The subject says it all. A swift move in the shop landed two drops of 3-in-1 oil on the oak mailbox waiting for finishing. They’ve since bled along the grain into an area much bigger than the original drops.
So, what if anything can I do to minimize any effect this might have on any finish? I was considering gel stain with a coat of uv poly.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Adam
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Replies
Try using acetone to stop the progression. It may also help remove it but will take a few tries. Remember to use it in a well ventilated area!!!
Dampening a cloth with acetone or some other solvent and pressing it against the wood might "wick" out the oil - like getting a grease spot off clothes.Better try it on a piece of scrap first in case it helps spread the damage instead.
I'd just coat the whole thing in 3-in-1, call it a hand-rubbed oil finish, and move on to the next project!
Gatordoc
>just coat the whole thing in 3-in-1, call it a hand-rubbed oil finish, and move on to the next projectSweet !
Edited 11/11/2008 1:17 am by roc
And... it will be waterproof!
As they say, "Spew!" I like the way you think ;-)
I do know someone who, after careful research (one party to this is a PhD ME) used new Quaker State 10W-40 on the shingles of the one's ocean side house! This was at least 20 years ago, I don't know whether the performance/cost equation would balance out differently now.
I personally have never tried it but my good friend who is a gunsmith had showed me a trick for removing oil from wood (in this case - wooden stock for guns and rifles). He used a strong solution of disolved t.s.p. with water and a hot steam iron with a cloth soaked in the solution. Shortly after he 'ironed out' the oil from the wood, one would never have known there was any oil on it in the first place. Try it on a scrap piece first. After all... heat and water on a wood project sounds like disaster!
"I personally have never tried it but my good friend who is a gunsmith had showed me a trick for removing oil from wood (in this case - wooden stock for guns and rifles). He used a strong solution of disolved t.s.p. with water and a hot steam iron with a cloth soaked in the solution. Shortly after he 'ironed out' the oil from the wood, one would never have known there was any oil on it in the first place. Try it on a scrap piece first. After all... heat and water on a wood project sounds like disaster!"
Many Moons ago in my college days I was a house painter in the summer time. We used TSP to kill mildew on the siding before painting and its great stuff, but be careful with it it will burn you. Be sure to use rubber gloves rated for chemical use. I was working a job with lots of trees close to the house and was on a ladder cleaning the soffet (pardon the sp) and some of the stuff ran down the gloves on to my forearms and before I realized it it had left a nasty little chemical burn. I still keep a box around for tough cleanings and its great for grease spots on concreate. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Dear A,
Sham-wow???
There is a special absorbent material, such as "oil zorb" http://www.boatersworld.com/product/177870060.htm that are cheap, effective and will only absorb oil. I would suggest rubbing the oak or applying the material on the oak and laying some weight on and see if it will wick up.
Best,
John'
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