Replies

1. 
   galenajoe | Aug 10, 2005 11:06pm | #1

   I have one. It works fine. I don't know exactly how deep a dado it will cut but it's done everything I've wanted it to do.

    

   Joe

1. 
   Dagwood | Aug 10, 2005 11:43pm | #2

   Thanks Joe!View Image

2. 
   JohnWW | Aug 10, 2005 11:46pm | #3

   Ten inch dado sets are rare or nonexistent, 8 inch dadoes are the standard for a ten inch saw.  Most saws wouldn't have the power needed for a ten inch dado set.

   John W.

3. 
   Walker1 | Aug 10, 2005 11:59pm | #4

       An  8 in. Dado blade set is the correct size to run in a table saw designed for a 10in. blade.

                   Cheers.                               Walker1

4. 
   DougU | Aug 11, 2005 12:03am | #5

   Dagwood

   I don't think I'd want to put a 10" dado in my saw. Its fairly standard practice to use an 8" dado in a 10" saw.

   Doug

5. 
   charlesm | Aug 11, 2005 12:10am | #6

   You need to consult the saw's user's manual or contact the saw manufacturer for correct dado size to use. Some saws will not accept a dado, some will take no larger than 6" and all have width limitations. If it is okay to run an 8" set the depth of cut will be 1" less than you get with a 10" blade (for a 6" dado you will get 2" less depth than with a 10" blade).

   Charles M
   Freud America, Inc

1. 
   Dagwood | Aug 11, 2005 12:31am | #7

   Thanks for all the info guys. I am very new to this (as you can already tell) I knew the brand name and figured it was worth buying.

   I will further research the capacities and limitations of the saw.

   DagwoodView Image

6. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2005 01:14am | #8

   You got the skinny already, but just to emphasize, I use a Freud 6" dado in my ol' blue Jet contractor saw.  An 8" will give you more depth of cut but take some more power to run.  So....did you get a good deal?!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Dagwood | Aug 11, 2005 05:17am | #9

   I think so - $75 CDN.

   Thanks for the infoView Image

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2005 06:56am | #10

   Wow!  I'd say!  Good job.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   MichaelPB | Aug 11, 2005 08:07am | #11

   So, what size dado set do you use in an 8" table saw?

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2005 08:17am | #12

   "... what size dado set do you use in an 8" table saw?"  Whatever fits.  Actually, I bought an 8" table saw once -- an old, old Craftsman with no motor, but the cast iron wings, fence, the whole bit.  Sold it on eBay to someone back east.  Cost a fortune in shipping!

   I can't tell if you're serious, or gettin' in a dig (I've been a bit under fire lately, if you didn't know), but the thing about dado sets is they pack alot of mass, so you don't necessarily want the biggest darned thing you can fit on the arbor.  I'm most comfortable with a 6" dado on my Jet saw, which has a 1.5HP motor.  I'm sure it would handle an 8", but I don't see a need for that kind of cutting capacity.  Some people have asked about putting a full-sized dado set on a benchtop saw -- even if it fits, that kind of mass spinning around on a light arbor/bearing set-up, using a small motor, doesn't seem like a good idea to moi.  Same with an old saw like mine that has significant mileage on the bearings.

   I'd love to know how many people who bought an 8" dado set actually use the additional capacity it provides over a 6" set.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   charlesm | Aug 11, 2005 03:31pm | #13

   Hi Jamie,Your points about dado size are excellent. The primary argument I hear for using the largest dado possible is to make up for the depth lost when using a dado sled. I guess there are those that use thick wood for the base of their sled and must use a larger dado to get the depth of cut they require. While the mass of the dado is an important consideration, the amount of torque required to push it is even more important. An 8" dado requires 33% more power to push it than a 6" so for saws less than 2hp that can make a big difference. Again, the saw manufacturer is the definitive source for determining the correct dado size to use.Charles M
   Freud America, Inc.

3. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2005 08:45pm | #16

   "there are those that use thick wood for the base of their sled and must use a larger dado to get the depth of cut they require."  Wow, I never thought about that.  Thanks for solving the mystery!

   BTW, my nickle will be in your paycheck in a month or two.  Picked up the miter saw blade on Tuesday.  Haven't tried it yet though.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   DonStephan | Aug 20, 2005 02:58am | #18

   Another factor - I would expect an 8" dado set to have more teeth than a 6", and therefore go longer between sharpenings.

5. 
   MichaelPB | Aug 11, 2005 06:08pm | #14

   Forestgirl,

   That is exactly the little saw I have, has features not found on todays saws like a vernier adjustable fence and an accurate blade height gauge.   As you said, the saw is heavy, mine without extensions or base weighs in at almost 75 lbs despite its diminutive size.  

   I have wanted one of these forever because my shop was quite small but I just moved and have twice the space I used to have so my 10" saw can actually fit inside my shop instead of sitting under a tarp.

   http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=461

7. 
   ~~Hammer1 | Aug 11, 2005 07:35pm | #15

   In general, you seldom use dadoes to the full depth of the cut. Although they are not common, I have a set of 14" stack dadoes from Simonds. The arbor on my 14" Delta saw is replaceable and I can stack dadoes up to 2 1/4" in width. It would be very rare that I would need that much of a cut. I do the majority of my dado work on a 10" saw with 8" dadoes. The maximum width of my Freud set is 13/16". The blades actually measure 8 1/8" which gives me a maximum depth of cut at 2 5/16". A blade may say 10" but not all are 10". One of my unsharpened Freud blades only measures 9 13/16" and I can get a depth of cut at 3 1/8". One of my Systematic blades measures a full 10" so I can get 3 1/4".

   Most of the dadoes I cut are 1/4" - 3/8" in depth and vary from 1/4" - 3/4" in width. There are exceptions when half lapping thick stock or rabbeting door jambs, for example. If your saw is straining, overheating, blowing the reset or a breaker with a dado, due to extra wide or deep cuts, you can always reduce the stacking and the depth of cut, making multiple cuts to achieve the needed size.

   Most of the safety issues concerning dadoes are similar to other table saw uses. Dadoes are not meant for through cuts. This means you will have to remove splitters and rear mounted blade guards. When you mount the dadoes, there is an outside and an inside blade, these are marked as such and the tooth configuration may also be identifiable. With carbide tips, you want to make sure that the tips don't touch the tips of the adjoining blade or center chippers. When you stack up the chippers, you should position them so that they are equally distributed around the arbor, this will help to balance the stack.

   You need to be careful that your work piece does not move and pinch on the dadoes causing kick back. Making sure that the saw is tuned correctly and your piece stays tight to the fence is very important. Dado blades are best used with and close to the fence or with a sled. Any process that cannot be fully controlled should not be done with the dadoes. I would not try to crosscut a dado in the center 12"x48" cabinet top with the fence for instance. If you are making edge rabbets for a cabinet back or something similar, You can add a sacrificial fence and raise the dadoes into it slightly. Make sure you remove the sacrificial fence when doing other work or it may catch on the cut out. Since the blades are below the work, make sure your hands are not in line with the blades. Clamp your work to the sled or keep your eye on the fence and make sure you unplug the saw when changing the blades.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2005 08:50pm | #17

   You are hereby bookmarked!  Thanks for that excellent info Hammer.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

8. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 21, 2005 07:04pm | #19

   8" Dado in 10" saw? Gee my weddin' night??

9. 
   8quarter | Aug 21, 2005 08:32pm | #20

   8 inche dadoes are all right in most contractor saws and unisaw types. But not so good in Jobsite 10" saws. Especially the smaller ones. . Especially the small delta. They have a tendency to destroy the saw. DAMHIKT :)
   My ryobi BT-3000 which I use as a jobsite saw recommends 6".