Replies

1. 
   leo_in_st_louis | Jul 20, 2012 02:14pm | #1

   Sounds like you already are atuned to the issue. Have a look at various woodworking furniture designs to see how they manage the wood movement with slots or guides. Don't know if the top will crack but solid wood will expand and something will give. 

   Show us a photo of the project thus far. 

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jul 21, 2012 11:16am | #2

   There are several methods for dealing with the expansion/contraction of table tops. One is to elongate the holes through which the screws protrude, so there is room for the screws to travel as thee top expands and contracts. How much the holes should be elongated depends, of course, on the expansion factor of the particular wood.

   Another method is to attach little L-shaped wooden cleats to the top, and have the end of the "L" ride in a groove on the inside of the apron.

   Yet another method is to use what are commonly referred to as "figure-eights" - small metal tabs shaped like an 8, with two screw holes.

3. 
   aew | Jul 31, 2012 03:54pm | #3

   I just purchased the plan for the table and there are several issues with it that frustrate me.  First, to answer your question; I probably will use a screw in the middle of the top on each stretcher and then either elongate the outer holes in the stretchers to facilitate any wood movement or I will use wood clips inserted into groves in the stretchers and screwed to the top to allow for some movement.  A source of frustration with the plan and the Sketchup model is that it isn't readily apparent how the various curves and tapers on the legs are designed.  If I understand the plan, the curves run on the inside and outside of the legs when looking at the table from the front or back and then there is a taper on the inside of the legs on the short sides of the table.  In looking at the video online, this is not clear to me at least.  One would think that Taunton could at least include a written description of how the construction is done.  I know this is an intermediate to advanced project but I'm not so unskilled that I can't read a print and it is not obvious from either the pdf file or the Sketchup file as to the design of the legs.  Probably the last plan I will buy from Taunton.

1. 
   user-64052 | Jul 31, 2012 04:12pm | #4

   perhaps

   if you had a little training in woodworking, you would be able to understand it.  plans are usually just plans . they are not designed to give you a woodworking course with them. Just like buying a house plan, they don't tell you how to build it.  Not fair to blame Taunton on that one

   ron

4. 
   aew | Aug 01, 2012 10:06am | #5

   A typical smarfy comment normal to this forum and exactly why few come here any longer.  A response to assist me instead of denigrating my experience would have been most appropriate.

1. 
   user-64052 | Aug 01, 2012 11:15am | #6

   as Howard explained above

   it would be easier to see a picture along with it.

   ron

2. 
   roc | Aug 02, 2012 01:39am | #9

    Sid,

   These aren't plans for highly seasoned professionals.  Wouldn't hurt to have a hint on the plans here and there for clarification.

   Sheesh Sid check the old meds. might be getting a bit imbalanced.

   AEW,

   Smarfy . . . is that some form of deranged Smurf ?

   I looked it up and found only "small mitochondrion alternate reading frame"  a tumor suppressor that kills cells by type II autophagic death.

   Hmmmm . . . one doesn't know whether to be proud or offended.

   I never hung with the Smurfs much.

   (they are bevel down you know . . . they cut tails first !  Can you imagine ?)

   Not MY sort of crowd.

   anyway

   was this the table

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/19819/hall-table-project-a-lesson-in-curves

   or is it a secret ?

   :   )

   PS: the one I finally ment but couldn't change it to :

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/19819/hall-table-project-a-lesson-in-curves

1. 
   user-64052 | Aug 02, 2012 01:25am | #8

   "curved hall table"

   now does that table you showed look like a curved hall table, or are they just talking about the legs. I thougt that they were referring to the table itself. guess that I realy do need picyures to know what they are talking about. here I was just  thinking about a nice curved table top. I am really glad that you brought it all together for me Roc

   thanks

   ron

1. 
   roc | Aug 02, 2012 01:48am | #10

   Nah it doesn't

   I couldn't get the darn link to change after several attempts to paste this over the top of it

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/19819/hall-table-project-a-lesson-in-curves

   and then the internet here got all jammed so I quit for a while.

   I was thinking I could just paste my intended link over the top of the one I originally put in the link window but it kept the path to the non curved asian table.

   PS: If you read the blue text at the end of my first link it says "lesson-in-curves" but takes you to the other table.

1. 
   user-64052 | Aug 02, 2012 10:01am | #11

   "curved hall table"

   but he meant curved-leg hall table. when he said curved table, I thought that he was discussing a bow fronted table which would be curved.

   that is don's table. he is a member here and quite approachable. I will tell him that he has some distraught patrons here

   ron

5. 
   bones | Aug 01, 2012 11:29am | #7

   many ways to deal with it

   Understanding wood movement and allowing for it to do what comes natural is a key step in this craft.  I still have one of my pieces from shop class in HS that taught me that valuable lesson.  Seeing a picture would help propose a good solution.  Multiple ways of handling the task.  First is the top flat sawn, rift sawn, or quartersawn.   That will let you know how much it will move.  Assuming the wood is kiln dried and been aclamating in your environment for a good while.   Unles we know the what the structure of the table looks like i.e. edgebanding, is it cross banded etc, its hard to make a blanket statement.  If you have a center beam then you can screw directyly into the top in the center and float the outside with enongated holes.  Knowing the thickness of the top will help as well.  

   Depending on the answer to your questions above, you can use one of my favorite methods figure eight brackets.  They hide well and are strong and completely allow for movement (edge attachement).  They are inexpensive and very forgiving.  Another method is wooden blocks in an L shape that  is screwed to the bottom of the table and fits into a slot in the edge banding.  those or great in they are cheap to make out of scrap and allow for movement.   Again not know your piece and the substrate to attach to its hard to help.  If you can post a pic, a good reccomendation will be easy.  Don't over stress it.  Have a good one!

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 02, 2012 12:05pm | #12

   Curved Leg Table.

   *********  DELETED  **********

7. 
   donkondra1 | Aug 03, 2012 12:42pm | #13

   Mounting the top

   Greetings,

   This is the link to the FREE plan for my table, the download plan button is below the left leg of the picture of the table -

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/19819/hall-table-project-a-lesson-in-curves

   Expansion has been taken into account.  The top is 14 1/4" wide, the distance between the two mounting screws is 7".

   If you look closely at the plan you will see that the bored hole on the bottom of the interior stretcher is large enough to accomodate the head of the mounting screw.  The second hole that continues through the stretcher is larger than the diameter of the screws, this allows for the amount of wood movement between the two screws.

   I also notice that the drawing shows the ends of the interior stretchers or rails are square, they are not.

   The end profile is the same as the exterior rails.

   If you or anyone else are unclear as to any other details please feel free to ask.

   Cheers, Don