I’m new to this forum, but I’m hoping to find some useful information that could help me in the process of building up my home workshop. I recently bought a Triton TRA001 Router, this is a 3.25 HP, 13.5lbs machine with a 1/2″ collet and adaptors down to a 1/4″. I’m looking now at several Router Bits to get started on my first project, and I’m wondering whether or not I should consider going with 1/2″ shanks or 1/4″ shanks. So I’m at a toss up. I figure that as I get further and further into woodworking that I will eventually own several routers (or at least a trim router). This puts up a quandary. Do I purchase 1/2″ router bits that will work better in the current router that I have, and provide better cutting? Or do I purchase 1/4″ shank bits that will work with both routers? I mean certain bits will only be used with the 1/2″ router in a router table, so those are spoken for. But for your more generic cove bits, and straight bits, would it be better to go with the 1/4″ shank? Also I’m looking at the MLCS Sliding Precision Router Table, however, I can’t seem to find any reviews of this item outside of those provided on MLCS’s website. Does anyone have any experience with this table, and could you give me some feedback.
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Replies
I'm a firm believer in using
I'm a firm believer in using 1/2" shank router bits whenever possible, and given how expensive good router bits are, I can't see obtaining a bunch of bits you might not be satisfied with months down the road.
There are some small-profile bits that either can't be found in 1/2" or are (I'm told) less safe, because tapering down from 1/2" to, say, 1/8", sets up a situation where the neck is a weak link. That aside, a 1/2" shank is stronger and has more mass. I feel safer with them, and won't own a router that doesn't take 1/2" bits (except trim router).
I agree with Forestgirl's
I agree with Forestgirl's comments. Use 1/2 inch whenever available. The exception would be small bits, or maybe some other specialty bit or application.
Especially with a big router.
Alan - planesaw
I agree with Forestgirl's
I agree with Forestgirl's comments. Use 1/2 inch whenever available. The exception would be small bits, or maybe some other specialty bit or application.
Especially with a big router.
Alan - planesaw
ForestGirl's advise is solid.
ForestGirl's advise is solid. Rather than purchasing mostly 1/4" shank bits and a few 1/2" shank bits for use exclusively in the table, purchase mostly 1/2" shank bits and a few 1/4" shank bits for use in a laminate trimmer/laminate trimmer. The only 1/4" shank bit I regularly use is a 1/2" diameter x 1/2" tall hinge mortise bit.
Another vote for 1/2" bits whenever possible. In addition to the added safety of a heftier bit, the cuts will tend to be smoother as a result.
Alright, so the consensus seems to be to purchase more 1/2" shank bits and only purchase 1/4" shank ones when they are absolutely needed. Good to know.
So onto my second question:
Do any of you consider the router bit combination sets (Let's say Eagle America's 70 piece set for $300) are worth it. I mean they seem to be a good deal for some one like myself that will only be doing this for fun, not for a business.
Also, does anyone have any experience with the MLCS Precision Sliding Router Table?
Personally, I think the sets are a bit of a waste. You end up with a few that you use frequently, and many you might never use. I feel it's more economical to think about what you want to do with the router (dados, edge profiles, joinery, etc.) and buy what you're actually going to use. I'd lean toward buying/investing-in only top quality bits, however.
I have no experience with the MLCS Precision Sliding Router Table.
While I tend to agree. My thought behind it was to head off my inevitable needing of something. I don't know about you, but when it comes to generic cutting tools, particularly router bits in my life. I find myself always needing the one I don't have.
I also don't really have easy access to them either where I'm at. Other than what is sold at home depot and Lowes, I don't really know of places that sell decent bits, at a reasonable price.
I was kind of looking only at some of them to see if I couldn't have a good access to what I may or may not need.
but I guess if I were really going to ask myself what I would need it might end up being a lot happier.
Take a look at what you're
Take a look at what you're really getting with a large set like that. The $300 set you mentioned are actually the Price Cutter bits...they're fairly nice bits, but with any very large set you'll get a huge number of straight bits (plus several other straight bits that go by different names), roundovers, coves, chamfers, ogees, and dovetails...there are very few unique profiles. Odds are good you'll want one or two each of the profiles above but not 5-10. Also, your unique profiles will be very proprietary to what you're doing and your tastes....odds are high that they won't be in the set. The sets don't include a panel raising set, and aren't likely to include joinery profiles, or a thumbnail table edge bit that's very handy for all kinds of furniture work. I'd opt to distribute my budget a little differently than a huge set...maybe get a smaller set that includes 1 or 2 of the very basic bits, then add a raised panel set, a thumbnail table edge bit, joinery bits as needed/wanted, and maybe a dovetail set if that's something you'll use.
For $80 you can get the Whiteside basic 7 pc set, then can add $220 of other bits as needed. The Whiteside set is very high quality American made cutters (similar to the actual Eagle America bits), and it gives one each of the most common profiles...$80 shipped from Holbren.com with "SMC10" discount code.
Also, correct me if I'm
Also, correct me if I'm wrong. But it would seem the HSS bits will provide cleaner cuts, but dull quicker. while Carbide will last longer but not cut as cleanly. That may be a huge over simplification, but I just kind of wanted to get other people's take on the matter.
In theory, HSS can, I believe, be made sharper than carbide. Whether that's actually the case, as manufactured, is another matter. Personally, I buy only carbide.
As to where to buy, I mostly buy from online dealers. I've found the premium brand of Eagle America bits (http://www.eagleamerica.com) to be good. Whiteside is another premium bit maker, and their bits are available online from Woodcraft (http://www.woodcraft.com) and others. But, some folks like Freud, MLCS (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/), or something else.
BTW, I just had a look at the MLCS table you mentioned. It does look pretty slick - if where it would be located would provide full access to the rear of the table. However, I prefer table designs that use heavy-duty plates to which the router is mounted. Ones that include lifts, or allow a lift to be installed later, would be another step up. Mine just has the plate, and I lift the router out for adjustments - easier for me to see that way.
Yeah I considered tables with lifts in them for a long time, until I read the fine wood working Review of the Triton Router that I just got. The Triton TRA001 basically has a Router lift built into it, and it is capable of acting as it's own lift once mounted.
I own a sliding rig for my table saw, and the difference it made on my use of the machine was quite profound, particularly when it came to cutting sheet material.
I like the idea that the MLCS table has a sliding table built into it for the same reason. Basically, being able to tighten down the work and then use the table to slide, rather than trying to slide the piece across the table just seems a lot better to me, particularly when using large 3" diameter bits (which I must admit I have not experience using, and I'm only speculating).
There are several manufacturers that make sliding router tables that I have found. Grizzly, Shopfox, and MLCS are the ones that I have found. And all seem to pretty much be the same thing, with MLCS's being slightly cheaper. So it got my mind turning, and I wanted to see if I couldn't get a review outside of the MLCS website for it.
The only thing that I think I might modify would be building in some sort of mobile base (I think I could easily weld on some drop casters that could make the base mobile, or buy one of the pre-manufactured mobile bases). And I might modify the fence system. But mainly I really like the fact that the table lifts up, that the machine weighs enough to keep it down, and that the table slides. Not to sound presold.
When there is an option I always go with a 1/2 shank. I have had a 1/4 shank bit shear off and hit my face shield. I was only making a shallow hinge mortise with a 1/4 inch strait bit with a 1/4 shank so nothing crazy. The bit was also a cheep Chinese carbide bit. I would say stick to quality bits and you will have less problems and by them as you need them not in big sets. I have had good experiances with CMT, and Eagle American (the made in U.S.A versions).
Good luck
Troy
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