Replies

1. 
   tsproul | May 22, 2004 07:34am | #1

   I'd screw with unslotted holes in the cabinetry stretcher at the back, towards the wall.  Most counters are placed so that you have no room between counter and wall....so I'll assume you've done this.  The counter is going to want to move so don't fix it to the front of the cabinet.  I'd use slots in the front stretcher of the cabinet and unslotted holes at the back stretcher of the cabinet.

   You'll need slotted holes in the stretchers, going along the length, of the short section.  Both front and back.

   To keep the screws from working loose over time, I'd use a large flat washer, wax the side up against the stretcher to facilitate the ability of the counter to move when it needs to and use a lock washer - split ring works fine or a star washer - between the flat and screwhead.

   It is a bit overkill....but that is a good quantity of good black walnut....you don't want to go replacing it in a few years or find that the countertop has torn your cabinetry apart.  If it doesn't move, doing the work to allow it to move won't hurt.

   Tim

   On the neverending quest for wood.

1. 
   Kell | May 22, 2004 05:31pm | #2

   Tim,

   Thanks for responding.  You've validated what I thought.  My reason for attaching at the front inolves concern that if it does move, the top of the face frame will be exposed.  Attaching at the front and affixing only the back splash to the wall with the counter moving under it, would avoid this.  Thoughts?

   Kell

1. 
   tsproul | May 22, 2004 06:55pm | #3

   countertops get spills and crumbs and every thing else on them. These get wiped off. Without a physical connection...ie a bead of caulk or other seal...between the backsplash and counter...you are inviting a place for dirt and food crumbs and moisture to collect. Invariably, this leads to mold/fungal growth which is disastrous for a wood countertop. You can treat such a problem with bleach if you've a plastic or granite countertop but there are few available disinfectants/cleaners that won't affect the appearance of wood.

   I still recommend letting the countertop move at the front. I would not worry that much about the overhang retracting enough to make the face frame set proud of the counter top. When you size the countertop, keep in mind the humidity that you're at relative to the max and min swings for your home. It is spring so I'll assume you are somewhere in the middle range of the seasonal max and mins. If you expect a total of 1/2 inch movement for the countertop....install the countertop 1/2 inch or more proud of the face frames. 1/2 inch now would leave a 1/4 inch when driest season and 3/4 inch at wettest season. Check with "shrinkulator" for the expected movement and change the measures accordingly.

   You can decrease the amount of movement by trying to incorporate as much QS material in the countertop as you can.....but be sure an entire strip is QS. So...don't butt a 6 footplainsawn strip up against a 2 foot QS strip to make the 8 foot length. Also...IIRC, you plan on a penetrating oil finish and NOT a film finish. Be sure to apply a goodly amount to the underside and backside of the backsplash...and soak...literally soak...the end grain. You can facilitate deep penetration of oils into wood by heating them as hot as you can withstand while applying.Tim

   On the neverending quest for wood.

1. 
   Kell | May 22, 2004 10:49pm | #4

   Those are great points Tim.  Thanks for your input!

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 23, 2004 07:05pm | #5

   I agree stongly with Tim. Fix the back and let the front move back and forth. The biggest cause of rot is fresh water getting in back of the counter and between the counter and back splash. That seam MUST be sealed completely. Make the counter a little wider so that there is some overhang on the front. This will allow the movement without exposing the attachment point below it.Howie.........