I am getting into the hobby and would like to buy a table saw as my first major tool purchase.
I currenty have an outdoor 1 1/2 car garage to work in and would still like to at times put the cars back in it. Therefore, I would like to be able to move much of my equipment around.
I live in a 1920’s colonial and much of the work that I do will be (and has been) restoration. My wife would like me to build a picket fence for the house and I would like to rebuild wooden storms as my first projects. I would also eventually like to build some furniture. Probably along the lines of things like Adirondack Chairs, Pantry, cabinets, end tables, children’s bed, etc.
I am looking to spend between $500 and $800. Preferably, I would like to get the best bang for my buck.
I have read about Grizzly and am seriously entertaining the thought of driving to Muncy, Pa to check the place out. I have also considered the new Delta Contractor Saws.
Any advice and experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck
Replies
If space is a concern you might want to look at one of the mobile work site saws. Almost all the big power tool companies make them now, and they can usually be found at the local big box store. I know a few guys that make some excellent furniture on this type of saw as well.
If you want to go with a more typical saw I would look at the new 'Hybrid saw' they are essentially a contractors saw with a cabinet. They take up a little less space as the motor isn't sticking out the back. This is the type I have (General 50-220).
If Grizzly is close enough, and you feel like the drive it might be worth it. They seem to be a great value. Most of the complaints on the forums are related to shipping, not quality.
I have a RIDGID tablesaw from the 'BIGBOX'.. Works for me and I use it all the time. I have a early one with the spindle (arbor?) problem but I never use a daddo blade (I always use my routers for jobs like that).. My only 'gripe' is that motor sticks out the back and takes up room when you want to put it against the wall. I'm a metal worker and would be a easy 'fix' but so far I have been to lazy to do it... Besides, I'd probably have to 'fix' my welder and get a different drive belt... LOL..Anyway, the RIDGID is far from PERFECT but IT WORKS more than just OK.. I use it almost every day. For the price, I have bought much less for alot more.. Just a general statement.. Not about a particular saw..If it means anything I just LOVED my old Ryobi (3000 SOMETHING?) with the little sliding table ALSO!.. Most FOLKS think THEY WERE JUNK.. I ran more wood through that saw than I could afford!
Dear Charles,
Welcome! While you are in PA, you may want to check out Wilke machinery as well.
http://www.wilkemachinery.com/WelcomeToWilke.html?cart=114685215620710
I am a contractor and on site we use a Makita 10" bench top that is dropped into a Rousseau table with two out feed tables. Nice, stable platform, big rip capacity for doing sheet goods and just as often, I park my 12" Makita surface planer on it as well. the whole thing breaks down into a very compact package. The planer makes for a nice combo for ripping solid stock. Rip it in the TS, 1/16" heavy and send it through the planer on edge to finish it. Eliminates a lot of sanding. If you are restoring a 1920s structure, no doubt that you have discovered that material dimensions have changed over the years. I do a lot of work on these older buildings and the planer is invaluable. You may want to consider it for a second or third purchase.
John
For a long time, I used only circular saws and an old radial arm saw to supplement my hand tools, since hand tools were my primary woodworking focus. However, about 10 years ago, I wanted to build kitchen cabinets since I don't really think manufactured ones are worth what you pay for them. I got a floor model Crafstman saw 'cause it was under $700, thinking I would still be ahead on the cost of making cabs, including the saw, vs. buying cabs. I figured that I could always upgrade later to a cabinet saw. My saw is mounted on wheels so I can move it around when needed. I also installed a thin-kerf Forrest blade, a link belt and machined pulleys to smooth it out a bit. While it's not a great saw (not to mention a pretty crummy fence that I have to adjust regularly), I have never felt that there was anything I couldn't do on it that I would be able to do if I had a "real" saw. While it may not be a production unit, I've put thousands of board feet of oak, cherry and maple through it with the saw only "complaining" (popped the thermal overload) twice in 10 years from cutting long runs of 2" stock. Bottom line is, I have never been tempted to upgrade except for the one saw that constantly tempts me -- the SawStop. Not because I need it, but just because I like the idea of making saws safer when possible, and I think it's pretty lame that the major US manufacturers don't seem to make this a priority. (They will though, once they get tagged for a few big product liability jury verdicts now that safer technology is readily available.)
My advice -- look around for a sweet deal on a nice contractor's saw (floor model or last year's model) or a used machine in good shape. The projects you list won't suffer for the lack of a 3-HP motor and a fence accurate to .001". Then, learn to use it safely. With the money you save, buy a good dust collector for all that sawdust you'll be makin'!
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
You know, I'm a big fan of Sawstop and I didn't even think of it. I agree about the manufacturers and I'm glad that you brought it up. Best investment someone could make, right there. Charles, Mike has an excellent point, one worth considering. Never mind Grizzly and the like. Check out the "Sawstop": http://www.sawstop.com/ If you don't want to spring for the cabinet saw, then save your nickels for the contractor saw that will be out at the end of the year. John
Charles,
Give some consideration to the Rigid TS3650. I have owned one for about 2 years now and have no complaints. I use it on a regular part - time basis. It has an excellent integrated mobile base that makes it very easy to move around. It also features a dust shroud around the blade on which a shop vac hooks up easily. It has plenty of power for just about anything you would need to tackle. It is in the price range you indicated. I work on large commercial duty saws all day and of course it doesn't have the same power. However, if you're fussy about set ups it can be nearly as accurate as those saws. It is a good value.
Best of luck,
-Paul
I have considered that one. I have heard that there have been problems with the arbor and have had some issues with dado stacks.How about you?Chuck
The Ridgid will be my next saw soon. The arbor issue is fixed in the new versions of the saw - assuming your HD has sold one within the last year or so. :)
A good review of the saw here: http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html
The only negative about the YS3650 seems to be the limited table area aft of the blade. An outfeed table or some ingenuity would overcome that shortcoming.
Second that. 3 years now and not much to complain about.
My biggest gripe is the filmy-stuff they put on the scale on the front rail. I've tried to remove the adhesive that was left behind when I peeled it off. Mineral spirits won't cut it, and if I rub too hard the numbers start disappearing. Haven't fully lost any yet, but it looks like I'm 'stuck' with a sticky front rail.
I spent a little time dialing the saw in; cuts are square and smooth.
The saw works great. I haven't experienced the problem with the film. Maybe they got that bug worked out by the time I got mine. I think you can get replacement stick on ruler tapes -Woodworkers Supply maybe?
Hi Chuck - You should have no problem finding a really nice saw within your price range. I think you'll get better performance, longer term reliability, and more user friendly features out of a stationary saw than a portable. You can always add a mobile base to roll it around, but if you really need the portability of jobsite saw, they'll do the trick too.
Either of those you mentioned are good choices IMO...I'd go with the Grizzly hybrid (G0478) over the Delta contractor saw. There are many choices of hybrids within your budget, which have several advantages over a traditional contractor saw. Smaller footprint, fully enclosed cabinet, better DC, more mass/better stability, no motor hanging out the back, and the shorter drive belts tend to have more efficient power transfer. Many of the newer versions have a Biesemeyer or Biese clone fence. Amazon has been offering the 3 Delta hybrids at some pretty attractive discounts if still on sale....choice of the T2, Unifence, or Biese. The 36-715, 716, & 717. I'd also consider the Craftsman 22114 or 22124, but the 22124 pushes your budget a bit unless it's on sale...these have both received raves and feature cabinet mounted trunnions.
You might also consider taking the ultimate plunge and grab a Grizzly 1023 3hp cabinet saw, but that blows your budget by about $350, plus it'll need 220v.
You'll know when you find the right saw at the right price. Whichever you decide on, be sure to have a good blade or two available....better yet, make that an excellent blade or two...don't cheap out here.
Good luck and please post back when you've decided.
Edited 5/6/2006 8:55 am ET by scottwood
My counsel would be to first look at two categories of TS's:
In the portable group, the Bosch 4000 is the leader of the pack, and I think Home Depot's Ridgid is not far behind. Either can be rigged with wheeled stands that will collapse (to save space). From what I hear and read around here, users of each seem very satisfied.
I would also urge you to check out the so called Hybrid saws. These will give you a better quality cut and more versatility than any of the portables. They are, I think, better than a contractor's saw, but not quite up to the full scale cabinet saws (Unisaw, Powermatic 66, etc.).
Dewalt was the first in this category, followed soon after by Jet. Other people are making them now, but I would familiarize myself with these two to serve as a kind of benchmark for evaluating the others in this group.
Good luck.
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Charles,
"Preferably, I would like to get the best bang for my buck"
In my opinion, this is the wrong objective for two reasons:
1. Almost any of the popular table saws are a significant value, especially when compared to the other costs in the hobby.
2. Regardless of which you choose, if after a year you want to sell is will cost you a couple of hundred or so...regardless of the model for the most part.
My point is, wasting a whole lot of time trying to determine the "best bang" ...yada, yada..
There are a few factors relative to your situation that may be of importance. First, a cabinet saw has a smaller footprint than a contractor saw...not by much, but smaller. Second, a cabinet saw contains the dust much better than a contractor saw. Third, the design of a cabinet saw means less vibration when cutting which translates into smoother cuts..again, not by much, but better. Lastly, the cabinet saw holds its set up better than a contractor saw. These are all broard generalizations about the differences which can be mitigated. The hybreds, in some cases, address all these issues.
One of the most important benefits to me of my cabinet saw was/is that it provides a guaranteed flat surface for checking stock and getting square glue-ups....for me that was pricless.
Here are the reasons for my "Best Bang Theory":1) I have two kids. I would like to spend more money but I can't justify it.2) I am looking more for a saw that I can use for home renovation with some use for furniture (i.e. - picnic table, sandbox, kid's beds, wooden storm windows, garage shelving/cabinets, etc.)3) I have limited power tools now. I would like to buy some hand power tools to assist me with my projects that I have planned. I have even looked into purchasing refurbs through CPO Porter Cable and CPO Bosch.4) I have seveal other hobbies like playing ice hockey, fly-fishing, and I just took up hunting.5) Garage has to function as garage still. I understand that a cabinet saw has a smaller footprint than a contractors saw but does it have a smaller footprint than a Bosch table top saw?6) Gargage is wired for 110V.7) Mortgage and car payment.I suppose that I could go on and on but I believe that my reasoning is pretty solid for my needs. Again, I would love to get the top-of-the-line or even a lower end cabinet saw but don't think that I can justify it based on what I mentioned above.I think that the front runners now are the new HD/Ridgid TS3650 (BTW - How do I know if it is a new one and not the one with arbor problems?) and the Bosch Bench top with that funky little cart. I suppose if I found an older cabinet saw at an estate sale, ebay, or in the want adds I might be interested.Thanks for the input though, it is still appreciated.Any other info on the BOsch that I am speaking of or the new Ridgid saw (or the Ridgid brand of tools) would be appreciated.Thanks,
Chuck
Chuck - I understand the appeal of a jobsite portable like the Bosch for a small space, which is a very good example BTW, as is the Ridgid 2400 and the DeWalt 744, but what advantages do you see of a traditional contractor saw like the 3650 with the motor hanging out the back over a hybrid that will run on 110v, takes up less space, yet offers the same table surface area?
Edited 5/6/2006 6:29 pm ET by scottwood
Chuck:I don't know if anyone else mentioned it, but maybe you should consider the festool and EZ guide system and buy a circular saw. I don't have one, but many seem to love them. You get portabiity for your home projects. The EZ system seems to have all kinds of add ons that make it very versatile. I think this could be a way to get lots of bang for the buck. Later on you can decide if you even need a table saw. Many adherents of these systems say their ts has become nearly obsolete.
Bakesale,
That is good suggestion...the EZ Guide. Along with a bandsaw, planer and a workbench lots of good stuff could be made...some planes and chisels too.
Ah. . . . . that is an appealing idea (Festool solution). I went to the site and watched many of the videos. Festool looks like an interesting solution for cutting miters and long straight cuts on sheet goods (using only one person)(safer option for fingers). Now, this presents another issue. I was planning on using a table saw for tenons (using a dado stack, running stock through (cross cut) using a miter guage, or buying a tenoning jig).Has anyone had pretty good success cutting tenons using a band saw or any other methods?Chuck
Charles,
Here is the EZ Smart solution:
View Image
View Image
View Image
Hey Burts, can you tell me more about the setup you show here? I have the EZ but I'm not that advanced with it.-s
Storme,
CHeck out this link and go thru all the photo's.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/EZ-Mortise-tenons-with-limit-stops/worx_saw_073
The setup is quite simple. Cut a dado in a piece of plywood to hold the projection on the rail that the saw normally rides on. Use a couple of smart clamps to hold the Rail in the dado . Screw the board to the ends of the support boards used in the smart table. Mount a rail on top of the smart table about 16" from the edge. Use the SRK and a router. Set stops to control the motion of the router. Clamp a board (the one that will receive the mortice or tendon) to the rail on the side of the table. Use Smart clamps just like you are clamping the rail to a board to be cut. Cut the mortice or tendon.
This is a brief summary and leaves out a lot of details. I think that once you see the photo's and then read this, the whole process will make sense. If not let me know and I'll give you more details.
Burt
I see that you use a PC router. How is the dust collecton? I like the Festool tools because they seem to have very good dust collection? Is it worth the extra cost?Chuck
Hi Charles.
The Festool OF-1400 is my favorite router for more than just the dust collection. Actually, I don't like to use the dust collection with any router.
I prep my job and do the routing outdoors with a small Makita blower and a dust mask. I call it "dust free routing". You gain speed and easy without the hose and with no chips or dust left on your workpiece.
YCF Dino
Eurekazone
Edited 5/7/2006 7:50 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Charles,
The photos on the Web site are from Dino - not myself. I have worked on some testing and development with Dino but I am not an EZ Smart employee.
I have several routers but none are Festool. Listen to what Dino told you. If he says it is good, it is good.
Burt
Assuming that I am interested in either the Festool option or the EZ option, what am I going to need to do mortise and tenons for storm windows
Charles,
I don't know the Festool system well enough to answer that question for them. Maybe someone can help me out on this one.
On the EZ side, you need a router, two EZ rails, the SRK, 4 Smart clamps, a set of stops. and a straight router bit (I would use a 1/2" straight). None of these items are for use exclusively for mortice and tendons. They all have many applications.
Burt
Charles,
"Has anyone had pretty good success cutting tenons using a band saw or any other methods?" I have cut most of my tenon cheeks recently using the bandsaw, fast and it works well. I can also cut them on the router table and use the Incra miter on both the BS and Router table.
The bandsaw allows me to resaw and recycled woods....saves a lot.
I've got to jump on the EZ bandwagon (over the Festool as well). The pace of innovation and enhancement to that tool is remarkable. I have a Delta cabinet saw, and if I were to do it all over again, in my small shop, I'd definately go with the EZ approach.
The whole concept of this approace - "dead wood", where the tool moves and not the wood - will give you safer and more accurate cuts.
You mentioned dado blades. I'm finding that I don't use them as much as I thought. For rabbits and dados I'd rather use the router, and the EZ makes that very safe, accurate and repeatable. For tenons, I've started using floating tenons for door frame type applications. I'll still use regular tenons for through applications, and for larger stock (think workbench frames) but as was mentioned there are other excellent solutions to cutting them.
Disclosure - I don't have one and haven't used one. But the pro's who are using them and raving about them (here and at Breaktime) have me convinced!
Hi Charles - I agonized over which table saw to buy for several months before recently selecting a Grizzly G1023SLW for $975. It is included in the Fine Woodworking magazine issue just out. If the other power tools you are looking at include a router the G1023SLW has a $200 or so router table included. I added a 220V outlet for $120 -$75 of which was for 100-feet of #10 wire. The mobile base is only $69 more, all these extras add up but maybe the mobile base can be added a few months later~!
To keep within $800 I would consider the Sawstop contractors saw, and I think the zip-code Craftsman may be within that range also.
Regards- Gary
You are welcome, my pleasure absolutely
I have the EZ system. It's a great tool for sheet goods. Also great for tapered cuts. However I'm not about to let go of my dreams for a new tablesaw to replace my janky jobsite saw. It is easy to use and setup but it still takes longer between cuts to align at both ends > clamp at both ends > grab your saw > run it through.
I just finished my first 8 feet of fence I'm putting around my backyard. Its a rather regal design, so there are a lot of pieces big and small. To have done it with the EZ would have been an exhausting nightmare. With a TS it went very quick.
Another thing to be mindful of with the EZ is your depth of cut is a lot less than you'll get from a TS.
I don't mean to knock it. I really do love it. For big sheets its the bomb and I will likely never deal with buying/making a super-wide auxiliary table for my table saw. Whatever you decide I would definitely put it high on the wish list. Dino is a great guy to deal with too. Personally answered my questions/problems, sent me a few extra parts with my orders.
As far as the arbor issue on the TS3650, from what I've seen on the Ridgid forum, folks got their faulty one replaced for free. Unless the one you buy has been sitting at your HD for years though, this shouldn't be a problem
Hi bretwalda.
It is easy to use and setup but it still takes longer between cuts to align at both ends > clamp at both ends > grab your saw > run it through.
That was before the repeaters.
Not only you don't have to align and clamp the rail to the work piece., but you don't even have to move the fence when cutting smaller pieces from a larger board. The repeater arms can be calibrated with a small knob so you don't even have to allow for the sawblade.
Your cut-off can be the good piece and you never have to deal with kickbacks or inaccuracy. Works similar to the meat slicing machine but only safer as you never have to hold the wood.
The narrowest piece of wood that you can cut is 1/8".
If you have quick time video you should visit our photo-video gallery and see the whole system in action.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Cabinet-maker-in-action
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/the-repeaters-in-action
Thanks.
YCF Dino
Eurekazone.
Edited 5/10/2006 7:06 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Fine Woodworking 184 that just came out has a review on cabinet saws, and PM2000 and Sawstop tied for best overall, ( $2,100 & $3,270 ) while the Grizzly G10232SL got best value at $975
This out of like 13 saws. - all 3hp cabinet saws.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Charles,
With your emphasis on "bang for the buck". let me offer another solution to your cutting needs. The EZ Smart woodworking system has been developed to replace the table saw. When you add the Smart router kit, you add functions that would cost thousands to add with conventional tooling.
I first got involved with the system last fall and it has repaced my job site table saw and my panel saw in the shop. My shop smith pin router is up for sale and my drill press that I use only for euro hinges is in danger of going away.
This system offers super quality cuts. Just this week, I discovered that with a 40 tooth Freud Diablo blade I can cut formica good side up.
Add the repeaters to the system and you can do same width cuts as many times as you wish and not have to measure.
When you have a chance, take a couple of minutes and go to http://www.Eurekazone.com
Check out the photo gallery.
Burt
BG, I think you are so right, but where were you when I bought saw in in 74. I have always regretted not getting a cabinet saw for everything you mentioned.
Oldtool,
Back in '74' I was madly in love....with a woman that would never change...we married that Sept. Oh well, It's nice to know you think I was right about the cabinet saw...lol
Living within driving distance of a Grizzly showroom has its advantages (I do too!). That being said, if you decide to look at hybrid saws, consider the C__ C--- C...raftsman. Ahch! there I said it. Their somewhat new "ZIP code saw" is a hybrid wherein the motor/arbor stuff is attached to the frame, not the table. Therefore, the blade to miter slot setting is done by moving the table, not loosening the trunnion bolts and using a 2x4 and a hammer.
So many people have bought this saw and reported excellent results, it's amazing (at least to me, since generally I hate Craftsman power tools). You can get it with a Biesemeyer fence. Waiting for coupons or sales can bring down the price significantly.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I give another recomendation to the Ridgid contractors saw. It is a very well made saw with a smart design that is an improvement over the 60 years of saws before it.
Mike
If a trip to Muncy PA with a truck is an option, consider their summer sale on June 17th--you could get a 1023 quite cheap. Get there early, it's always very crowded (but they do have lots of equipment).
Use the search option here, there has been a lot of good posts on the new Sears hybrid, and if you can stack the discounts - sale, sears club, 10% off for applying for their credit card (if you do not have one).. you can get the price down to $700 is +/-
From what you have said in two or so posts, my advice would be no table saw. I think a TS is a crappy first tool. Its dangerous, its expensive, and its hard to select if you aren't a skilled woodworker. Consequently, I think a lot of woodworkers "over buy" just because they don't want to buy "wrong". We've heard from a few here who recognize you don't need the best TS. Gary Rogokowski agrees with the non-essential nature of the TS (see his article in FWW T&S a couple years back entitled (something like) "First 5 power tools and why none of them are the table saw")
I also don't think you NEED a TS. You can buy solid wood in the widths and thicknesses you need- even at a home center.
Storms: Not sure what a TS would do for you there. You can buy 1x1 stock at home depot, finger jointed together, choose the straight pieces. You may need a good chop saw, for this job.
Picket fence:You shouldn't waste your time ripping all the pickets for your wife's fence. You buy those and put them up with an air nailer or screws.
Adirondack chair: At least some adirondack chairs are built with framing lumber- no ripping neccessary.
Furniture: The amount of ripping in an end table or child's bed isn't sufficient to justify spending $1000 on a saw. If it took me a week (and cost me a week off from work) to rip all the material for those projects by hand, I'd be ahead financially and I'd be able to park my car in the garage to boot! But it doesn't take that long. Stock prep by hand really isn't that big a deal. We all struggle with joinery and the TS doesn't really help there.
Cabinetry: The problem you'll face (and I'm in this situation as we speak) is building kitchen cabinets out of flake board or plywood. I'm just finishing two add-on cabinets made entirely by hand and it was a pain. Traditional 18th joinery doesn't require the quality of saw cuts (for butt-joinery) that drywall screwed together plywood cabinets do. I gave up making plywood drawers. My plywood was bent, and my tools don't work it well, so I DT'ed up maple for drawers instead. Saved me a lot of frustration. Frankly, I wished I had a TS during this job. But its done now and I'll probably never do that job again. I've made cabinets and book shelves out of solid white pine that would probably look good in your 1920 colonial with little more than a few hand tools. This is fun and would add some authentic charm. The joinery was all nails and hand made T&G with hand cut beaded edges. The was very little ripping. These jobs went pretty quick.
If nothing else, I'd put off buying the TS until you really really need it. You may be surprised at how well you can get on without it. At least the first few projects you mentioned shouldn't require it.
I know people disagree with me. Remember that there is a huge industry with effective advertising (like Norm) working against this view point. I'm not holding my breath for the checks from hand saw manufacturers! PAX isn't going to host my PBS show! :)
Good luck
Adam
P.S. Welcome to a wondeful hobby. Sharing my hobby/profession with my children has been a source of great happiness for me. Having a safe shop with no electric tools has allowed me to work on my house, in my house, (no dust, no noise, and very little space) and build furniture without becoming a hermit. My babies play at my feet in the plane shavings while I work. Their youth is too short, and my home needs too much work to sacrifice one for the other.
Edited 5/10/2006 12:32 pm ET by AdamCherubini
Hey Adam,
Yep, I disagree......I can see where you are coming from and respect your opinion. I , however, can't imagine getting by without a tablesaw. I think the thing that would kill my enthusiasm for a new hobby the quickest would be frustration. Lets face it, cutting up stock square and straight is a whole lot faster and easier on a tablesaw than with hand tools. Especially for a relative beginner. For someone who is experienced with hand tools and time is no issue, I'll buy it. Bare bones you would need hand saws and hand planes. A method to sharpen these. You would need a sturdy bench with a vise to secure the work piece. Those items cost $$ not to mention the learning curve=frustration associated there.
You mentioned purchasing stock already to size. I can think of nothing more frustrating than having to design around off the shelf sizes.
Since when are hand tools so much safer to use than power tools? In my twenty years at this profession, the worst injuries I have witnessed have all been caused by hand tools. I have taken stitches three times all from the use(misuse) of hand tools.
To each his own......
-Paul
Dear Uncle,I can't argue with anything you've written. I think you made excellent points. I'd like to underline that one about the workbench. Power tools need space, but they seem to require little else. Hand tools on the other hand, can be very difficult to use without a bench and sharpening equipment. This shouldn't be underestimated. Also, you can't come back from a trip to woodcraft with hand tools that will instantly do beautiful work. They require hard won skills.Adam
Hey Adam,
What makes woodworking such a dynamic pursuit is the large variety of different ways to accomplish a single task.
I enjoy these forums for the same reason.
Thanks,
-Paul
Questions about the EZ Smart and angles - take a look at this link
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/safe-and-fun
Charles,
Did you buy the TS yet?
Buyer
Operations Research, Systems Analysis and Woodworking
Decades ago, I participated in a DoD symposium on military applications of Operations Research and Systems Analysis. The keynote speaker told a story which I will never forget. It is quite applicable to the New Woodworkers Forum in Knots.
He said: Someone asked me what is the difference between Operations Research and Systems Analysis. It is simple. if you ask an Operations Researcher which washer and dryer you should buy, he/she will make a matrix of all of the available washers and dryers and the parameters of each, and will give a weight to each parameter. They will fill out all of the columns of parameters on each model, and apply the weights. Then they will do a statistical analysis and give you the conclusion: You should buy the Model 1424 washer and dryer.
A Systems Analyst, on the other hand, when asked the same question will ask you: How many people in your family? How many loads do you do a week? How far do you live from a laundromat?
The analogy to woodworkers (especially New Woodworkers) wondering what saw (or any other tool) to buy is obvious. There are different ways to answer the question. The Operations Research approach is to list at all the different models available, and scrutinize the parameters of each, and conclude that one of them is best for you. The System Analysis approach is to think outside the bun for a while, and examine whether there are other ways to get your intended job done, while getting more experience for making a more appropriate decision. Possibly, the best thing to do is to see if there is a woodworking club or school nearby at which you can get some experience before you make a costly purchase.
So which is the best saw to buy? Maybe it's not yet time to buy a saw? I really liked Adam Cherubini's answer. He must be a systems analyst.
Enjoy,
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled