I’ve got a varnished piece I need to strip. I thought I saw something recently about a new product that doesn’t need total ventilation to use like the old zip strip goop. With the low temps. here I’d like to do this in my shop. Any ideas?
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Replies
NMP is good, DBE is better (speaking strictly fume wise)
About strippers No, no, not that kind of stripper.
Edited 1/30/2008 6:03 pm ET by byhammerandhand
Try Citristrip. It works well and smells like oranges. Beats BIX and ZipStrip for odor by far. Forget the 3M safety strip ! It's next to worthless.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Thanks, I'll check it out.
Warning! Don't let the pretty orange smell catch you without your gloves on! Behind the smell are some potent chemicals. I can't remember which gloves hold up, latex or nitril, but it eats on one of them. Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Lee Valley has a stripper that can be used indoors - non toxic.
If the item is coated with a poly varnish, then you might find that you will need a stripper containing methylene chloride. Many of the so called "safer" strippers have a tough time with oil based poly varnish. It can take a number of applications and long "soak" times. When it's all said an done, the longer time will generate as much contaminated air as using a faster, more aggressive stripper.
In some cases the chemicals and gases from the "safer" strippers can be as dangerous as any others. Be sure to read and heed the MSDS for the product you use.
I think I'm going to see how far I can get with belt and orbital sanders first and see if I can avoid the toxic fumes. Thanks
Belt sander, orbital, no no no! If the piece has any value you will ruin it by taking off all the stain and you may never match it without frustration without end.
No stain on it.
If you plan to stain the item, I would recommend you do not rely on sanding to do a good enough job. Sanding leaves residue finish in the pores of the wood and in the wood itself. This residue can/will impede the absorption of any stain applied on top of it. If you are just going clear coat, then sanding is OK.Howie.........
Thanks for the reply. I will use clear coat.
I saw something at the Atlanta WW Show last week-end I have never seen before. Soy*Gel by http://www.franmar.com and I think Amazon has it through them also. The demo door had 6 coats of paint. Spray it on and let it sit about an hour. Scrap it off with a scraper.
Basically soybean oil in gel form and non toxic. Doesn't have a smell and wipes with water as it doesn't penetrate the wood. Just sits on top and kick's butt. I did not see it used on varnish... but it is advertised to do both paint and varnishes. The lady rep knew her stuff and said it would.
I have never liked any of the strippers and frankly, would rather build a new one than strip an old caked with finish. This stuff changed my mind.
Sarge..
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