I’ll be making some moulding from doug fir to match other moulding throughout my house that is also doug fir. Recently I made some windows from the same material and got some chip out–not too bad, however.
Anyway, I’ve been warned that moulding from doug fir will splinter when made w/ a router bit. Is there any advice on avoiding splintering of the wood?
Thanks.
Replies
When I router Douglas Fir I try to select some nice pieces of wood. Then I take light cuts going backwords and climb mill the pieces.
The snag-spintering-tearout phenomena is unique in DF and unpredictable.
Moreover, there is nothing you can do about it if you enounter a bad stick. You are wise to anticipate this. Bottomline: No advice.
Routs Everyday.
< Moreover, there is nothing you can do about it > Does this mean that you don't think climb-cutting will eliminate the problem? I may have to form a committee to find a new name for you to use if you answer wrong. ; ^)I am not sure i would recommend trying to climb-cut if you are using a tall cutter that has to be used with a table, and the work standing on edge with the face against the fence, but any that can be used where you hold the router by hand, this is what I would suggest doing. Beyond that, climb cutting needs more power due to the nature of the cut, and is not worth the effort with under powered motors. Also, use 1/2" shank bits, or those with the largest cutting circle that you can.
You can resolve most of the tearout with conscientious climb cuts.
But if the stock decides to unwind, (just peel away), you're stuck with scrap. That is worse than being struck x a crap cannon.
Moreover, it's spontaneous and unpredictable. A pity too, since it is great material.
I do appreciate, all woodworking must account for waste one way or another. This phenomena, regarded as a waste issue, is one I can deal with, (a don't-like however). So if'n the stock is dear and essential just buy 30+% more than necessary.
Have routed DF and turned some of it into furniture.
Prado ,
I have used quite a bit of DF over the years and depending on the grain VG or flatsawn hard or soft it is a challenge to machine and the splinters hurt .
GB has given good advice , start with a small bite or light cut and see what's up with each different piece, climb cutting with a light pass will help then go the final cut in the normal direction .
take it slow and easy dusty
If the molding is relatively narrow, you might try the new Freud quadra-cut bits. They're specifically made to reduce tear-out on end grain coped cuts, but I've found that the ogee I have gives a considerably better surface on just about any cut in any wood. Considering how long router bits have been around, this design was a stroke of brilliance on the part of a Freud engineer.
"quadracuts"??????
I'll look them up.Thanks to everyone who has responded.
Yeah - the newest thing in router bits - 4 cutters instead of 2 (anyone remember when "cut limited" was the newest thing?).
The Freud quadra-cuts are more than just 2 extra cutters. The geometry is designed so that 2 of the cutters cut on a slope such that the top edge of the workpiece is cut on a downward stroke, and that motion prevents the top edge from chipping or tearing out.
Prado,
The one thing that I would add to the list is to use zero clearance inserts on your fence to help support the stock and act as sort of a chip breaker for the router bit. That should go a long ways toward reducing chip out. I think others may have mentioned it previously but pay attention to the grain direction and try and route with the grain as much as possible.
Good luck,
Tom
I would make climb cuts (backward) in many very shallow passes. I mean many and I mean shallow !
Serge
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