Replies

1. 
   saschafer | May 21, 2009 08:34pm | #1

   Some possibilities:

   • The blade is dirty (pitch deposits, etc.).
   • The blade is dull.
   • The blade is not aligned with the fence. (This would affect ripping but not crosscutting.)

   If the blade is dirty, you'll be able to see the brownish deposits, especially on the sides of the teeth.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   TMitchell | May 21, 2009 11:42pm | #2

   If none of the above is the culprit then you are most likely pausing to re-position your hands while passing the wood past the saw blade.  particularly tempting to do when ripping.

   I've also had this happen when ripping wood that has a lot of inner tension.  Of course if you have a properly sized riving knife installed that's probably not it...

3. 
   oldbeachbum | May 22, 2009 09:48am | #3

   in conjunction with the other conditions..............feed rate?

    

   I'm not flippin' you off.........just counting cubits

4. 
   mr_kramer | May 22, 2009 04:18pm | #4

   It can only be one of two things, a dull blade, or most likely your blade is not parallel with your fence. It is microscopically pinching and squeezing your lumber lumber on the exit. Ever since I made my adjustments I've never burned another piece.

1. 
   paulray | May 22, 2009 06:28pm | #5

   thanks everyone, for the thoughts on this. so, mr kramer, how do i make those microscopic adjustments. is it in the blade/arbor assembly or the fence? or both?

    

   paul

1. 
   nboucher | May 22, 2009 09:17pm | #6

   Try watching the first podcast on the link below. It should help you:http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 22, 2009 09:52pm | #7

   I would also not rule out a simple splitter that is not aligned properly if you use a splitter. I had a slight burn the other day. I know for a fact my TS blade is aligned to the fence. I know my blades ( I rotate 4 with one staying at my locak sharpner usually) are sharp. But.. I take the splitter and gaurd off and on often so...

   I checked the splitter and it was too far left of blade. It does that when I install it on the outside of the splitter washer in haste in lieu of the inside where it should be. So.. just another check-point to ponder.

   Sarge..

3. 
   mr_kramer | May 22, 2009 11:59pm | #10

   Most saws are adjustable through the fence. What kind of saw do you have? Not many saws will allow you adjust the motor. Your adjustment should be at the sliding head end. The far end of the fence only bites down tight where you slide it. But if you have a rack and pinion type movement there will be some adjustment screws under the lip. Your burn is actually coming from the side of the blade friction rubbing on the side of your material.  If you still have trouble let me know. Nothin' worse than burn marks!!!!!!!!!

1. 
   paulray | May 23, 2009 06:36pm | #11

   i have a jet contractor series saw. 1.5 hp. model # JWTS-10JF.paul

1. 
   mr_kramer | May 26, 2009 06:18pm | #23

   Your adjusment should be in the large slide rod at your waist or you might find adjustment screws on the head of your fence where your clamp handle is. Take a look.And sorry, but no wood has to burn. And a minimum of a 60 tooth carbide blade for any tablesaw. Good luck and let me know.

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 26, 2009 07:20pm | #25

   "And a minimum of a 60 tooth carbide blade for any tablesaw".. Mr. K....

   Could you clarify that Mr. Kramer as I am not sure what you mean with the statement?

   Thanks...

   Sarge..

3. 
   mr_kramer | May 27, 2009 04:15am | #31

   Any tablesaw that you expect to do fine wood work on needs at least 60 teeth to get a nice smooth cut. You know that. Now if you are hogging some rough sawn lumber that you have recycled or plan to plane down to deminsion, sure a rougher blade would be in place. But I think this gentleman more than likely is using pre-demensional lumber, and for those nicer, splinter free, smooth cuts, the more faster sharper teeth the better. Yes?

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 27, 2009 04:26am | #32

   I got you Mr. K. I couldn't determine if you meant 60 tooth minumum on all cuts. And yep... I agree if you are going for a smooth cut the more the merrier. The only draw-back to too many is not enough gullet space to haul off waste when ripping. But you can compensate by slowing down the feed rate if you go for a smooth cut on a rip. I usually run a 20 T and leave the width proud to take to the jointer but.. I think I already stated how I do it in an earlier post.

   I'm going back to my hockey game now for 3rd period action so...

   Have a good evening, sir....

   Sarge...

5. 
   mr_kramer | May 27, 2009 04:43am | #33

   I'm glad there are some out there who think the way I do. Enjoy your game!

2. 
   forestgirl | May 24, 2009 06:31pm | #14

   Beg to disagree, Mr. Kramer, that it could be one of "only two" things.  Besides the two things you listed (dull blade, blade not parallel to fence) there are others, some already mentioned above.  To wit, and perhaps not exhaustive:

   dirty blade

   splitter not parallel to fence

   splitter not 90 degrees to table

   tension in the wood

   change in feeding technique (as mentioned above...shifting hands, which may push stock against blade momentarily

   a warped fence (OK, could fall under "blade not parallel to fence")

   feed rate too slow

   incorrect blade for task

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 5/25/2009 11:49 am by forestgirl

1. 
   Shoemaker1 | May 24, 2009 10:04pm | #15

   Helphow does 1 person feed long stock in 1 motion with out getting a power feed?
   would love to fiqure that out. Do you have a method you are wiling to share? please!

1. 
   forestgirl | May 25, 2009 07:34am | #16

   "how does 1 person feed long stock in 1 motion with out getting a power feed?"  How long is long?  I rarely work with anything over 6' long, and can't say that each rip is perfect in any case.  But Lon Schleining wrote an article for FWW in 1998 showing his technique for ripping quality edges on a table saw.  If you are a subscribing member to FWW.com, you can access the article here <click>.  Note that Lon uses his hand between the blade and the fence, something that I studiously avoid doing.  A push-block would be safer.  The one I use the most has a handle that is forward of the pushing end, and a few inches above the table.

   I tend to use featherboards, both on the saw table and on the fence.  That way I can be back a bit from the saw and still keep the stock on the table and against the fence.  We need Sarge to pipe up here, he'll have good suggestions.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 5/25/2009 12:36 am by forestgirl

   Edited 5/25/2009 11:52 am by forestgirl

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 25, 2009 07:48pm | #17

   With the use of an over-head hold-down on the fence.. a properly positioned feather-board (I use a spring-board) left of stock to pin it on the fence.. proper support front and rear.. you can keep the stock moving almost continuously even with 12' long stock until you get to the very trailing end. And with a push-stick in the ready position the transition to using it on the last 10" can be very quick

   Would a feeder be more consistent? Yep... but most won't rip enough stock to warrant one. I can justify on given days but.. I am in no hurry and for whatever reason enjoy ripping long stock. But.. keep in mind I am not shooting for a glue-line rip. I rip 1/8" proud with a 20 T blade as my stock is going to the jointer to take off 1/16" on each edge.. always..

   Sarge..

   
2. 
   forestgirl | May 25, 2009 08:03pm | #18

   Thanks, Sarge, I knew from the pics of your setup I'd seen before that you had the ultimate safe set-up and process for ripping.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   forestgirl | May 25, 2009 08:05pm | #19

   Another point:  Even if you get a little scorch mark from transitioning your feed, say from "by hand" to "by pushblock", if you're going to joint the board anyway, that scorch mark should get removed.  Lon's article, linked above, was more directed toward the perfect edge straight from the table saw, but I'd venture to guess that most of us finish up with the jointer.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   bones | May 26, 2009 06:51pm | #24

   "Help

   how does 1 person feed long stock in 1 motion with out getting a power feed?would love to fiqure that out. Do you have a method you are wiling to share? please!"

   I have two of the Grr-ripper' hold downs.  I also use the microjig splittler so when I use these hold downs I don't sacrafice the safety of the splitter.  I'll include a link to a youtube video of the device in action cutting short pieces but its features also works great for long rips where I use it most.  I tried to find the exact video that showed me the grr-ripper being used in this function but could not. I did not develop this tecnique but saw it in a vid.  I start with the piece against the fence with one grr-ripper and a second one about 6" behind the first.  I start the feed rate through and as I pass over the blade (hold down on both sides of the blade) I lift the one in front while continuing the downward and forward pressure with the second one, and move the grr-ripper that was in front to behind the second and walk the board through the rip in one continuous montion.  It works great and I rip cherry and it burns a lot.  They are not the cheapest of safety devices but I use them everywhere from the router table to jointer to TS.  I hope I explained it and it does not sound like jibberish. 

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stfUmjJaboY&feature=related

    Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.

1. 
   Jimurock | May 26, 2009 07:52pm | #26

   This isn't a video but it shows the process: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/nprod-14.htm  I actually use Sarge's method for long heavy stock, but the Grrrippers for almost everything else.  Like you I've found it perfectly safe.  Even if you miscalculate slightly the worst that happens is a cut in the replaceable rubber foot.  A lot of woodworkers won't pass their hands over a blade no matter what, but to me this method is a whole lot safer than futzing around with a pushstick.

   Jim

5. 
   santana | May 22, 2009 10:05pm | #8

   Check the following items:

   • table saw is tuned
   • blade is clean and sharp
   • when you are cutting the wood make sure your cut is one continous motion
6. 
   UnclePablo | May 22, 2009 11:14pm | #9

   Is the blade meant for ripping solid stock? How many teeth does it have? A sharp 80 tooth crosscut blade will burn wood if you rip with it.
   -Paul

7. 
   WillGeorge | May 24, 2009 09:09am | #12

   I think your saw just wanted some fun for the long weekend..

   Some woods just burn I say!

1. 
   paulray | May 24, 2009 02:48pm | #13

   i watched the video on adjusting and tuning up a ts and went to the shop to look mine over and found that my fence is way out of wack. so tomorrow, i will make some adjustments ( i'm working today) thanks for the help.

    

   paul

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 25, 2009 08:31pm | #20

   Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and use to teach to my students.Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head fine thread machine screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does. For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and one front trunnion bolt. Slightly loosen the other front trunnion bolt and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.For cabinet saws, loosen the bolts that hold the tabletop and tap one corner until things come into alignment.The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.
   Howie.........

1. 
   paulray | May 25, 2009 09:42pm | #21

   i can't thanks you all enough for helping me with my saw. i have gone over it thoroughly and have made some significant improvements. i don't yet have a dial indicator because the true value near me did not have any in stock (they had everything else to make fine measurements). anyway, even with out it and jsut using rudimentary devices to check alingment things have great improved!thanks again.paul

1. 
   Shoemaker1 | May 26, 2009 02:35am | #22

   I agree the last clean up with the jointer.
   I have one them fancy fine cerf Freud blades and it good but, Im to lazy to swap it out for solid wood only. And others use my saw and might run OBS through it and not look at the blade first.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | May 27, 2009 12:04am | #28

   You don't have to rush into a dial indicator. The five cent brass screw will give you just as accurate results.Howie.........

3. 
   Shoemaker1 | May 27, 2009 01:49am | #29

   and Jim thanks for the links. May have to take a second look at some of those Grippers.
   Bones is that you doin' the video ?

4. 
   bones | May 27, 2009 02:14am | #30

   Nope, I'm not the video kinda guy.  The video I was looking for was from woodworking magazine that use to be produced as a DVD magazine.  I really liked but sadly they did not make it.  Chris Dehut I think was his name.   Those two safety devices and the microjig are some of the best things I ever got for the shop.Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.

8. 
   gpssam | May 26, 2009 09:34pm | #27

   Is your board jointed to begin with? Are you putting a perfectly straight edge against the fence?