Just saw a great zero clearance tip on the Woodsmith ShopNotes disc that came with my mag.
I’d always struggled with this because it seemed so much trouble to make them and I can’t find one to buy for my Craftsman TS.
What this guy does is carpet tapes a large section of 1/4 hardboard to his TS that covers the standard insert up to the fence setting. Instead of a zero clearance insert it’s a zero clearance top. Then he raises the spinning blade into the hardboard. I think its a great idea.. and it has the added virtue of holding several kerfs as you reset the fence setting for different cuts.
Just thought I’d pass it along.
Bill
Replies
This is also a really good and safer way of cutting plastic laminate on a table saw. With the hardboard top (I use 1/8") the laminate won't slip under the fence.
Hal
http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com
Bill,
I am glad you put that one on Knots. I found out about it about a year ago. It works well. It is easy and cheap. It has been around on various lists of tips for a long time, but it remains a well hidden secret to many who could use to know it.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
I'm really looking forward to using it. I tried using my dado head to put a 1/4" groove in a 10" long stile.. and it was a disaster with my regular dado insert in place. This should make it possible.
"I'd always struggled with this because it seemed so much trouble to make them...." The hardboard is a quick and easy way, but ZC inserts aren't such a hassle when you make several at once. Seems to be one of those things that's easy to put off, but once you get started and make 5 or 10, not that big a deal.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I agree. I have 2 patterns that I use.
First one I use to draw shape on the blank and then cut out. Reuse pattern 1 with router and flush trim bit to smooth out and bring to final size. This one also has note on it what the finished thickness needs to be so I can start by planing the wood to that thickness.
Pattern 2 is for the underside part that I have to rout out so it sits on the ledge/lip. I then set my router table up with the pin router attachment and finish the bottom.
It may not be the easiest process, so when I do make them, I will make a minimum of 12 at a time and run them all thru each step before going to the next
" There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow
I'm sure you're right but I'm one of those woodworkers who doesn't have enough time to make all the stuff I'd like to make.. let alone spend time making jigs and fixtures.
I did take time to make two jigs that I found it too hard to do without.. a panel cutter and a crosscut sled.
As an aside, just got back from the Rockler store where I was able to pick up some nifty cherry boards for $5 bf. (Watch Frenchy chime in that I got ripped off)
Bill
"(Watch Frenchy chime in that I got ripped off)" If he didn't, we'd all be worried, right?! Too funny. Congrats. Cherry has been quite expensive around here for awhile.
Certainly nothin' wrong with the hardboard ZC approach, as long as you don't need that fraction of an inch in height.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Fine Wood Working gave me $100.00 for my zero clearance idea. If you did not see it in the magazine, simply put a piece of tape over the kerf of your factory insert. Remove the insert from the saw, flip it over and fill the back with epoxy or auto body filler. When it sets, put the insert back in the saw and raise the blade. Clamp the insert down of course.
Sedna
I prefer to make the ZC inserts out of white melamine coated particle board. They are easy to write on and actually see the marks and notes, and work well for a long time.
You are right that they really don't take very long to make. Even 1 at a time is worth it.
Hal
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