Has anyone else seen this beauty:
I copied the picture from Joel’s site (tools for working wood), I hope that’s okay. It sure makes my old 66 look like a flea bit mutt (on the right, obviously):
If money was no object, I know that Windsor beader with all those lovely profiles would be great to have.
Replies
Hi Samson
I've eyed one for a number of years and been thinking of making one. They are beautiful. I like the concept. Not sure how well they work, however.
Incidentally, by coincidence LV/Veritas have just released a beader. Not in the same look stakes, but worth exploring if you want an upgrade on the #66.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Thanks for the tip, Derek, but I am actually quite fond of my 66. So far I need no upgrade, but that Windsor sure is pretty and has LOTS of profiles.
Have you tried the Veritas?
Hi Samson
I have one. It arrived yesterday, so I can't really say more than it is a good representation of LV/Veritas' typical innovative style - for example, a multi-position fence (of decent length - one of my criticisms of the #66 is the short fence). I have had a brief play and it has promise. I'm used to using a Stanley #66 (with a modified fence - see my website) and, mainly, scratch stocks. I have made and occasionally use a wooden beader. The Veritas is similar in design and feel to the woodie.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Not sure how well they work, however.
Do you mean the Windsor or beaders in general? Because if you mean beaders, I can tell you that they work extremely well.
________________________
Oops, simultaneous post. I see from your new message that you must have meant the Windsor design.
Edited 12/13/2008 12:28 am ET by Samson
Nah, I know beaders work well ... I mean the Windsor - how well does it work?. I recall a negative report, but don't hold me to this. I am curious how rigidly they clamp the blade. That would be their weakness, if they have one.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Cliff Ober on WN thinks the design is flawed. Perhaps that is the negative report you remember Derek?
I any case, this is a thread on WN that discusses a *little* about the KC Windsor beader:
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=handtools&Number=3701950&Forum=f11&Words=%2Bwindsor%20%2Bbeader&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=3701950&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post3701950
Really, one negative and one positive from people who have one. I myself have always loved the looks of them. The gadgetry index goes up and that appeals to me at some level.
Take care, Mike
Unlike the LN "66", the new LV is designed primarily to push rather than pull. I've just briefly tried mine out, but pushing definitely worked better for me. Size is hard to tell from the website. The long wooden handle is about 5 1/2 inches, but if space is tight the tool can be reversed left-right. The fence is held in place by one screw at the end. It fits into a shaped depression that limits slop, but unless you tighten it down hard it tends to move a little -- might be a weakness.
Jim
On their site, LV says it will work either way - push or pull.
On my 66, I value the large sole as a register that helps a great deal to ensure uniformity (especially of depth, of course) and prevent chatter. How do you find the "dowel" as a sole on the LV? I'd worry that my attack angle (angle of the blade)would be harder to consistently maintain on long pulls. Probably, none of these things are a big deal, but just things I'm curious about.
They both say they work on push and pull, but LN says something like "generally while pulling" and LV says designed for pushing, but demonstrates a grip for each method. I generally pull scrapers and spokeshaves, so tried that first, but pushing worked better for me, with better control. I bought the tool because my hands are arthritic, and fat handles suit me, so likely others will feel differently about it.
The sole on the LV is 3/4 x 2 1/2 inches, dead flat and quite weighty for its size. If you use the pushing position advised by LV, with both thumbs on the central clamp bar that holds the blade , and with the handles inside your hands, then your own weight holds the tool pretty firmly on the workpiece. I tried holding it further out on the handles on the pull stroke, much like a spokeshave, and it was harder to control. I've only had the tool a couple of days, so I haven't really had time to give it an extended run on long pieces. Incidentally, you can swap it around for left-hand or right-hand use.
The fence is 3 position, straight on one side, curved on the other, and bullnosed at one end for complex profiles. It screws on at one end, and has limited play built into it by means of a squared socket. Squaring it exactly only really matters for the straight edge, but I had a little difficulty with that, both setting it square and tightening it enough. I'm so cack-handed these days that that may be peculiar to me. Fortunately I had the chance to try it out for size in the store. It's a lot more comfortable for me than my old shopmade scratch stocks, and wasn't expensive.
Jim
Jim and Derek,
I took you guys to be talking about this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=32679&cat=1,41182
but now I'm gathering you were actually talking about this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=62030&cat=51&ap=1
D'oh!
Derek and Jim,
Now that I realize which Veritas beader you actually were referring to, I'm wondering, where do the scrapings go? If you look at my 66 in the first post, you'll see the remnants of some shavings from a meager size bead still lingering near the blade. Where do such shavings go on the new Veritas? It seems as though they would be trapped under the sole as you pushed the tool along. I assume I'm missing something, but I'm curious what: so how are the chips ejected?
You start scraping with the tool slightly tilted, so there's room under the sole for the shaving to curl along ahead of the blade. By the time you progress to having the sole flat on the workpiece, the groove you've made is deep enough to accommodate the (very tiny) shavings. I suppose if you wanted to do a really long continuous push there might be a buildup -- I haven't tried that yet. The instructions do tell you to leave a gap of at least 1/64 between the sole and the top of your profile. Perhaps this is meant to solve that problem?
For me, the "better mousetrap" is mainly in the improved grip. I can't hold the Stanley comfortably or effectively because of disability.
Jim
The cutters on the 66 (and the LN equivalent) would be easier to hold to sharpen than the beader in your picture, at least IMO.
Fair Disclosure: I have the LN beader.
That's a good point. As I said above, I've been perfectly satisfied with my 66, and have no plans to buyt the Windsor, but all that brass and wood, sure is pretty.
Everybody wants to build a better mousetrap. How much deader can the little bugger get?
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