In the past few months, I have read many postings that mention the Woodrat. Most of the owners seem happy with the product. I have viewed the demo video a few times. If you own one, can you post you thoughts on:
Types of joints that you think it really shines on
Its limitations
Do you use it for a replacement for the router table or still do some tasks on the table and some on the Woodrat?
If you lost yours, would you purchase it again?
Replies
Types of joints that you think it really shines on
M&T, mortises for loose tenons up to 1/2", dovetails, boxjoints, sliding DTs.
Its limitations
Operator must have good spatial faculties. Pratical lenght limit for mortising end grain is 4-5 ft. Problem I run into every 10 years!
Do you use it for a replacement for the router table or still do some tasks on the table and some on the Woodrat?
I still use processes learned on a RT that are more comfortable for me.
If you lost yours, would you purchase it again?
Yes
Frank,
I agree with what Knuts said, basically. I would add:
It can be easily used to make angled M&Ts for chairs and similar. Not as quick as a domino, maybe; but pretty near especially if you do batches of similar pieces/cuts.
You can use it as an upside down router table but cutting profiles on edges is more "natural" on a router table, where gravity assists you to keep the workpiece flat and you can see the cutter doing its thing. Also, the rat couldn't cut profiles on curved edges.
Perhaps the best way to think of the rat is as a combined DT and M&T jig (whereas there are two machines sold by Leigh and similar for those functions); with a whole host of additional joint-making capabilities, albeit requiring the user to learn how to use them.
You get versatility and capability in exchange for your commitment to a steep learning curve - athough M&T, DT, finger and sliding DTs (amongst other joints) are pretty easy to learn.
Lataxe
Do you ever feel limited by the types, or spacing, of dovetails that you can do with the Woodrat?
I watched the CD again last night and it looks like sliding DTs are limited to somewhere less than 1 foot. Is this accurate?
The only limit on dovetail spacing is related to the size of the bits. You need to be able to get in with a straight bit to clear the waste between the pins. If the smallest diameter straight bit in your inventory is 1/2" you don't want to cut the sockets so they're 1/4" apart.
I enjoy doing dovetails on my Rat. In my mind the setup is more like handcutting with a machine removing the waste.
Edited to add, it is dead simple to get a symmetrical dovetail layout no matter how wide the stock and if you like random or assymetrical layouts, those are easy too.
Edited 1/29/2008 12:54 pm ET by DaveRichards
Do you ever feel limited by the types, or spacing, of dovetails that you can do with the Woodrat?
I cut all 4 of these drawers before lunch with the rat. Personally, I like the look of even spacing. I've made some with random spacing, but don't have pix.
I watched the CD again last night and it looks like sliding DTs are limited to somewhere less than 1 foot. Is this accurate?
True for the fast and easy way. I used my mortise rail once to cut a pair of 24" DTs. Then I had to cut them into segments so I could slid them in. Except for bookcases, most of my sliders are 2-4" anyway. Rail to stile.
Edited 1/29/2008 1:03 pm ET by knuts
Edited 1/29/2008 1:07 pm ET by knuts
Those are very nice. Look at the lovely thin pins.
re: Sliding dovetails. Length is limited to about 12" if you are pulling the router out toward you. I cut the tails in the east-west direction with the router locked in place. I turn the board around to cut the opposite side so the tail is centered. How you cut the socket side is dependent upon where it is on the board. For sockets longer than the north-south travel, I might consider cutting them with a handheld router.
Frank,
As others have mentioned, the sliding DT length is limited, although the rat will deal with most bookshelf and similar depths. I use a handheld router against a straight edge for longer sliding DTs,
The rat allows DTs of any spacing you like. It also cuts fine DTs that approach the houndstooth variety, although it can't achieve ultimate thinness (ie saw kerf width at the apex).
As others have said, the use of HSS allow DT bits with very sharp edges but also very thin necks. This is how the super-fine DTs can be made on the rat.
When making the tails, it's possible to gang-cut a number of parts. This and the ability to climb cut safely (as well as those sharp HSS bits) means that you can eliminate all breakout. It also speeds the work and makes symmetry between similar parts (eg a series of drawers all of the same depth; or a series of similar boxes).
I like to vary the width of the DTs across the edge of the piece (eg a drawer corner) but have symmetry too. You can do this by cutting a central pass with the DT bit then one to the side, followed by reversing the workpiece(s) in the rat's vise and cutting again without moving the rat's carriage. Repeat at the other end(s), if required. Then move the carriage out again and cut another pair/quad. Repeat until all the required tail-sockets are cut.
The spaccing between each move of the carriage can be different...or the same, its up to you.
Just as a reminder, here is an old post: ;-)
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=29387.24
Lataxe
Types of joints that you think it really shines on
In addition to what's been mentioned, I like it for dovetails. Primarily because it isn't limited to using the fat carbide cutters. After using the slim HSS cutters, I wouldn't machine cut dovetails with carbide cutters again. The only time I use a carbide dovetail cutter is for unexposed sliding dovetails or for cutting shallow grooves for label holders or whatever.
It's also nice because it is always ready to go since it hangs on the wall. Last Saturday I used it to cut a rectangular opening for an electrical outlet in the face of the box I used for my dust collector remote. The weekend before I made sliding dovetails for a wall mounted ski rack.
Its limitations
Sometimes I wish it had a longer east-west travel although that's not often. The other night I designed a thing that would allow for longer pieces to be cut. I did it for a fellow who wanted to make large raised panels. (He was considering combining a WoodRat and Little Rat to get the desired travel. Gulp!)
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Do you use it for a replacement for the router table or still do some tasks on the table and some on the Woodrat?
I have a very nice router table. Got it before the Rat. Most of the time it is a horizontal surface that collects stuff. I do still use it for some things. I think it is easier to use the table for large pieces since you aren't fighting gravity. I'm waiting to get the remote controlled, selective antigravity device for my shop. Saving my pennies anyway. :)
If you lost yours, would you purchase it again?
Absolutely!
I have a DeWalt DW625 with the Eliminator Chuck and a Plunge Bar. The Eliminator chuck is an excellent addition to a router on the Rat.
And although you didn't ask, I would add the digital scales for at least east-west if not also north-south, a precision stop, the dovetail angle guages and the aluminum fixed fences from the Craftsman Gallery. I'd also get some of the Craftsman Gallery's HSS dovetail bits.
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I haven't used mine in over a year.
It's really great at m&t joints.
I couldn't make quality dovetails to save my life. Spent over 40 hrs. studying and practicing and could not make one joint that looked good. I'll try one more time before I give up on it.
I really don't even think about the WR when I need to rout a joint or profile other than a m&t. And with the addition of the Domino I may never use the WR again.
Would not purchase again.
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