Replies

1. 
   Lataxe | May 10, 2008 10:46am | #1

   S,

   After reading various pieces of advice here in Knots and elsewhere I ended up doing these simple things with the cabinet scraper:

   1) Use a piece of ordinary printer paper slid under the sole of the scraper to raise it off a flat surface by a tidgy bit.  Then lower the blade to touch that same flat surface.  The blade will then stick out by that tidgy amount from the sole.

   2) Apply bend sufficient for the scraping job in hand.  This varies from "a little" (for awkward / very hard stuff to stuff already very flat and needing only a scratch or two removing) to "quite a bit" (to take a "thicker" shaving where the work piece can take it or to get down to tear out etcetera within a slight hollow).

   Lataxe

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 10, 2008 01:10pm | #2

   Lataxe.. You have finally found you calling! :>}

   I tend to agree but what the hell do I know! I have one of them wooden scraper bendie' things. I would guess it has it's place.. BUT! If you bent your steel by hand you can feel what is going on.. Although you may be just hardening the steel by the time you realize it (as in burnt your fingers), and it is really hard to file a new edge on it!

    

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 10, 2008 01:33pm | #3

   Lataxe,

   I must add tidgy to my woodworking dictionary.  You have the remarkable ability to come up with just the right word to describe a previously unknown and it's a lot more fun to say than smidgeon, skosh or hair.

   :-)

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 10, 2008 03:18pm | #4

   I must add tidgy to my woodworking dictionary.

    took out all the cuss words and after that I was not really sure ifthge posters were really serious!

2. 
   Sean2112 | May 11, 2008 04:47am | #5

   Seajai-
   I set mine to cut smoothly in the material I am using. Sometimes a deep cut is okay, sometimes I need to bow the blade alot to get wispy smooth shavings. I simply adjust the blade to suit the wood.
   Regards,
   Sean

3. 
   flairwoodworks | May 11, 2008 06:01am | #6

   I usually set mine by placing the body sole down on a flat surface and dropping in the scraper blade (bevel facing backwards, of course), and clamping it in place.  Then I set the camber to control the depth of cut.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

4. 
   saschafer | May 12, 2008 03:12am | #7

   I do the same thing as Chris-at-flair. (I have the Lee Valley version.) I set the sole flat on a board, drop the blade in so that the edge touches the board, then tighten it. It doesn't start cutting until I add a little bit of bow. I tweak the amount of bow as required for the type of wood, what I'm trying to achieve, etc.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | May 12, 2008 08:45pm | #8

   Speaking of Stanley 80s, I have two, one with no blade,and one with a nealy used up Stanley blade.  Does anyone know what aftermarket blades work in 80s?

    

   Joe

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 12, 2008 09:21pm | #9

   Joe,

   Not sure but I wonder if the Veritas replacement blade would work.  Might want to give them a call.

   http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=143

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   JohnWW | May 12, 2008 11:29pm | #10

   Hock sells a replacement blade: http://www.hocktools.com/products.htm John White

3. 
   gdblake | May 14, 2008 03:47pm | #11

   You can also order either the Hock replacement or a Stanley blade from Highland Woodworking.  Their website is http://www.highlandwoodworking.com.