Hi All,
I have an antique door to hang and I find it’s a bit skewed and the edges need to be cleaned up. I have a good Delta Contractors 10″ with a 30″ Biesmeyer on the job site. I’m not having any luck with a shop that will trim it to my specs while I watch and it’s a one of a kind so I’m not leving it.
So..Is there any tricks top getting an extra few inches off the 30″ TS?
I didn’t think so but was worth the post.
Thanks,
Warren
Replies
If it were me, I'd use a good circular saw with a straight edge saw guide to get close to the final cut, and then clean it up with a hand plane. How close "Get close" is depends on how well tuned and how sharp your circular saw is.
If your table saw does not have extension wings, you should also be wary of scratching the door as it hangs over the edges of the saw!
Good luck!
Paul
Paul is right on. trim it with a circular saw using a zero clearance guide (takes 15 minutes to make) and there will be no tearout. I would then smooth it with a power plane, but use what you have. Even with a big unisaw in the shop I would use a circ saw.
Mike
Whatrix,
Easiest is a circular saw, as advised, provided the door is not too thick.
If you cannot get your hands on a circular saw, you can cut this on your table saw though, with someone helping you. You mark the 36" cut, align the cut mark with the blade and clamp a strip, 2" x 2" more or less, on the edge of the door, where the door hangs over the table. The strip acts as a guide, running against the edge of the table. Obviously, you don't use the fence.
Willie
Whatrix,
Necessity the mother of invention.... Just a little outside the box regarding the other answer's. I'd be tempted to tackle this with a 1/2" router, a sharp 2"x1/2" cutter, a good firm straight edge and a couple of trusty clamps. I guess ya know the rest...
Centreline the door, measure out from the centerline to the finished size. Take the router (unplugged) measure from the cutter tip to the outside of the router base (if the router has a flat edge to the base, you'd be best to measure to that).
Subtract the resulting figure from the desired finished size as marked on the door. Set up your straight edge to the 'new' mark, clamp it good and tight. Route away, gently against the straight edge (avoids bowing the straight edge in the center of the run). Do remembering to run the router contiguous with the point at which you originally measured 'cutter tip to router outer base edge' (many routers do not have a base that is concentric with the bit) Take the waste out in four our five runs. Do it slowly but not so's you'll burn the wood and you will end up with an acceptable finish
Have fun Iain
Old School:
Mark the cut line on both sides of the door. Heavily cut along a straight edge on the line, going 1/8" deep or more. Remove the waste as close to the line as possible, using either a skill-saw (with small fence optional) or a hand saw, or even a tablesaw with batten clamped into place and the finished surface protected from scratching, trueing the cut exactly to the line with a hand plane. A slight swinging clearance can ease door operation, especially if it engages conventional weatherstripping.
John in Texas
Circular saw and guide with clamps. One other thing I would do is score the line with a sharp knife to prevent tearout
Cheers
Mac
Only the lead dog's view changes
Other than those already mentioned, I'd consider 2 options; make a large panel cutter, or (depending on how much needs to be removed) use a sharp hand plane with a suitable shooting board...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
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