Hello
I was wondering if you might have a tip or two regarding
” rehandling” a Stanley 45.
1. How are the “pins” removed ? (most gracefully)
2. what would constitute a suitable replacement for the pins ?
3. The pin on the adjuster, does anyone know if this
can be pressed out ?
Thanx
Al
Edited 5/12/2008 3:35 pm ET by urbman
Replies
Al, I have replaced the cutter adjustment pin on a very clean #45 that I picked up for $25 with IIRC a short 1/16" roll pin . I can measure one of mine in the next few days and advise you for sure. Be careful extend the screw out almost as far as it will go not letting it bear or bottom out on the cast iron post that it's threaded thru. Put the screw end flat on a steel block while balancing the plane body -putting no stress on that cast post- and while holding the roll pin in a small needle nose pliers tap it firmly into the hole with a small ball peen hammer. YES YOU NEED THREE HANDS or you must be very aigle. Once it's in the hole to the other side( I hope you paid attention and put it into the right side of the screw post cause its a bummer trying to drive it in backwards -too far to go)* set it over a slot in a cutter on the steel block and tap it till it hits the block. then put a business card as a spacer on the top of the cutter and tap again to get the pin sticking out the left side enough to properly engage a cutter slot. You will have excess pin on the right side but don't fool with it as those roll pins (also called spring pins as they spring closed about half a thousandth to stay tight) as they are hardened and blued.
The tote handle I have never done -yet- but the is a super book by MR. 45 whose name is on the tip of my tongue. A little research or some knotter may know will dig him up. Send him an email, he used to sell on EBay as STN45 IIRC and was a good guy. Maybe Mr. Leech knows from Superior tool aka Stanley Blood & Guts- another good guy. I know that the tote pins drive out with a good pin punch (don't try a soft cut off nail). I apologize for the ranting cautions but I don't know your skill level, so I played it safe. Paddy
* I have done several pins and with the first on I neatly removed the screw, took off the threaded adjusting wheel and neatly drove that sucker in the left side of the screw - stacked up cutters taped together and then drove it to the correct length on the left side. Think I was pi$$ed? Not by half when I realized that with the pin in place the wheel doesn't go on or the screw can't be inserted in the plane body. ha ha ha. So I let out a string of oaths that have never been heard in church and did it all over again --now where did I put that tiny pin punch? pfh
Edited 5/12/2008 5:34 pm ET by PADDYDAHAT
Thanks Paddy
I have a collection of roll pins some decent pin punches and a
a set of machinist punches. My worry is that the pins
in the handle might be tapered pins or even shoulder pins.
Sooo... It would be good to know which way they have to go
to get them out :-)Sounds like the adjuster pin is merely a PIA workholding problem.
Thanks for the warning about the brain fart. I have made some elegant
setups only to find out that when I turned something upside
down I failed to account for the part inversion. I believe
I may have expanded the number of ways one can combine expletives :-)
I'd get a set of good roll pin punches. What I call them! Like a punch wth a guide pin! They cannot be replaced by anything better! And they are not that expensive.. Yes you can get them in Inch or MM!
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