I have a garage shop, I have added two 220 volt breakers with outlets near the breaker box. I have two extension cords plugged into them. One is dedicated to my dust collector and the other I use for my Bandsaw, Tablesaw and Planer which are all wired for 220. My question is, does anyone make a splitter for extension cords for 220 with three outlets? They make ’em for 110. I get tired of having to unplug my table saw and plug in my bandsaw and planer and vice versa. I only use one at a time. I suppose it would be simple to wire one up but I’m feeling kinda lazy lately.
Thanks for any help!
Replies
Here's one, but grab your wallet!
http://www.softmart.com/products/details.asp?itemID=5629340&source=googlebase
I did something similar but just wired some 12/2 on one breaker and added a couple of outlets since one is dedicated to the DC and I will never use more than one machine at a time.
...Advice is a form of nostalgia. Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off , painting over the ugly parts, and recycling it for more than it’s worth – lyrics from the song wear sunscreen
Bet your not that lazy after seeing that $199.00 price tag. I just wired up my own. It's not that difficult. Just don't try and run two machines at once. I actually have a duplex 220 outlet that I bought at Home Depot some years ago when they did have them. They obviously don't supply them any longer for safety reasons. So get out your wire strippers and get to work!
Grainger has the same Y connector for $30!
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1AUL9?Pid=searchI guess they don't sell to the US Government!Thanks for the input though......
This one won't work for normal household or shop 220 outlets as it has the funky twist plug, that you'd have to match all your machine cords with. Not really what your looking for!
I don't know that there is a normal shop 220 outlet. There are several types and sizes. The twist loc is probably as normal as any. I use it in my shop as they make it for thirty amps which I use for a couple tools. I have the bad habit of moving the tool and then remembering to unplug it. Some times I don't twist the plug in and haven't had the problem with tearing the receptacle out of the wall yet. Knock on wood. It does have the advantage on not just falling out of the socket though.
Yes, there are 3 or 4 standard twist-lock plugs, but if you look carefully, each has a different amperage rating, depending on the wiring from the breaker to the outlet. Except for very rare occasions, I believe a 20 amp twist lock plug should cover all needs. (20 amp 220 Volt would be the equivelant of 40 amp 110 volt)
Bottom line, one size plug should be all you need in your shop.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
Yes thank you for all that info on 220 outlets and power strips. In my shop I have a combination of the very large 50 Amp three prong outlets and plugs and the smaller single 20amp plugs and outlets. I only used the large 50 amp one because they were given to me. And I've made my own power strips to accommodate each size.I too like you don't like to have to plug and unplug each tool when switching tool use. When I built my shop I put in a good number of 220 outlets , but now I wished I would have put in a few more with a few less 110 outlets. Haven't used any of the twist kind yet, probably because the regular 220 single 20 amp ones are less expensive. I converted all my stand alone tools to 220, if they didn't already come that way, except my 13" planer and one of my miter saws, so I could take them to job sites.
Edited 12/5/2009 12:20 am ET by brownman
Use the appropriate nema plug for the current draw. If only 20a then you can use Like I do the L620 plug (|-) plug. If you need 30A the use the appropriate plug. Also remember that the wire needs to match the plug. If it's 20A, a 12awg wire will do, but 30A is a bump up to the 10Awg. (sorry, I know I'm probably going to trigger one of those thicker is better in wire debates)...Advice is a form of nostalgia. Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off , painting over the ugly parts, and recycling it for more than it’s worth – lyrics from the song wear sunscreen
I agree with you bones. All my 220 20 amp draws are 10 or 12 gauge cords with 20 amp 250 Volt outlets, except my 30 amp draw wide belt sander. It's actually on a cord that's thicker than 10 gauge, maybe 8 gauge, as I said, only because I got it for free. The plug on this one is the big 50 amp three prong one. I guess I'm Ok as long as I don't use a plug, cord or outlet that's rated less than 30 amps. Of course when I wired my shop I ran 10 gauge for all my 220 outlets.
One thing I noticed on my wide belt sander is that the amp gauge on the sander registers a draw of nearly 100 amps on start up , which doesn't trip the breaker. I have since learned that most larger motors do require an initial draw of power, well over the normal Amp draw which is required to run the motor, for start up. I always wondered why this initial start up draw doesn't trip the breaker. I'm only guessing that the motor start capacitor has something to do with preventing this.
If you look at the tag/specs on a motor you will see- "amperage 23/14" . The 23 reresents the start up draw required to get the motor from a dead stand still up to running speed. And the 14 is the running amps without a load on the motor.
If a electrician asks you how many amps you need to a plug. He is looking for the "full load amperage" or "FLA".
I think I stated that correctly, I'm not a electrician by any means. Just been working with them for too long.
Taigert
I don't think that is correct, sir.
On a dual voltage motor, (110/220), the first amp number is the full load amps, (FLA), at 110 V. The second, FLA at 220 V. The FLA will always be more at 110 V than at 220 V.
From the code letter on the motor name plate one can calculate the maximum "inrush" current, (starting current). A rule of thumb is 6 to 10 time FLA.
Regards,
Fred
I think that all capacitor start motors have an initial amperage draw of several times as when it is running full speed. The breaker is designed with a feature to allow more than rated amps for a moment while the motor starts. If however, the high amperage continues, the breaker should trip. This over amperage period is short enough that the wiring does not have enough time to over heat and do damage.
Edited 12/5/2009 8:52 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Ok, then that makes sense. Thank You!
Brownman,
I think you will find that the plug pattern is determend by amperage. 15, 20, 30......... are different patterns. Just food for thought.
Taigert
There are several different 220 voly plugs, ranging from straight pins to various size twist locks, all depending on the amperage of the line. If you can't easily (cheaply) find one, it's quite easy to make your own. All the 'stuff' you need can be found at your local big box store or better yet, really help the economy and get the parts from your local hardware store.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
Like other response, I run DC plus one other machine at any given time. Like you, the DC is way over there, with its own receptacle. The others all kinda hang out together. I just put in one metal box with 220/220 duplex, and ran wires out in series to a second box with 110/220 dual voltage receptacle.
You might take a look online at amazon.co.uk or any electrical sites in the UK. 220 is our norm and there are plenty of extension cords, plugs etc. available over here. A browse of European sites, woodworking, electrical etc. might give you an answer.
Great idea! Thanks to everybody for their input and ideas. Here's another place that carries a lot of extension cords.
http://WWW.AMERICORD.COM
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