Replies

1. 
   philip_r | Mar 19, 2009 07:06pm | #1

   First, let me say that I've never tried this before :0)

   I'd be afraid that using real end-grain banding would be too delicate.  To compensate, a person would have to cut it thicker... but then you would likely have problems with wood movement and destroy the entire piece... 

   If it were going in my house, I'd consider 1/4" banding... but I live in a dry climate and, with QSWO, I may be able to get away with it.  However, if I were making the piece for someone else or I didn't live in dry Colorado...

   1. Find some long-grain stock that has a grain pattern similar to end grain
   2. Edge band the ends and and stain them to simulate the darker end-grain

   or... some careful "creative" joinery and something similar to:

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50698&cat=1,46168,62157&ap=1

   Two final thoughts:

   1. How are you going to keep the plywood flat if you are only laminating one side with a veneer?  I would think that it would want to curl like a potato chip..?
   2. I'd be concerned about using a 5/16" thick veneer.  Even with QSWO, you'll get wood movement.  1/8" to 3/32" is as thick as I would go.

    

   
   

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   Edited 3/19/2009 12:18 pm ET by Tbagn

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 19, 2009 08:33pm | #4

   Thanks Tbag.. I did it yesterday and just wanted to see if others might come up with a better idea in case I am faced with it again. I simply rabbetted 1/2' off the ply 1" wide.. then cut 4" QSWO strips and rabbetted them to mesh with the ply rabbet. Glued the end strips on to give me 63" total surface with end grain showing.

   I have been advised about the veneer thickness being too thick so.. thanks.. So.. I will regroup using 1/16" veneer on top.. add another sheet of 1/4" laminated ply to the bottom.. then use 1/16" veneer to cover that so I end up with 1 1/4" total or there-abouts within a 1/16.

   Thanks again on mentioning the veneer thickness potentially causing a problem. I have never really used veneer before as I am a solid wood builder but the current economy has changed the way I normally do business. I have lots to learn about veneer it appears.

   Regards...

   Sarge..

   
1. 
   philip_r | Mar 19, 2009 09:29pm | #6

   You can always go to http://joewoodworker.com/articles.htm if you get in to trouble.  They have some pretty good info there.

1. 
   philip_r | Mar 19, 2009 10:03pm | #7

   Sarge, I know you are an accomplished WW and I only mention this because you mentioned that you have limited veneering experience. 

   There are a couple of things on http://joewoodworker.com/veneering/veneering-myths.htm that you should read up on.  Read myths: 3, 5, 6 and 8.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 19, 2009 11:31pm | #8

   Thanks for that site Tbag... My experience (what little I have) is not in the area of veneer and all info is helpful as basically I am a newbie in that department. Some things will carry over but some things probably won't as I have already found out. I had seen mention of that web-site some time ago but forgotten about it.

   I have much to do as my base finish has cured and ready for assembly. But... to-nite I will go over the site as it appears to be a wealth of information..

   Again... thanks a bunch for your assistance.

   Sarge..

2. 
   BG | Mar 19, 2009 07:20pm | #2

   Sarge,

   First of all I'd consider a laptop instead. That failing, I'd glue up some 1" thick oak end grain pieces sufficient to produce 1 1/2" wide strips. Then I'd biscuit the strips to the ply and glue them to the veneer. Then I'd go buy the laptop.

1. 
   philip_r | Mar 19, 2009 07:39pm | #3

   Then I'd use your laptop to cover the cracks where the solid wood broke your veneer apart... because it expanded 3/16" over the summer :0)

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 19, 2009 08:38pm | #5

   Laptop... I don't even have a cell-phone. I'm just a neander-thal I suppose. ha.. ha... ha.. ha..ha..

   Regards...

   Sarge.. 

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 20, 2009 02:30am | #9

   Your 5/16" "veneer" is too thick.  It will act like wood and will crack/delaminate and have other problems, even quartersawn has movement.  As was mentioned about 1/8" is the maximum for "veneer", and frankly 1/16" is really a lot better.  And, you MUST do both top and bottom equally.  For the edge grain edging, again no more than about 1/16".  You can't add an 1 1/2" bread board without constructing as a bread board.  Wood movement is the dominent reality in furniture design. 

   But frankly, I wouldn't be messing with all this plywood.  Just make it out of quartersawn oak.  Solid wood.  Figure out an hourly wage for cutting the veneer, laminating it to the plywood, etc. and you won't be paying yourself minimum wage in the effort to avoid paying for solid wood.  And, the solid wood top will be around for your grandchildren to fight over.   

4. 
   mrbird90 | Mar 20, 2009 02:31am | #10

   I recently had to duplicate some lumber core plywood so I dadoed the plywood plies 3/4" deep leaving the top and bottom veener, then I glued up several pieces of wood 24" wide by 8 inches long. Then I is sanded the board to the exact thickness between the veener plies using my 16/32 promax sander. Then I cut a 3/4" strip off the glued up board so that I had 24" of end grain and glued it in the dado. When it was done it looked like typical end grain of  solid wood. this should work for you too.