In a current thread, a number of posters have taken issue with Briwax for finishing new furniture. FWW has had articles on waxes… but what do the end users think? If not Briwax, which wax? Liberon? A roll your own? Pledge?
Inquiring mind(s) want to know…
Glaucon
If you don’t think too good, then don’t think too much…
Replies
Renaissance Wax, since Liberon Professional's wax is no longer available.
Edited 3/25/2008 11:47 am ET by BossCrunk
I like Antiquax, in either clear or dark. Easy to apply, gives a mellow gloss, not auto-shiney. I rather like it's aroma, which is about as important a factor as there is in choosing waxes. There are differences, but in most cases, other than waxes with the strong solvents such as Briwax original, they mostly do quite similar jobs.
Renaissance... and I use it to wax cast iron also.. The draw-back to it is it's very expensive.. Very... but what isn't I suppose.
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 3/25/2008 6:30 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge and Boss-What do you like about Renaissance wax?Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
G,
I never used the R wax but only because it doesn't seem to be sold in a coloured form, which means it may show up as white flecks in open grain timbers, especially the darker ones.
Does it , I wonder, contribute to patina in the way that traditional waxes may do? Part of the patina acquired over the ages by antique furniture might be due to that acidic action the British Museum was trying to avoid when they commissioned the R&D of the R wax
If the R wax users could cover those questions too, I'd be grateful too.
Lataxe.
PS It's around £50 ($100) for 3 litres over here. Given 3 litres probably covers half an acre of furniture, that's not too expensive is it?
I use Renaissance exclusively, now, on projects that have a film finish of any kind. I suppose it's about as neutral a wax as can be had (if you believe the ad "hype" and in this case I do) and won't disturb a finish that might not have had a chance to cure to absolute completion before the project has to be delivered.I still use Liberon Professional's wax and Fiddes over oil finishes or if I'm going for a waxed, stripped Pine look (no finish other than wax).
I use the R for maintaining a clear surface, Doc. I believe it dries harder than other waxes I have used and therefore last longer. Seems to be a bit better about not scuffing as easily. The R gets the call on maple and any other wood I prefer clear. I work under different circumstances than Boss.. who has deadlines to meet. Time is on my side and I wait for a finish to cure.
With that said... I also use other waxes when using wood I have tinted. I really like the Liberon as it comes in various shades that can be matched closely to the tint without competing with each other. If I am looking for a golden glow as I do on oak.. Johnson's or Butchers might get the call with it's tint as it is cheaper and IMO.. works about as well.
I am basing what I said about delivering a harder surface on wood from the fact that the R holds much longer on cast iron from my experience. I cannot provide scientific evidence to support that, but then again I don't need to as observation and actual use has told me that it is not necessary to do an extensive search for the forest when I am surrounded by trees.
Regards...
Sarge..
<"it is not necessary to do an extensive search for the forest when I am surrounded by trees.">LOL... something I should share with my colleagues in biomedical research...Thanks for the info on wax,Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I like Butchers "Bowling ally wax" for most things but reserve the Renaissance for special jobs.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
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