Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 20, 2002 04:46am | #1

   To bring out the grain and figure with the least effect on the color, I'd use the dewaxed ultra-pale shellac from woodfinishingsupplies.com - http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com/Shellac.htm

   If you need more durability than the shellac offers, you can use a water-clear, non-yellowing finish over the DE-waxed shellac. A couple choices include the water-base polyurethane from http://www.targetcoatings.com and Minwax Polycrylic from your local hardware/paint store.

   If you use a water-base finish on the oak without starting with the shellac, you may not like the "cold" look of the finish. The ultra-pale shellac adds very little color, but does provide a "warmer/wet" look. One water-base finish that does provide the warm/wet look is the EmTech sealer from Target Coatings.

   The oak will take on color as it ages - that's a natural process.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   woodshoplast | Nov 21, 2002 03:17am | #2

   Thanks Paul, I'll check out that site. Agriffee

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 21, 2002 04:00am | #3

   Agrifee - glad to help. The woodfinishingsupplies site has some shellac samples on different boards, inclding white oak, that you can take a look at. The ultra blonde shellac is new, so I don't think they have a sample of that. It's a little lighter than the super-blonde.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 05, 2002 05:15am | #4

   Paul, I ordered some Ultra Blond Shellac from the co you recommended. I am building clocks for Christmas gifts. I have four in Cherry, two in walnut and three in White Oak. Originally I thought all would be finished natural and hence my query as how to keep White Oak white. As I see the clocks assembled, I think I may need some color since these are desk clocks. Just wondering how much color will I get from the Shellac. Almost certainly will need something else or a different color shellac for the Cherry. Probably will still finish the Walnut natural. I do have some Cherry Gel Stain on hand. Any suggestions re: Shellac versus Gel Stain? I'm running out of time and want to keep it simple if possible. Thanks, Arnold

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 06, 2002 01:08am | #5

   Arnold - a thick gel stain will color cherry very evenly and is a good option when you want to stain cherry. Here's an example of how cherry looks with a pigmented gel stain like Bartley or WoodKote - http://www.boomspeed.com/firstfinish/CurlyCherryStain.jpg - the gel stain highlights the grain, but tends to hide the figure of the wood.

   An alternative is to get some alcohol soluable dye and mix a little with some of your shellac and use the colored shellac instead of stain. This produces a nice look also. Here's a picture of the same cherry board as above with clear coat on half and colored clear coat on the other half - http://www.boomspeed.com/firstfinish/CurlyCherryNatToner.jpg - as an example of the look you get using colored shellac.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 06, 2002 03:26am | #6

   Thanks Paul. I think I'll try the Gel Stain on one to see how it turns out. I Believe its Bartleys, got it at Woodcraft. Am anxious to get the Ultra Blond Shellac to see what it does to Oak. Probably get it tomorrow. Thanks again. Arnold. 

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 06, 2002 06:22am | #7

   Arnold - if possible, always test your finish on scrap wood to make sure you like it before starting the project(s).

   Have a great Christmas - sounds like some of your family/friends sure will!Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   noone51 | Dec 06, 2002 07:51am | #8

   Paul, as usual, you advice is right on the money. However, your last post was the most right on. Test, test and retest. When you have it like you want it then finish the real thing. I've never had a shortage of scraps but I've had several shortages of finish product LOL...

3. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 07, 2002 12:06am | #9

   I just finished four of my clocks, two Walnut and two Oak with the ultra light blond shellac. unbelievably easy! Three coats each one right after another. Soon as I got all four done with a coat could start right over again with the first, already dry! Most importantly, all look beautiful! I saw somewhere on this site that one could add dye to this shellac and get the color that would be needed for Cherry. Took me longer to stain one clock than all four with shellac. Am going to find that info again to see if I can find dye around here in time to finish the Cherry Clocks. Do believe I will put one coat of Minwax Polycrylic on all after shellac. Thanks very much, you have been much help. Arnold

4. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 07, 2002 12:13am | #10

   PS Would you recommend one of the colered shellac's instead of adding Dye? Hate to keep bothering you but appriciate the help. Arnold

5. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 07, 2002 01:13am | #11

   Arnold - Orange or garnet shellac look very nice on cherry. Here's a link to some sample boards, including cherry, with different shellac grades - http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com/shellac_board_samples.htm - you can get a good idea of how the different grades of shellac look. If you topcoat with Polycrylic, make sure the shellac is DEwaxed - waterborn finishes and polyurethane don't adhere to shellac with wax.

   I like to use dye in the finish because I can get custom colors. With shellac, use a dye like Transtints that can be mixed with alcohol (for shellac) or water (for coloring the wood or mixing with Polycrylic). Dyes that work with multiple thinners/solvents are becoming more widely available.Paul

   F'burg, VA

6. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 07, 2002 02:03am | #13

   I believe Woodcraft handles Transtints dye, in the interest of time I'll go over tommorow and see what colors they have. Believe I can mix a dye with the ultra light blond shellac I just bought. Head me off if I'm wrong. Thanks again, Arnold

7. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 07, 2002 01:27am | #12

   Since I'm bothering you so much, might as well ask if I couldn't use the Minwax polyurthane I alredy have over the shellac? I have both Satin and clear polyurthane. What is the difference in these products and the water base non-yellowing minwax polycrylic you mentioned? Hope I got all my questions in so I won't have to keep bothering you. By the way, bet you don't get paid much for helping dummies like me. Thanks, Arnold

8. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 07, 2002 02:26am | #14

   Arnold - if I was getting paid, I wouldn't enjoy it as much.View Image

   The ultra-blond flakes from http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com are DEwaxed, so you don't have to worry about an adhesion problem. The Minwax poly is an oil-base finish, and has a slight amber color. The Polycrylic is water-clear and won't yellow over time. I only recommended the waterborn finish in the case you wanted to add no color at all to the wood.

   Adding Transtints to the shellac is a good way to add a layer of color above the wood. It produces more even coloring and adds depth to the finish. You can add the same dye to waterborn finishes for the same effect. And you can get oil-base dyes to mix with varnish and poly. All finishes can be colored.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

9. 
   garylundin | Dec 19, 2002 01:27am | #15

   paul

   i just finished a cherry dresser and everyone loves the color.   I first put on one coat of boiled linseed oil, thinned half with mineral spirits and heated.  I don't have a doubled heater and i find most brush on oil finishes penetrate better when warm so i put them in a coffee can and put them on a hand made wire shelf above my vise where i hold a heat gun, you get the idea.

   after the oil i brushed on 2 coats of garnett shellac (i didn't heat the shellac), then 2 coats of blonde shellac.  The garnett darkening is cumulative and i liked the look of 2 coats.  the next two blonde coats for more protection.  I mix my own and use a 2lb cut.

   I like to rub out finishes.  There are the inevitable dust nibs and a rubbed out finish is always more pleasing to the touch and sight.

   Gary