fit than to have to re-do. I do it this way and get awesome results every time........ slow and steady wins the race. The spacing of your drawers is crucial to a professional finished look so take your time and enjoy your work.

   Carpenter5

3. 
   ring | Dec 20, 2009 11:58pm | #3

   There's any number of ways to
   There's any number of ways to skin this cat. You can use slightly oversized holes for the knobs and make adjustments, then add screws from the inside once it's perfect. In my shop the preferred method is to hold the front in place, have a helper push the whole thing out from the rear, and use a 23 gauge pinner from the inside to catch the drawer front in position. Verify, bend the pins slightly if necessary, then add the screws. If you're doing a very complicated set-up with lots of interrelated drawer faces, Blum makes an eccentric positioner that you set into the rear of the drawer face, and it can be used to adjust 3 mm in any direction. In any case, if you're using kitchen drawers like the Blum Tandems, you've got adjustments on the slides, both up-down and left-right.

4. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 21, 2009 12:30am | #4

   When I'm working by myself
   When I'm working by myself (and I'm almost always working by myself) I like to use double sided tape for this. The turner's tape is perfect, as it has good holding power. Stick the drawer front on, and press it in a little. Open the drawer, and drill and screw from the inside. Now, you can remove the screws, and take the tape off. Now, reattach using existing holes for lineup. Piece of cake.

   Jeff

1. 
   tobiasshadow | Dec 21, 2009 07:25am | #5

   You all are fabulous! After Christmas I'll go back to work.

   Thanks.

1. 
   tobiasshadow | Dec 28, 2009 09:44pm | #6

   I hope you three get to see this.. not sure how the new forum works yet. So I: used the temp screws through the drilled hole for the pull, found some double sided carpet tape to use and thought about the spacing but not much. Two of the four drawers are pretty tight-I'm planning on sanding them down a bit.

   So now I have four gorgeous drawers and one puzzle left. Why isn't the frame square so that the door simply fits? Oh well.. I'm planning on some gentle planing until I get the fit..

   Thanks

5. 
   GaryW | Dec 29, 2009 12:55pm | #7

   We use Titus or Amerock drawer front adjusters (Google "drawer front adjusters") to align fronts on drawer boxes. I prefer these 25mm diameter press-in adjusters over Blum's 20mm version, because they allow for a bit more adjustment.

   To use them, you drill two 25mm holes in the back of the front, insert a dowel center in each hole, position the front on the drawer box, and when you get it as close as possible, press on the front to leave center marks on the box. Then drill 3/16 holes through the center marks on the box , insert a #8 machine screws through the holes and into the adjusters, slightly tighten the screws, adjust the front, and then tighten the screws. When all the fronts are on and aligned perfectly, I lock them in place with two or more flat head wood screws in pre-drilled holes.

   To come by a proper sized dowel center, you may have to use the machinist's version, which they call a "blind hole spotter." You can find them at Shop Tools, Inc. I like one that's a bit smaller than the 25mm hole in the front so it's readily removed.

1. 
   tobiasshadow | Jan 09, 2010 07:07pm | #10

   Interesting - another option. I'll look for those adjusters..

6. 
   bones | Dec 31, 2009 03:23pm | #8

   If I understand you you want to make sure the front fits in the opening with the same gap around the sides. I do this with a deck of playing cards. They are of the same thickness and make the even space part easy. divide the same number of cards on the left/right top/bottom and wedge them in at each corner. Put double sidded tape on the back side and press the drawer up against it. Put a cople screws from the back or simply put some glue and press together. I use this method to set the doors in openings all the time. People see my deck of cards in my tool box and think I gamble in the shop. Good luck.

1. 
   tobiasshadow | Jan 09, 2010 07:06pm | #9

   Love it! Playing cards suggests a level of finesse I'm not sure I've got yet.

2. 
   GaryW | Jan 09, 2010 08:38pm | #11

   Cards sound good, or feeler gauges. We use 1/8" aluminum flat bar, because 1/8" is about the minimum reveal between doors when they're hung on European hinges, like Salice or Blum. If they're all drawers, then smaller reveals are likely.

1. 
   bones | Jan 09, 2010 08:57pm | #12

   I know it sounds wierd, but it works. They are the same thickness and you can easily divide and use as wedges. They are cheap as well.