Just in case anybody is considering this machine. I helped a friend uncrate and assemble his new Grizzley jointer the other night. Both the ground and painted finishes are beautiful. The table, fence and knive settings were all right on the money. The 4 knive cutterhead made perfect 6′ edge joints on 6/4 walnut right out of the box.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0586
I went home a threw a rock at my 6″ Delta jointer.
John O’Connell – JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change …
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
Replies
Thanks for the note. I have been looking at the Griz jointers. Just curious why he went with the 4 knive version over a spiral head.
$340. Plus he probably saw the recent test in FWW where the spiral cutterhead didn't seem to really make a difference.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
well....... i'm in i just ordered one i live on long island what the wait on shipping ?? did the truck have a lift gate?? i'm having buyers angst right now ... my rockwell 6" i inherited from my grandfather and was always faithful to me, but to small. i hoping good thoughts....... thanks
..
Let us know how you like it.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
Actually....... after ruminating on it for a day , i upgraded to the
GO490 for i think for an extra 80.00 . i thought that machine had more to it . i like the parallellogram construction, the fence was more substantial, and the size of the bed. The downside is the weight, but there are built in rollers for ease of movement. i'm have a little angst, . i bought up the idea of purchasing a grizzly product to a local tool warehouse salesman and poo-poo 'ed it . something about they skipping a step (??) at the foundry. which i found a pretty flimsy, because if memory serves they all come the same foundry. so time will tell, i guess i'm a bit of sap i'm still trying to understand where a powermatic 8" is almost double the price. with the almost same fit and finish?? if i'm not draining my bank account, there's something wrong with it..." we judge ourselves by our motives, and others by their actions........."
Edited 2/11/2006 8:22 pm ET by alias
I received the G0586 a week ago. Set it up and got it running last weekend. Very nice machine for the money. Castings very fine and set-up was perfect. The only thing poor about this machine is the V-belts. Junk. Machine cuts perfectly with the standard cutterhead. Tried mahogany, white oak, and hard maple and all were milled perfectly. First Grizzly and probably not the last.
Just curious- what was wrong with the belts? How would "better" belts make a difference? Are there belts you'd recommend? Why? Kind of strange that a manufacturer would spend so much money on castings, only to economize on belts.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
The best way to descibe the symptom is VIBRATION ! The vibration can be felt completely through the machine. It does not affect the cut quality, but I am more concerned with the motor and cutter head bearing life. The belts have bulges at the seam and do not lay flat when laying on their side on a flat surface. When the belts are tracking on the pullies they wobble from side to side. I checked the pulley allignment and alligned them perfectly.This is not an easy task on this machine because of the close clearances. I called Grizzly for replacements and they are on back-order. I will try the replacements first, but if that does not work I will replace them with link belts. If someone chooses to go this route, be aware they are not standard half inch belts, they are three eighths wide. The only place I have been able to locate them are at Grizzly. Figures.
I use link belts on all my machines. When I saw the poor quality of the supplied belts for my G0543 jointer I just used link belts. They also use (2) 3/8" wide (3L) belts on the jointer. If you use link belts make sure you get the 3L width. Also, Grainger or McMaster Carr would have the belts you needed.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Can link belts be used on a planer? I have a JET 16" planer, would like to put link belts on it if they will work...
Thanks,
JJ
As long as the Jet uses standard O/3L, A/4L or B/5L belts you should be fine. I use them on everything in my workshop except my reversible shaper. They are directional and have a direction arrow on every tenth link.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Hi, Jeff - Agree with Jerry - - I've installed Power-Twist belts on everything that even looks like it might move. Have never seen a tech bulletin describing their potential for tandem applications. Historically, a set of matched belts (a bit more spendy than "normal" belts) have been required for such so as to ensure that the load was equally distributed among the belts. If not, then one belt would wear prematurely, pass the load to the next which would similarly wear too quickly, and on down the line until all had failed quite early. Naturally enough, splice quality can make or break 'em for smoothness. Small diameters can induce some tendency to "take a set" which will bump a bit until they're warmed up. In any case, ya gets what ya pays fer.I don't know precisely how well the stretchy/flexy Power Twists will work in tandem - they are inherently not categorized as "matched" - but I'd suggest that it's probably not going to be a major issue unless yours is a production shop actually using all the power available in your machine. They would without doubt make for smooth operation.However - just for grins, you might ask your local supplier (or go online, e.g., http://www.beltsforanything.com/site1.php ) to quote a good matched set, and compare actual cost to that for Power-Twist. A really good set of matched industrial-quality belts will run very smoothly, and may even cost less than the Power-Twists. They will most likely NOT be available at the local garage.Regards,---John
They are excellent in multiple belt applications because they do stretch somewhat. Their was a nice example at Fennerdrives.com of a multiple drive application but I could not find it. Check out paragraph IV step 7 in the link below. I have 3 on my Unisaw and 2 on my Grizzly G0543. The so called matched set on my Unisaw was a joke.
http://fennerdrives.com/powertwist_plus_vbelts/powertwist_installation.asp
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Hi, Jerry - Thanks for feedback exchange. The linked page doesn't amount to a tech bulletin laden with test data, but I'm not at all surprised that the more stretchy Power-Twist belts will easily accommodate tandem drives, and personally wouldn't hesitate to just jump in and do it. It's reassuring to hear of your success with them. They're a very good and serviceable design. Would still like to see long-term data for high-load comparisons. While there are commercial shops with large machines bearing heavy operational loads, there are zillions of smaller and/or personal shops not running production operations who would benefit easily and quickly from conversion to Power-Twist. That's why mine are all exactly that. They're affordable, quick and easy, dramatically effective, and are gonna last for years. (No, I don't sell 'em, but I surely do believe in 'em.)I think that another factor in favor of Power-Twists is that most small shops are not equipped to achieve bore/face/planar alignments among shafts in the range of tenths/foot, and therefore are inherently burdened with more twist-related issues. Within prudent reason, the Power-Twist concept virtually eliminates that as a notable problem. As for your Unisaw - uhhh - no surprise. No mass market mfgr is going to spend for high-performance drive components - you just get the choice between dumb-axxed and half-axxed for a few extra bucks. Then we poor victims get to come to the forums to discuss methods of overcoming severe design shortcomings. (Personally, I'd prefer that a few, at least, just come out and tell us that theirs cost more and here's why...) Sheesh - you even still see cast pulleys on lots of stuff. Need to keep complaints in focus, though - my Griz is an economic wonder, I think - a darned nice machine at a great price. It's not a big deal if I need to upgrade a couple of belts.One of these times, you'll have to mic your Unisaw's arbor diameter variations and blade fit -- -- just before you panic and go get a custom-fabbed arbor.Regards,---John
I agree with your last statement, "economic wonder". Mine arrived yesturday, I set it up last night and had fun with a couple 8' walnut boards. I did feel some vibration and will tinker with the belts tommorrow. All in all, it is awsome. I havn't owned any other 8 inch jointer, but can't imagine there's something better for the $. But time will tell and today I'm very impressed.
if you go a certain route with the belts please post as I may follow at some point but not today.
Thanks and hope your enjoying it as much as I am.
Hi - Yah - Grizzly really seems to have their act pretty well together on these machines. Glad yours turned out to be a winner, too. Perhaps I was just lucky, but mine is "purty awful smooth", and I'm not at all anxious about the belts. When they do need to be replaced, there's no question in my mind that I'll turn to Power-Twists for at least one go-round.If you've not used the P/T belts, I'd urge you strongly to get enough length for saw, drill press, and whatever else is going lickety-split on a separate motor. They make a tremendous difference. Also suggest you change out any cast pulleys with machined replacements wherever possible.Regards,---John
Can you send a link with the power twist your refering to? I've seen some for $6-7 and I've seen some for $15/ft?
Thanks,
Sure - Here's the stuff sold at Grizzly (others have it, but Griz was the least expensive, last time I looked.) http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/215 (page bottom center)...and Power Twist at Fenner (the mfgr)
http://fennerdrives.com/powertwist_plus_vbelts/powertwist_home.aspA Google search will turn up lots of vendors.
FYI - I spent nearly double per ft locally and in dribs and drabs until I finally got smart and ordered a BUNCH from Griz. You'll get the itch to convert everything in sight once you get going. (I'll bet your $6 and $15 are the same product - you're just learning who's pigs...)Online Finds for Fenner Power Twist, per foot:
Griz $6.00
Rockler $7.00
TuffTooth $8.16
PriceCutter $7.50
McFeeley $6.50Be sure to measure those you have or their pulleys to see what standard belt width you need (most likely, you're going to have a flock of "A" belts.) For total length, tot up the entire shop plus a spare for the car engine. Perhaps obviously, you'll save most by ordering all at once so as to have but one ship charge.---John
Try http://www.mcmastercarr.com for the powertist belts. Genuine fenner for 24.99 for 5 ft. Best price I could find last month.
Hi - Thanks. I think Griz is still the leader at $23.95.Regards,---John=======================================================
"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone
monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others."
---Pericles
23.95 for 4 feet or 25.99 for five. ????
Griz sells 4 foot sleeves, McMaster sells 5 foot sleeves. An extra foot for 2 bucks is always a good deal.
Hah! Caught me sleeping! That IS the best deal...I think, maybe...Hmmm - looked at McMaster online, and found a "powertwist" V-Belt at $26.20 (virtually the cost you stated) for 5 feet. However, the Power Twist brand isn't mentioned per se, and they're black (all the Fenners I've bought are red.) Fenner is nowhere mentioned on the catalog page. (As usual, McMaster's catalog can be a bit difficult to interpret. I found this in their online catalog on page 972 for which there is no direct URL link - start at http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search on 972 for the cat page.) Fenner online states clearly that their Power Twist belt is red http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist_plus_vbelts/powertwist_home.asp
On closer look, note that Fenner actually terms the brand name as "Power Twist Plus."Can you share with me how you determined that McMaster's is indeed the real deal? ...and that may be a "so what?" issue, as I doubt that McMaster would peddle junk.Regards,---John
=======================================================
"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone
monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others."
---Pericles
Edited 3/18/2006 12:07 pm by PJohn
I determined if it was the real deal by buying it.
That sort of blows me away. The Mc catalog clearly describes it as black, but yours is red (or it more or less seems to be ...), and you've obviously had the package in your hand. Walks like a duck ... Thanks for the info and verification!Regards,---John=======================================================
"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone
monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others."
---Pericles
I had to turn my monitor on its side to look at your photo, nice bandsaw. have a good one.
Brian
One more thing I wanted to mention is that all the saws doing demos at woodworking shows use Power Twist belts. Forrest is using a Power Twist equipped small table top saw to demo their excellent blades.
Also, the Unisaw will be history in about 3 months as I have ordered a sliding table saw built in Austria. I will have to live with a flat ribbed belt on the new saw.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Hi, Jerry - The wide or banded belts are really terrific for both wear and smooth power transmission. Definitely industrial grade equipment. I predict that you'll be a happy camper. Enjoy!---John
I have a SawStop cabinet saw and just took delivery on the Griz Parallel 8" jointer. Do you have a good priced source of Power Twist belts? I'm looking. My machines run smoothly but I think they could be better.
Hi - See my post (#25 in this thread.)Regards,---John=======================================================
"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone
monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others."
---Pericles
If they will sell to you GRAINGERS has about the best deal on 3/8 link belts. And they do mail order.
Bill
Hi, Bill - Good thought - had forgotten about Grainger. Looks as though McMaster may possibly have a misprint on their 1/2". In any event, bouncing between the two suggests that either would be a superior choice depending upon ease of access, ship cost, and similar nonspecifics.Regards,---John=======================================================
"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone
monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others."
---Pericles
Hi Pin Oak. I am new at woodworking and just got my Griz jointer last week. I used some scraps and a crow bar to move the motor when installing/adjusting the belts. Any other recommendations? Wiring it was also an exercise in frustration. I found it very difficult to get the grounding wire attached. Anyone else? I have not started it yet because it's too heavy for me to push it on the mobile base across the carpet without help. If anyone has anymore tips on setting it up, I sure would appreciate them.
I don't know how the you feel, and the rest of you too, and I recognize Grizzly tries to keep the cost down and offers a good product at a reasonable but I would have gladly paid some more for a jointer that was easier to set up.
Marty
Not sure what the issue was with your wiring... if it was for 220, then there is no true ground...
I think Grizzly could have made the wiring access a bit easier, but the rest of the setup seemed straight forward to me-Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
220 has a ground, but does not have a neutral.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
pin thanks for your reply , did you replace the belts and with what kind?? what were the tell tale's on the poor quality in the belts ... i've use those red link belt on my drill press,jointer . thanks for your help...........aladdendum: i'll wait for glaucon response ............ ; ) thanks " we judge ourselves by our motives, and others by their actions........."
Edited 2/18/2006 2:01 pm ET by alias
I am considering the G0490 over the other 8 inch Grizzly jointers. Did you receive your machine yet ? If so, what is your reaction ?
good morning blitz - unfortunately i have not recieved the jointer, it's on back order till the middle of march. so a couple to few weeks , and the wheels wil start to roll. i'll be sure to get back to you with pic's. i'm more and more enthusiastic about my choice, and believe with proper inspection of the parcel. i'll have plenty of work for this thing. i'll get back to you...... kent.." we judge ourselves by our motives, and others by their actions........."
I spokewith Grizzly in PA and they have the G0490 in stock so you should be getting notified about your shipment soon. I live in New Jersey and I am very tempted to drive out to PA next week to take a look.
In any case let me know what you think when you receive it. Stan
I ordered a G0490 8" jointer from Grizzly on Saturday, and it shipped yesterday. So I bet his is already shipped as well...
Last time I ordered from Grizzly, a 6" jointer, it arrived the week I ordered it. Now that's fast service.
EDIT: Just got a call from the freight company, and the jointer will be here tomorrow. Ordered Saturday, received Wednesday. Can't complain there...
My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Edited 2/28/2006 3:28 pm by John_D
Please let me know how you like the machine.
So far I've broken open the crates but not yet assembled the machine. I thought the 6"x47" jointer was a solid piece of gear... this 8"x74" looks like an aircraft carrier in comparison. And HEAVY.
I'll post after I put it together and use it, but I just wanted to say that Grizzly has improved their manual amazingly! The 1182 manual I had was adequate, about what I've come to expect with Delta experience. The new jointer's manual is light years better. Much better instructions, clearer parts list, list of accessories, just a great manual. Not "Leigh" great, but other than that, the best manual I've seen in WW gear. I was just so impressed I had to say something.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Good news about the manual. I am picking my G0490 up today at the Grizzly store in PA. Let me know how things go together for you and your impressions after you run a few boards.
How is it going for you?
Well I have more information for anyone considering a G0490, though I've still not got it fully assembled.
Observation 1, the manual looks great and is a big improvement over the last jointer manual I had from them, but it could still use some QC. For example, it looks cool that they tell you what size wrenches you'll need for doing particular steps. But the very first step, the wrench sizes are wrong. Better not to say it, than to say it wrong.
Observation 2, there's no cosmoline! It's a much more liquid lube on the tables and fence etc., easy to remove with just a wipe of a paper towel. I didn't find any rust on the castings, though I didn't inspect closely up underneath. Tables, fence, mating parts, all unfinished metal aboveboard is all clean.
Observation 3, I ran into a problem with the belt. The motor mount attaches to vertical support struts via some elongated sliding holes, and there is basically an upper set and a lower set. Well, the vertical position of the motor is dictated by the belt, but the correct spot for the motor was right between the two sets of holes! So I wrote Grizzly yesterday, and they've shipped me a link belt to replace the stock belt.
Observation 4, that top is quite heavy. I had four people helping so it wasn't difficult.
So I'll write more once I get it fully assembled.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
john- i have been remiss in posting on my new go490 . i agree with the observation of the motor mount. i struggled to get the motor exactly parallel with the cutter head.i took about an hour, but FINALLY got it. i clamped a machinist 1-2-3 block to the top pulley than dropped a brand new framing square down to align the bottom pulley between the screws on the motor and the set screw on the motor shaft that took around fifteen minutes went with a link belt that i had lying around the shop that fit . the one gripe that i have is the very small gauge wire coming off the lead from the motor 3 wire 14 or even a 16 gauge ( what the hell ??). it sure is tiny for 3 h.p. and am still wondering ?? i ran a 10/3 wire off the box with a double 20 amp breaker. i realigned the beds and knives got them within .003 from .012 from the factory that took totally 2 hours . i do have to emphasize how smooth this machine runs , and cuts exceptionally well . and am looking forward to running this baby through the numbers. at first glance for 870.00 i think this was pretty good choice . but time will tell, well i hope ....... slainte' kent.." we judge ourselves by our motives, and others by their actions........."
Edited 3/16/2006 8:19 pm ET by alias
Yeah I was a bit shocked at the light gauge on the supply wire too. Decided not to replace, though, but it's always an option I guess. Looks pretty puny compared to the NEMA 6-30 I attached it to. :)
Still, to do a complete job it looked like I'd have to chase the wires through the mag switch too, and there's no way I wanted to mess around with all that. I'll watch for any heating, and if there is any I'll do what you did.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Thanks for the update.
I did pick up my G0490 and have it up and running. I was not sure how to best align the pulleys so I did the best I could but I will have a go at it again using the method described below in this string.
As it is, the machine runs smooth and there is very little to no vibration when its doing it's thing. It cut through 7" wide Maple with no problem and the cuts are flat square and smooth.
I have run into two problems. One may be the operator (me) and it's minor, I can't figure out how to set the infeed table stop so that it is set to a max cut of 1/8". The best I can get the adjustment bolt to is just under 1/4". I am hoping it's just one of those things where I am just not seeing the forest through the trees. If anyone can clue me in please do.
The other problem I was experiencing was when I turned the machine on. During the first two seconds I was hearing a loud clank when the motor clicks on after that the machines runs great. Grizzly told me to run the motor without the v-belt on and there was no clank. They are sending me a new pulley but I do not see the connection. Initially the technitian told me it was the clutch in the motor. Let me know if you experiece the same.
Overall the experience has been very good and thus far I am very pleased. I will keep you posted please do the same.
PS This machine is very heavy.
Further update. I wrote Grizzly on Wednesday, and I already received the link belt (got it Friday). I'll get it installed this weekend and hopefully run some wood through! What they sent me was a PowerTwist Plus 4' belt (it's red), item G3640, so they really didn't go cheap.
Good luck on that clunk. I'll let you know if I hear anything like that. Some mag switches make an audible noise, but sure doesn't sound like what you're hearing.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Good luck getting up and running. Keep me posted.
I ran into the exact same issue with the jam nut and stop for the infeed max cut. I'll just be careful not to try to bite off too much -- I've placed a bit of tape on the gauge to indicate the max safe cut, but since I work with pretty dense woods, I won't exceed that anyway.
I really don't like the lever version of height setting. I liked handwheels much better. Not enough worse that I regret buying this model, but it took me a few minutes to get my outfeed to the height I wanted; with handwheels it would have taken seconds.
I needed to set the parallelism of the tables, as the outfeed table was tipped "back" and the infeed table was tipped "forward". I don't have a pin wrench, but a hammer and punch (OK, I abused an awl) were fine for setting the table plane bushings. It took me under an hour to get both tables exactly coplanar. Then, even with the levers, it wasn't hard to set the outfeed table just where I wanted it, and the infeed too.
It was a terribly busy weekend (with five kids, that's how it goes), but got that far anyway. Tonight I'm hoping to get the fence and guard on, and actually run some boards through!My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Thanks again for the update. I did submit a note to Grizzly on the infeed table issue and I am waiting for a respnse. All else is good with my machine, still waiting for the new pulley but I don't think that will stop the start up Clank.
Keep me posted. Five kids. WOW. I had two that are now out on their own. It's funny how much I miss them now.
My oldest is 16, so I can't count on him being here too much longer! My youngest (twins) are 20... months. So still quite a bit of time there. :)
It does fly by, though.
Didn't get any further on the jointer last night. Husband and father first, you know... but tonight? Maybe!My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I spoke to Grizzly about the infeed table max depth cut setting and after several conversations they determined that the bolt is to short. They recommended that I replace it with a 4" bolt. I will do so but will also give them feedback that they should be doing that.
All else is good with the machine and it is doing a great job on some long and wide maple that I am working with now.
I am headed out to visit my two sons this coming week. One is in Olympia, Washington and one is in Bend, Oregon. Looking forward to seeing them and visiting with my grandaughter.
Hope all is well with you, your family and your jointer.
Have fun in Olympia... I'm in Redmond, not too far away. :)
Hey thanks for the advice on the bolt. I can't tell from the parts diagram: With the machine fully assembled, can I just back that bolt out, go get a new one, then thread the new one right in, or is there something that's going to fall out of place and require work to get it set up again? :)
Thanks!
Oh, I should mention that I've run a few dozen board feet over the jointer now, and it is louder than my old 6" (not too surprising, it's much more powerful). I also now know what the previous poster means by "belt slap." I don't know if it's because I've not got the thing adjusted right, or if I need more tension on the belt, or what -- belt slap for me happens after I power down, right as the machine is almost done spinning. I did it with the covers off the base, and it's just as the belt "settles" off its high-speed trajectory to its resting trajectory.
I bent the HECK out of my belt guard, and it's not being hit any more. Grizzly was nice enough to send me a second link belt, since the first one got chewed up pretty good by the oversize fender washer to the left of the top pulley (and melted a little by the undersized belt guard).
So I agree with the previous poster, who found more vibration, noise, and belt slap. I'm hoping I can tune it better and get rid of the belt weirdness, but I'm just not much of a machine guy. I'm sure learning though.
I'm glad I moved up, but I may regret it some months down the road if I find I'm running through belts or something. The increased noise doesn't bother me, nor does the belt slap -- as long as the belts don't wear out too fast!
Oh, I should mention the finish. Well, it's just as good as anything I pulled off my old 6" jointer. That is to say, it's nowhere near finish-quality, but it's easily cleaned with a few passes of a sharp plane. Just like the old jointer. It does what a jointer does... it makes a flat board, and it joints a right angle onto it too. Both of these are accomplished to the precision I can measure, so good enough.
I bet a Powermatic or a Delta would be quieter and vibrate less. But if I can't see it in my work, I can deal with that as a hobbyist. So a good deal for me, I saved at least $500 over a new Delta 8", but YMMV. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Well, further in the saga of the G0490. I received the PowerTwist Plus link belt and installed it. But now, the belt rubs against the belt guard. I've written Grizzly to ask them for a solution to this issue.
Also, the fender washer that's under the left cap screw (left of the cutterhead's belt pulley, as viewed from the back of the machine) that secures the fence carriage to the main casting, this washer is too wide, and rubs against the link belt. In just a few seconds of running, it scored the belt. This I solved by using a metal cutoff wheel to cut off part of the washer, so it won't touch the belt.
So I'm not home free yet.
One thing I don't like is that the power switch has a weird feature. When you turn it off, the red off button depresses. To allow the start button to work, you have to first twist the red off button so it pops out again. Then you can press the start button.
So I've had it powered up, but not yet put stock through it.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I have odered the power twist belt and I have received the new pulley. I will let you know if there are any problems with the belt once I install it.
You are correct that the on/off switch is a little different but mine works fine so for now I'll stay with it.
I see you powered up, any clank or chunk when you press the start button ?
No clank or clunk. But there was that rubbing belt, so I shut down after only a few seconds. Grizzly said they'd ship me a modified belt cover, but in the meantime I'll beat mine up and try to run it anyway. They're going to send me (another) link belt too, since the belt cover and the washer have damaged this one.
I didn't realize at first that the red button had to be twisted and popped out. I actually got my voltage tester out to see if I had juice going to the motor (thinking I might possibly have fouled up the 220v plug installation, simple though it is), but visited the manual one last time. That's when I realized the red button was preventing startup.
So I can't say the "fit and finish" is great at this point, but I have to say they're addressing the issues quickly. It's all cascading from one problem, that unusable belt it shipped with.
By the way, I also mentioned the "maximum cut" adjustment issue, but they didn't answer it in the email.
Now I'm going to go and try to manhandle that bloody belt cover. If I totally screw it up, I can use the one they're sending. Not keen on operating without it...My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
The lockout function of the stop button is a deliberate design feature. The type of motor control switch chosen by Grizzly for this machine is designed so that if you turn the machine off, it can not start up again (e.g. by plugging it in again, flipping a circuit breaker) without releasing the stop button. This protects you from an unintended machine start when power is re-established.
Actually this switch is found mostly on 220v machines. But as a safety feature, it would be nice if it was added to all 110v machines.
Nice try but BZZZZZZZZZ! wrong answer. :)
If I interrupt power to my jointer during operation, the magnetic switch (not the manual switch) does what you say... when I restore power, the machine does not automatically restart. In fact, in this circumstance, since the red button has not been depressed, the jointer will restart with just a press of the green button.
The only time the red button needs to be popped back out, is if I depress it to stop the jointer.
It's not much of a safety feature, it's just a pain in the neck. Heck, if requiring two operations to start the machine is good, then why not three? Why not a secret PIN that must be entered with every on/off? :)
The magnetic switch, which really does perform the function you mention (require positive action to restart after a power interruption), is definitely a good thing and I agree it would be good to have on all such machines. Although, not the router, because then you couldn't use an external switch to turn it on and off. And not the dust collector either, because I use an external power switcher for that too. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Welllllllllll :) At least I know one person read my post.
I was trying to avoid to technical a discussion. But BuZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. maybe just a couple of ZZ's? :)
Actually I was tryingto avoid a discussion of the wiring between such a switch and a magnetic switch since they are usually designed to work together for safety reasons. But I should have remembered that the members like detail, DETAIL.
However whether people find the lockout switch convenient or not is a matter of preference.
Unfortunately in my professional life, I have seen lost fingers, horrible burns, and like injuries suffered when either the employer or the employee found the saftey device "inconvenient" or that it slowed production and then bypassed it or rendered it inoperable.
And we mustn't forget product liability litigation. Manufacturers, out of concern for safety, or avoidance of litigation, need to address and sometimes add devices and features which would never be necessary around well trained, experienced and fully attentive individuals. But I suspect we have all done something stupid at least once while working with tools. I know I have more than once. So far no serious injuries.
Any day when the only thing cut is wood, is a good day.
If the intention of the device is to prevention starting the jointer by banging into it, it would be a LOT more effective to put the start button in a well (like a Unisaw start).
With the switch Grizzly has, some folks might get into the habit of twisting the red button on every stop, rather than on the start, so the whole safety thing would go out the door.
I'm not against safety features, and love the magnetic starter feature. I bet there have been more than a few people over the years who, lacking that feature, have knocked out a plug, leaned on the machine, and plugged it back in... WHIRRRR! I bet those have saved more than a few fingers.
Here's to more safe, good days, for you and me both. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
The best safety devices are those that are simple to use and if possible almost intuitive. But few meet that standard.
I am putting together the finishing touches, photos, on an article for FW about building your own switch box that could be used on saws, routers, etc. If they don't want it, then perhaps one of the other mags will take it.
This switch uses a protected start button and a large "off" paddle which can be built for about $15 or less. You should be able to find all the parts at HD, Lowes, or Ace. This is much less than the aftermarket switches.
It can be flush mounted into a cabinet or into a utility box and then screwed to the bottom of a table, to a cabinet (if you don't want to flush mount) or to a table leg. It uses all UL listed components and if constructed per the drawings would be NEC compliant as well.
Best,
Just wanted to let you know that Grizzly seems to have solved the Jam nut problem on the infeed max cut side. The3 bolt is to short so I was told I could replace it with a 4" bolt and I should be able to set the max cut to 1/8".
I just finished jointing some 7" maple and I must admit that this machine did a great job and in very little time. All else is going well with it so no complaints left.
I heading out to visits my sons out in Olympia, Washington and Bend, Oregon this coming week. One additional bonus is that I get to see my grandaughter for 3 or 4 days.
Hope all is going well with the mchine and the family.
John,
I bought the Grizzly G0586 Jointer that had some of the same problems as your machine.
The 2 HP motor on my unit has dual pulleys. Consequently, the belt is the deciding factor in determining the motor location. Also the manual does not discuss the correct belt tensioning.
My biggest problem was the casting that supports the fence casting. The guide block was set incorrectly due to the casting groove was milled wrong and was not perpendicular to the jointer bed.
They sent me a new casting but had to reset the guild block myself.
The tools Grizzly sells are great for the money but i wish there service matched their equipment.
If the service isn't up to expectations, anyone who buys from them should keep on them, but do it in a productive way. Nobody likes to be yelled at when it isn't their fault. I have made some calls on my jointer and once for my TS. I got my info quickly every time and when my jointer came to me with scratches from some nimrod sticking something metal into the box (it was probably after it left because most shippers won't take gouged boxes), they offered to replace the panels. I asked if they had touchup paint and if they could give me a deal on a motor cover for my TS, and they gave it to me. Because of things like this, it's possible that whoever I talked to isn't there now (probably due to them giving things away) but it definitely gave me a good impression. I called for jointer info on Monday and even though I didn't have the model # in front of me, he looked it up and had no problem discussing some things with me.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
When i bought the Grizzly table saw about 5 years ago, there were some problems that were resolved very quickly and their service was impeccable. My point is that something has changed. The equipment is the best for the money, but service is not what i have come to expect.
Good luck
Did you need parts or info? If you need info, call and see if Jim is available. Even for parts contact, I haven't had any issues but I also haven't needed any since I broke the scale for cutting depth on my planer a year ago. I had no problem then.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I ordered the Grizzly 10" jointer on Feb. 27 and they told me it was out of stock and would be in by March 24th. I just learned yesterday that they won't be in till May now. Do you think I should give up the extra 2 inches and go with the 8"?
For me, cost was the issue. I couldn't afford the 10", but would love it if I had it.
Everything depends on what stock you'll need to work with. Any too-wide stock, you'll have to either rip and machine, or work by hand. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I'm very happy with my 8" Grizzly...had it for 3 months now.
Not sure if I would be jointing many 9"-10" boards myself... most hardwood stuff I get is 6-7"...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I took delivery of a 14" bandsaw from Grizzly a couple weeks ago, and the truck did NOT have a lift gate. Fortunately, I have a tractor with a loader and I was able to unload the machine with the loader. If it had not been for that, I'm not sure how in the heck I would have unloaded the bandsaw. It weighs couple of hundred pounds, and the bed of the truck was chest high?! The driver is not obligated to help unload, although the guy that delivered by saw did help me out.
I also have a G0123 saw on backorder, and after experiencing the delivery of the bandsaw I called Grizzly and told them I'd drive up and take delivery of the G1023, using my flatbed trailer. I'm about 4 hours away, and unloading a 600 lb saw from my trailer will be a lot easier than unloading one from the bed of a big truck.
Hope this helps you plan for your delivery...JJ
I bought the 17" BS from Grizzly and then the 1023. You will like the cabinet saw. I also got the horizontal boring machine and liked it as well. So far my shop looks pretty green. I have been lusting after the jointer and feel it's purchase is not far off.
"I went home a threw a rock at my 6" Delta jointer." ROFL!!!!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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