I was just in the shop taking a thin edge off some cutting board blanks when suddenly the motor on my Craftsman contractor saw gave off a thick, dark cloud of smelly smoke.
I turned the saw off until the smoke cleared.. then gave it a “test run”. It fired up so I quickly continued edge cutting the remainder of my cutting boards until they were all completed.
There’s no more smoke.. but something clearly is wrong. Where do I go from here? To the store, I know.. but for what? I purchased my saw new about six years ago.
Thanks very much. Oh, and how do I dress all these cutting boards? Is there a safe oil to use?
Bill
Replies
Referring to Winemane's response I say:
Yep .
For Finishes see :
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26893
and in current issue #201
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=31473
Edited 11/9/2008 2:06 pm by roc
Could be a couple of things.
Single phase motors like this have a start winding, centrifugal start switch, and start capacitor.
If you start up a motor like that after about 1 second you will hear a click as the switch opens up and turns off the start winding. And when you turn off the as it coast down it you will it click when the switch closes.
The in most motors start system is not rated to run continuously and the start winding or capacitor will burn out.
The capacitor is a usually in a lump on the motor. It the capacitor or start winding is bad the motor won't start. Or start very, very, very slowing.
Some higher efficency motors are capacitor start, capacitor run. that will have two lumps on it and the "start" winding is beefer. If the run capacitor blew then the motor will still start and run, but not have as much power.
Now I see to potential causes. One is that is that start switch stuck and the smoke was from the start winding and capacitor. If that was the case that system is "damaged" but how bad is hard to tell. Nor how long it will last.
If it was the run cap then no long term affect.
Here is what I would do.
Most motors are TEFC (total enclosed fan cooled), but if yours is open blow out any saw dust. They often interfere with the centrifigul switch and also causes over heating.
And replace the capacitors.
Those are generic. Check the ratings on them and also the physical size. You can get them at industrial supply houses like Grangers, electric motor shops, electrical supply, and some hardware stores.
They are cheap enough.
But don't be and save the penny's for a possible new motor in a few months.
Thanks very much, Bill for the comprehensive and expert reply I was seeking. The motor still runs right now without any problem, but I'm not planning to use it anymore. I will probably look into buying another motor from Sears online as was suggested. I really like the saw except for the fact it's so underpowered. It has served me really well and until I can see my way clear to wiring for 220 and buying a serious 3HP cabinet saw, this one will get a new motor and a couple more years of use.Again, thanks very much,Bill
I experienced the same thing with a Craftsmen contractor table saw a few years ago. I figured the motor was ruined. I waited a few minutes and started it back up. It started quickly and sounded normal. There was some saw dust in the vents on the motor, so I blew them out with compressed air. I continued to use it cautiously figuring the circuit breaker would pop if anything was truly wrong. It happened again after cutting a few more pieces. This time there was a bad noise as well as the smell of burning rubber. I checked the belt and pulleys. The set screw on the arbor pulley had backed out causing the belt to run badly out of alignment. Upon inspecting the belt, it was evident that the belt was damaged. I realigned the pulleys and replaced the belt. After that, I would periodically check the pulley set screws. It never happened again, and I used the saw for a few more years until I sold it. The smoke was nothing more than burning rubber.
Thanks, I will definitely check that because I had noticed the saw was vibrating recently. It my indeed be what you described.Bill
I am curious what the resolution to your problem was.
I just today ordered a new motor (179 bucks) from Craftsman. Also had to order the motor power cord, pulley and set screws. Also ordered a new V belt for good measure. Paid the heavy freight to get it here by next Tuesday so I can work on it over the holiday. Before I removed the old motor today in preparation for next week, I fired it up.. and it worked just fine for the few minutes I had it running. But I decided to get the new motor rather than risk a breakdown while I'm in the midst of making my fruit and cheese cutting boards for Christmas gifts.
I considered scrapping the saw in favor of a new one.. but times being what they are..Thanks,Bill
If you noticed a vibration before you had the smoke, I would bet that you had the same problem I did. You were also cutting hard, thick wood at the time. That saw has a single, gravity tensioned V-belt. It will slip when cutting thick hardwood. When the belt slips, it makes black, stinky smoke. The smell of smoked electrical components is distinctively different than burning rubber. Contractor style saws are designed to cut plywood. When you cut 2" thick hardwood, they complain. I finally took a wedge of oak and tapped it into the motor mount to add tension to the belt. It worked reasonably well.I understand that you want to be safe and not take any chances, but if it starts fast and runs strong, there is no damage to the motor. If you had smoked the start capacitors, it would start slowly, like a window fan, if at all. If you had damaged the windings, it would likely pop the circuit breaker and certainly wouldn't run with full power. If it runs like normal, it's fine. I doubt that the motor has run capacitors. If it does, and they are smoked, you would notice a decrease in performance.
I know believe you are correct. I have checked and the set screws on the pulley were backed out.. one more than the other. The motor i ordered is refundable but every single other thing is not. I believe I am going to go with the new rigging, and hold the old motor in abeyance against the day it is needed, the new motor and contiguous parts will give me the proper illusion that I am once again on track for a mystically more powerful set up what with a new pulley and set screws and v belt. After six years I expect I rather merit a bit of serendipity. I dearly hope the motor power cord makes satisfactory connection to both motor and starter switch or I've come up a semester short on electrical shop. May have to enlist the help of my Harley friend, Mortimer Wiggle Switch. He can make anything work.Cheers and off to bed thenBill
billballeza
I use walnut oil on cutting boards, but mineral oil ok too.
As per the article link forwarded to me I am thinking of using shellac because of it's water protecting capabilities and it's resilience.Thanks,Bill
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