I am about to start a hope chest for a customer’s granddaughter. In the past I have used mitered corners and biscuits. I want to try a 45* miter lock corner, don’t know how it will come out, can always go back to biscuits.
Here is my problem: When I miter the boards, I get some burn, no matter what blade I use (rip, crosscut). I use a sled, and accuracy or board movement are not problems.
The wood is white pine, table saw is a 3h.p. 3 belt cabinet, blades are sharp.
This burn doesn’t show, but I am wondering hot to eliminate it.
Thanks to all in advance!
Pete
Replies
It may be that your sled is not exactly square with the blade.
Do you get a lot of dust thrown back at you?
If you are square, you could try DriCote® Lubricant to reduce friction and remember to always keep moving through the cut.
Another solution to taking off the burn is to shoot it once with a hand plane and shooting board.
Good luck!
I will check my alignment, and should be using handplane and shooting board anyway (as a routine step, not as a "fix-it").
Thanks!
Pete
I think Pete gave you good advice. I am a power tool woodworker (I do use my hand tools such as planes when I need them).
I have a so called JUNK tablesaw (I think far from junk) and I can cut some 'sticks' without any burn at all... I can take another stick of the same wood type and get a few 'burns'.. I would think that the wood that 'burned' a bit had something to do with, what I call, reaction wood that pinched the blade..
But what does this old woodworker know? I'd say alot and then again nothing....
Pete,
It would be my guess since you are using pine that the cut is closing on the blade and pinching it. I would cut the pieces a little long (1/16 to 1/8" each end) and then trim to the final length cutting of any burn that you may have. If it still burns doing it the way then you more than likely have some issues with alignment of your sled and possibly rubbing the back of the blade.
Good luck, Bret
Bret,
As I said to the previous poster, I will check the alignment and. And use the handplane/shooting board as a specific step.
Thanks, Pete
should not be needed
You should be able to produce usable miters straight from the table saw. If I tried to hand plane my miters I would just make a mess of them.
Bret
Bret,
I guess that I misunderstood you. Are you suggesting that I "rerun" the slightly overlength piece down the sawblade, taking a fine shaving off?
I had not thought of this, will try.
Thanks again, Pete
Iron Miter Plane
You could always get a new tool for your new project :-)
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=9
new tool
Yes!
When I win the lottery!
And I do not gamble.
Thanks.
Pete
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