Replies

1. 
   BG | Dec 17, 2008 10:44pm | #1

   Woodhard,

   I don't have the DVD but, like many on here, built the router table many years ago. Perhaps we can answer your questions? ( of course you may end up with a round coffee table :))

1. 
   WoodNicheWorks | Dec 18, 2008 12:51am | #2

   O.K. Ready? ( Section Through top) What is that? The top illustration has a mitre guage track as 1" wide by 1/2" deep? And the slots in the fence blocks? Keyhole bit? Also blocks under top? For What? Thanks so much!

1. 
   BG | Dec 18, 2008 03:36am | #9

   woodhard,Hmmmm..."blocks under top"..the top actually just sits on the case, does not get attached. The "blocks" are positioned such that they mate with the corners of the case and keep the top from sliding.The mitre guage top others have addressed. However, if you do install one, buy track first before cutting top. I like it for attaching stuff, but have pushed down too hard and put a stripe across my work piece from the track (sigh!)
   "Keyhole bit"...I just used a router bit with cheap star handles($1 each) to attach the fence to the top and, in general, modified the top/fence pieces to meet my own needs. Norm designed two router tables, the key difference was the top/fence design. His first design had a short fence (4-5" tall) and second was about 12" tall...with a track to accept feather boards on the fence.

   Edited 12/17/2008 7:43 pm ET by BG

1. 
   WoodNicheWorks | Dec 18, 2008 03:41am | #11

   Thanks so much BG!

2. 
   BruceS | Dec 18, 2008 12:51am | #3

   The VHS/DVD's are exactly what you see on the TV shows.  And I agree his plans really lack substance.

   Crossed in cyber space.  For the miter track. 1. I would order it first on line, as they very ever so slightly.  Then route the dado for it once you know the exact size.

   The t-slot on the fence is for attaching hold down feather boards.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   
   

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   Edited 12/17/2008 4:58 pm ET by BruceS

1. 
   [email protected] | Dec 18, 2008 02:10am | #4

   I recommend leaving the miter track out.  The miter track doesn't really add any thing to the effectiveness of table, and does add a potential catch point, that can be unsafe. 

   You can use sleds that reference off the front of the table, or from the fence, just as easily. 

   On a router table you don't have the same issues you do on something like a table saw, where the parallelism of the track, and the cutting blade had a distinct effect on your safety.  Irrespective of what angle the piece is fed past the bit on a router table, it ends up tangent to the cutting edge.   

1. 
   BruceS | Dec 18, 2008 02:30am | #5

   I use my miter gauge track quite a bit.   I use my delta steel sliding shaper jig/sled,  I use feather boards either single or stacked quite a lot.  IMHO I find it quite indispensable.  I've never had anything catch on the track, except dust.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   WoodNicheWorks | Dec 18, 2008 02:35am | #6

   So that top section view in 2 pieces is wrong?

1. 
   BruceS | Dec 18, 2008 02:43am | #7

   I will have to look at the plans at work, if we still have them.   But still confident on miter track and slot for fence(feather board instalation).Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   WoodNicheWorks | Dec 18, 2008 03:03am | #8

   Thanks so much Buce-I'm sure i'll have more questions-Arthur

1. 
   BruceS | Dec 18, 2008 03:40am | #10

   Tip,  Before you build the cabinet figure out what router and type of lift,if needed, you are going to use.  You may have to modify the plans to accomodate the router.

   I would go for 3hp or better,  then you will be able to use any sized router bit available.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   WoodNicheWorks | Dec 18, 2008 04:24am | #12

   Yes-I planned that way ahead-I have a 3.5h Triton Thanks for advice!