Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 28, 2009 05:54am | #1

   Lacquer is not the best finishing choice for bathrooms.  You have the equivalent of water rings, but from the atmosphere not just from the moisture at the bottome of a glass.  Best way I know to remove it would be to wipe with a damp (not wet) wipe of denatured alcohol.  You should be able to get most out that way.  I would then clean the surface well using naptha to prepare for a more protective finish.  That preparation would also include some gentle, but thorough scuff sanding, that should remove remaining blush. 

   For the more protective finish I would lean toward a wiping varnish as being relatively easy to apply to the parts that you would have to finish on site--such as the face frames and end panels.  Having done that I would recommend remainng consistent and doing the doors and drawers with the same finish.  If the lacquer is otherwise in sound condition, you should be able to get a very protective top coat with three or four coats of an oil based wiping varnish. 

1. 
   caplacq | Feb 28, 2009 11:31am | #2

   Thanks for the info. I.ll attempt that this weekend. What product have you used for a wiping varnish? Its ok to go over the lacquer.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 28, 2009 03:50pm | #3

   You don't have to buy it as a wiping varnish, you can thin varnish made for brushing.  The usual ratio given is to mix equal parts of varnish and mineral spirits, though I would tend to use a bit less thinner since if that wipes well for you it will build a bit faster. 

2. 
   Rich14 | Feb 28, 2009 04:41pm | #4

   Paul,

   I think you have several options, other than a wiping varnish.

   Since you have spray equipment, I recommend "repairing" the problem finish by spraying again. The wiping varnish will not leave the surface looking like a professional finish job.

   First, the "blush" is VERY close to the surface. Buff the old lacquer with 4-0 steel wool. You will be able to rid it of the white blush, leaving a matte surface.

   Then you can respray with a number of different finishes. You can use lacquer again. A different brand may be much less susceptible to water absorption. Did you use nitro? I have had a few jobs blush because the ambient humidity was too high. That always happened with nitro. I have never had CAB Acrylic blush. I don't know if it's inherently less susceptible, but you might try it. It handles exactly the same as nitro. I use Sherwyn Williams. Good stuff.

   Another choice is conversion varnish or catalyzed lacquer. Using either of these is similar in application, need for thorough clean up at the end, and a finish that is very tough, resistant to water absorption and difficult to repair later. I would use conversion varnish as you'll probably have the best finish for the environment in which you're using the cabinet. Practically all commercial finishing of such cabinetry is conversion varnish.

   I can only speak as a novice about conversion varnish as my first experience with it has been in the last few days (I have many years experience spraying nitro and CAB Acylic lacquers). It's actually no big deal. I worked with a contractor and watched and participated. We added catalyst at the start of the job, sprayed, cleaned up. Done.

   Lastly, if you thin varnish 50:50 to use as a wiping varnish, you can spray THAT. The final look will be much better than wiping it on.

   You can get a lot of good advice at the Breaktime forum. People with lots of experience in this kind of finishing hang out there.

   Good luck,

   Rich

   
   

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   Edited 2/28/2009 8:43 am ET by Rich14

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 28, 2009 08:06pm | #5

   The reason I suggested the wiping varnish is that it's likely that parts of the project will have to be finished in the location, and frankly spraying in a bathroom that is otherwised finished  can bring major problems.  Rich is correct that it won't take much abrasion to remove the blush, in most cases. 

   Spraying conversion varnishes and other catalyzed finishes in locations without proper ventilation and operator protection isn't so good either.  Not many of use without commercial operations have the faciities to safely spray such products. 

   If everything can be brought into a good environment for spraying then those are clearly top rate choices.  And, as Rich says you can spray the wiping varnish, at least for the doors and drawer fronts that can be removed, as long as you are willing to tolerate the sticky over spray.  That might mean wiping the stationary parts and spraying the portable pieces, which are the more visible, usually. 

   Edited 2/28/2009 12:09 pm ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   caplacq | Feb 28, 2009 10:39pm | #7

   I always wanted to try spraying varnish but was not sure if it could be done. I'll keep that in mind for the future. The converson lacquer sound interesting, I'll have to do my homework it and try using it. I have an old kitchen table that that I refinished and sprayed with nitro lacquer and have the typical problems with hot plate sticking. I need to remove the finish and try spraying it with thinned varnish.

2. 
   Rich14 | Mar 01, 2009 01:20am | #8

   SteveI assumed the cabinet could easily be taken back out to the shop and refinished. Bad assumption.Rich

1. 
   caplacq | Mar 02, 2009 04:27pm | #9

   I could remove it out of the bathroom, but would like to avoid that if possible.

2. 
   caplacq | Feb 28, 2009 10:23pm | #6

   Thanks. I'll keep it simple and try wiping the surface with steel wool. If needs be i can remove the cabinet( not easily) to sprayit in a remote area. I have only sprayed nitro lacquer and commonly us Deft. I've read about converson lacquer but was a little nervous using it, I'm very comfortable using the nitro. You have been very helpfull, thanks for your tiime. My other favorite site is Breaktime.