This jig is great for reestablishing the bevel on a chisel or plane blade. It can be used with almost any stationary belt sander. The tool heats up less than on a grinder, so you’re unlikely to burn an edge. Also, the 4-in.-wide belt grinds the entire blade evenly, unlike other setups where you must move the blade back and forth.

The fixture costs about $10, mostly for the tool rest (a chromed steel drawer pull from a hardware store). To make the jig, bolt two 1-in.-thick blocks onto the steel frame of the sander flush with the top of the sander bed. Drill holes in the blocks to receive the legs of the tool rest (drawer pull). To make sure each leg hole is the same depth, use a drill press with the same depth setting for both sides. The height of the tool rest over the belt should be around 3/4-in.

To make the blade holder, cut a 3-in.-long section of steel angle and drill and tap for bolts. Make a steel top plate the same length to lock down the blade with wing nuts. Position the wing-nut bolts toward the front edge so that they don’t interfere with the tool rest.

To use the jig, insert the blade in the holder and, with the blade square to the holder and projecting the right distance to give the correct bevel, tighten the wing nuts. To assist in setup, I made and use several blade-adjustment blocks. Place the blade holder on the tool rest and pivot it onto the moving sanding belt. Be sure to use light pressure. The sanding belt should be moving toward the blade. The blade will heat up gradually. When it feels warm, quench the end of the blade in water. I move the blade sideways along the tool rest to wear the abrasive belt evenly.

I’ve found it best to tilt and fix the bed of the belt sander at about 45°. This will direct the sparks downward and away from you. One final tip: Be sure to clean out any sawdust before grinding metal to prevent the sparks from igniting the sawdust.

Drawings by Jim Richey.

Drawings by Jim Richey.

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