THE MISSION: Customer would like to have a “brilliant” white finish on all the cabinets in an upcoming renovation. Not just white–BRILLIANT/BLINDING white. Cabinets are to be constructed from poplar.
I have tried many different products, techniques, and concoctions. I really don’t want to talk about what I have succeeded or failed at because I would like a fresh perspective. I simply want to be certain that I have exhausted every avenue.
Thanks
Replies
There is probably a "silver white" in shiny enamel available at the paint store.
How about using HPL? They've got brilliant whites that you could never achieve with paint. (Of course this'll scrap the poplar).
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
(Of course this'll scrap the poplar).
David shame on you.. I use Poplar all the time for many things. OK so it may split along the grain if whacked really hard and it dents.. I still like that wood anyway.
A nice coat of good old de-waxed shellac and whatever paint you want. I do sand the coats of paint I will admit. OK, so I wait along while between coats. I find enamel paints work the best for what I do.
By the way.. Sure hope things a 'little' better around your neck of the woods for you and your family... and all others..
Will, maybe you misunderstood me...
If he used HPL (High Pressure Laminates) like Formica, he'd have to put them over something different than poplar. I also use poplar all the time, but it's not suitable as a substrate. We use at least 500 bd.ft of poplar every month on painted kitchen cabinet parts.Thanks for asking, things here are quieter, except that we've got elections next week. Regards,David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
but it's not suitable as a substrate..
Somehow I lost it on .. as a substrate.
I should read more carefully!
The brilliance of the white will also be affected by the smoothness of the finish. Think of how perfectly flat a piece of float glass is, and your in the ballpark.
And once the woodworking is at that level, your finish must also be perfect. No brushstrokes, no orangepeel, no flow lines. I'm thinking sprayed lacquer, in a pro booth.
If you have no spray equipment, you might be stuck with alkyd-oil finihses, or polyurethanes (oil-based). I've never seen a brushed-on water-based finish except that I've also seen the brushstrokes.
What about conversion varnish tinted white?
When in similar situations I almost always contract the finishing out. Usually ends up cheaper in the long run, and my finisher(s) are not only set up to do this type of work properly, they know the best products to use to achieve the desired finish. Top notch results as well... Of course I just roll the cost into the bid. Jimmy
BEWARE..... The color your customer SEES depends on the lighting in the room. Before you commit to painting, make a color sample and have the customer look at it in the room and with the lighting that will be used.
I recently had cataract surgery done on one eye. WOW, what a difference between my 'fixed' eye and the one the doctor did not touch. Bottom line .... Your idea of brilliant white is not necesarily your customers idea of brilliant white.
There is a brilliant white laminate out there. I've seen it. I don't really think you can achieve the same color with paint, unless it is a super glossy finish. The only problem with glossy finish is that it shows every defect in the wood
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
My 2c worth:
1. Ensure that the wood is perfectly smooth. Use filler at joints and sand it down.
2. The undercoat is the key. Apply a first cost. Sand down well. Apply second, sand smooth.
3. I have found that a fairly runny paint, applied with a foam brush, can give very good results but nothing can beat a spray finish.
Thanks for all your thoughts. At this point, I am down to spraying conversion varnish--tinted white--and then polishing; or spraying the whitest enamel I could find.
I have jotted a lot of your suggestions and have them hanging on the board out in the shop.
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