Hi,
I am trying to decide between purchasing a 3hp or 2hp plunge router. I have a 3 hp milwaukee which I keep underneath my router table. My smaller 690 PC I use for cutting profiles. I will be using this router for cutting mortises not edge profiling. Is a 2hp router capable of cutting deep mortises in cherry, birch and maple? Maybe I’m better off going with the router with the more amperage. But if it’s too heavy to handle I might be better off buying the 2hp.
I was leaning towards purchasing the Dewalt 621 plunge router until I came across the Makita 3 1/2 hp v/s W/LED L Model RP 2301 FC for $339.00. Not much in the price difference. I was also considering the Dewalt 625 3hp.
How does the Makita 3 1/2 plunge router stack up? If I’m not mistaken the Makita router has a longer plunge depth of cut. Not sure if it comes with 2 wrenches or not like my Milwaukee. I prefer routers that use wrenches to tighten collets. Not so sure about those spindle locks. Doesn’t take anytime at all to change bits using the 2 wrenches. I don’t have to worry about the bit coming lose.
What router has the better fence system?
Wanda
Replies
DeWalts'
Putting the Festool 1200 aside, Great router. I put the DeWalt 621 up there as a great bench router along with the DW 625 which has more guts and weight. When you think about it a router weighs "Nothing" when sitting on the project, the only effort needed is what it takes to slide it. So I prefer the DW625 for working on jigs and when following templates. The weight keeps the vibrations down, and a more stable platform. The smoothness of the DW plunge routers is comparable to Festool also. Smooth sweet plunging. Not to worry about the spindle locks on the DW's. I love the one wrench feature. Even Festool uses only one wrench. No knowledge of the Makita.
DW fences. They did their home work. One fence fits ALL of their routers. And the adjustments arn't too bad. And better yet ! I f you have two of them, you can stack them on the supplied bars face to face and use them as a fluting jig or plough dados with the stock trapped between them.
It's hard for me to imagine a decent 11-13 amp router not being able to handle mortises, plus I'd think a 15 amp router would get mighty heavy. Using a bit that's sharp and clean will have a big impact on how well any router handles the task. I'd add the Milwaukee 5615 or 5616 to your list of considerations.
Hi guys,
I went in to my local tool supply shop today to check out the DW625 and while I was there I also got my hands on the Makita model #RP2301FC... omg! This has larger ball bearings and labyrinth type retainers and fan that prevents dust from entering the tool (according to the specs) But what I found so impressive was the plunge action. MY GOD! I've never experienced anything like it. The linear bearing in slide mechanism allows for EXTREMELY SMOOTH plunge action. You've got to try it to believe it. you can plunge using one finger. I had to use a lot more force to plunge using the DW 625. Took a lot more effort. However I am not too thrilled with the lock levers (plunge release lever) on either router. The on/off switch on the DW is awkward. If you are holding on to the handle you have to stretch over with your thumb to slide the switch to the on position. Very clumsy. I found that very disappointing. The on/off switch on the makita was located in the handle. which has a trigger switch with lock off button or safety. Not sure if an LED light is much of an advantage when it comes to plunge routers or not.
This new router comes with a hefty price. $ 449 Canadian vs $329 for the DW625 Would be nice if the Makita came with a fence as part of it's standard equipment. How miserly!
I bet I could probably get a good deal on a Makita 3612C plunge router. which is a powerful production style router. Unfortunately, it doesn't have the same collet capacity. The Makita has a capacity of 2 3/4" while the DW has only 2 3/8" Since I'm no expert when it comes to Plunge routers I don't know if that's significant or not.
Just wondering if anyone here at the form has any experience with either the Makita 3612C or the Makita RP2301FC. I had a chance to buy the 3612C last year but decided to buy a Milwaukee fixed router instead for my router table. I've been saving for a dedicated plunge for mts. $449 is a lot of money to shell out for a plunge router. But I guess you pay for quality.. my god that's probably enough to buy a bench top mortising machine for all I know.
Wanda
Plunging vs slicing
Wanda,
I do a fair bit of mortising with Leigh jigs and they recommend plunging to remove as much material as possible before cleaning out the sides of the mortise. Since the number of plunges will almost always exceed the number of slicing passes, the router with the smoothest plunge action, all other things being equal (bit sharpness, feed rate, wood hardness, etc) should be preferred. I still use an Elu 3338 and its 12 amp motor has more than enough power for the woods you intend to work. As you plan to use your router for mortising, almost always a guided operation, lighting and 2 3/8" vs 2 3/4" bit diameters are not decision making features. Most likely the largest upcut spiral bit you will use is 1/2" diameter. Larger diameter grooves and dados, also guided operations, will likely employ straight, bottom cleaning bits generally well less than 2" diameter. I have no experience with either of the Makita routers you mentioned but I was impressed with your sensitivity to the plunge action of the Makita compared to the DW (decendent via several owners of the Elu). Since you are going to plunge more than slice you should follow your instincts and go with the smoothest plunge action in the ~2, 2 1/4 hp and price range. A 1" deep mortise cut in four 1/4" plunge, slice sequences presents very little stress to a well made router with a sharp, upcut spiral bit and feed rate that doesn't slow down the router.
Another thing to consider is integrated dust collection as on the DW621 and others. Most mortising operations require cleaning out the cavity at each depth of cut. The jig mounted evacuation on the Leigh FMT solves that problem but I have to stop and clean up each blind mortise using the Leigh MMT.
Regis
Hey there, I have a DW625 and have been pleased with it I think it is very nice especially for the price, the collets are very good and the soft start feature is good. I don't know about the Makita. I do use it both in my router table and as a hand held pulnge router and have had no problems.
Good luck
Troy
On the face of it, router morticing looks power intensive/demanding.
& it turns out that it is! The cutter is cutting on both sides & the bottom of its pathway; what could be more demanding?
Well, x default, if you over drive the cutter you'll break or burn it and spoil the walls of the mortice.
So what's the deal?
A plunger can take as little as a 1/16/pass and in seconds ( and might have to in light of the stress issues). 10 passes in <1' will get you an inch of mortice depth, saving cutter stress, armature heat build up, & lend kindliness to the mortice walls.
So? So you don't need power to mortice; 1 HP is plenty with a sharp cutter.
More on this:
http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html
I used a friend's Makita 3612 to rout my first set raised panel doors. It did a great job with the Freud 2+2 bit set, and ran like a champ. No experience with the plunge for it....I imagine any 15 amp router will be heavy for hand use. FWIW, I ended up buying a fixed base Milwaukee 5625...it's also a beast and I've been pleased with it.
If you have to take advice, follow Pat's link.
I have not made a mortice with any of my routers, don't have a Makita router, but my other Makita tools are very well made.
Don
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