Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jun 01, 2009 03:10pm | #1

   Planesaw,

   Linseed oil most likely, was what was originally on them.  A coat or two of shellac will do the job (keep glue from sticking), and is less of an issue as far as wicking out onto what you are clamping, or darkening the wood of the clamps themselves (an issue for conservators and collectors).

   Ray

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Jun 01, 2009 05:33pm | #2

   Ray,

   Thanks.  Although clamps like these are almost impossible to sell (no one seems to want them -- except for people who seem to wind up collecting things like them) I doubt there is much value in them, from a conservator's standpoint.  If they were new-old stock, still in the box, the value would clearly be different.

   However, they are very dark, probably from the original finish plus age.  I planed the sides of one clamp and found that the wood is probably maple.  I would like to put some sort of a finish on them that would be similiar in "color" or shade to what they would have originally looked like on the shelf of the hardware store.  Since every wooden clamp I have (about 10) is dark, I am wondering if the finish used on them originally was somewhat dark.

   I like the idea of shellac to keep glue from sticking.

   Alan - planesaw

    

1. 
   joinerswork | Jun 02, 2009 04:13am | #3

   Alan,

   Linseed oil darkens with age, plus it tends to collect dirt, as it doesn't dry hard, like a varnish or shellac.

   Ray

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Jun 02, 2009 04:39am | #4

   Ray,

   Well, that's probably it.  Would it have been just linseed oil?  or Boiled linseed oil?

   Alan

2. 
   dkellernc | Jun 02, 2009 11:28pm | #6

   "Since every wooden clamp I have (about 10) is dark, I am wondering if the finish used on them originally was somewhat dark."

   Alan - There's a high probablility that they never had a finish on them, at least if they're 19th century or before (and that would likely be the case if the rods are wooden threads).

   There were some tool-making firms that offered "french polish" (shellac) on their highest-quality wooden planes, but it was an extra-cost option.  Most the UK and 19th century American firms supplied planes with no finish at all.  Extrapolating to the clamps (which would've definitely been a whole lot cheaper, and less attractive for embellishment (i.e., a finish)), I'd guess that most were delivered as raw wood, with the end-user deciding if they were to have a finish.

   The dark appearance is completely normal for old wooden tools.  Like linseed oil, human skin oil darkens with age, and would've probably been mixed with dust, dirt, and grease.  I've a few examples of wooden planes that weren't used for whatever reason, and they're shockingly bright compared to the well-used ones that you find at a flea market.

   If you intend to use them, I'd suggest no finish, or if you wish, finish all but the bearing surface of the clamp.  A slick finish like oil and wax or shellac will make them a lot fussier to use, as they won't want to stay where you put them until they're clamped tight.

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Jun 03, 2009 03:40am | #7

   dkellernc,

   Thanks.  I appreciate the historic info.  Gives me good info and context to bring the clamps back to life -- user life that is.  Makes good sense not to put anything on two faces of the clamp that will do the clamping.

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   dkellernc | Jun 03, 2009 05:31pm | #8

   Alan - One thing I did to some of my maple-jawed clamps after I got frustrated at their propensity to slip off before being completely tightened was to glue a scrap of thin leather to the inside of each jaw.  That makes them really grippy, whereas the very smooth maple was pretty slick.

   In Michael Dunbar's article a while back on making wooden clamps, he notes that metal-barred clamps have a tendency to have a very steep hold/release curve.  In other words, there's very little tightening between full grip and "fall off".  In contrast, he notes that ones with wooden threads don't do this - the work can shift a little and the clamp will still grip because of the flex of the wooden thread shafts.

   So the leather-lining idea might not provide you with much benefit.

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Jun 03, 2009 06:31pm | #9

   Steve and David,

   Thanks for your info and suggestions.  Appreciate your time and wisdom in answering.

   Alan

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 02, 2009 11:23pm | #5

   I leave mine unfinished. If you want to clean them up a bit, you can use 000 steel wool and Murphys Oil Soapand then wipe them down with a slightly damp rag. You can coat them with shellac or Boiled linseed oil, but that is not really needed. DO NOT put linseed oil on the 'clamping faces' as it will leave oil marks on whatever you're clamping for weeks and weeks, if not months and months. A bit of paste wax on the male threads will also make these clamps work easier. Again, just a thin, light application. More is not better.
   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

3. 
   mike4244 | Jun 04, 2009 03:11am | #10

   My grandfather made the ferrules,threaded rods and dowel pins for handscrews,his neighbor made the maple blocks.None of the handscrews that I saw had a finish. They sold the handscrews to woodshops in schools from New York state to north Carolina and west to South Bend Indiana.This was their retirement job.

   mike

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Jun 04, 2009 04:58am | #11

   Thanks Mike.  I have a pair similar to what you describe that I bought from my Dad's hardware store in Arkansas about 30 to 35 years ago.  No finish on them.   The handle on each of the threaded rods is "maple" color, but a plastic-like substance.  Has a sticker that says HEMPE Manufacturing Co.  Retail was $10.47.

   Alan - planesaw