Replies

1. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | May 05, 2006 07:43am | #1

   You can use Tightbond 1 or 2 with a glue syringe to get the glue into the joint, just wipe off the squeeze out after clamping. Almost every WW supply will carry  these things, they are not hard to find.  Here is a link to Lee Valleys' page, but you can find them from Rockler, Woodpeckers and others.

    Glue Syringes - Lee Valley Tools

   Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA
2. 
   JMartinsky | May 05, 2006 01:48pm | #2

   Dear Clark,
   I would hesitate to use a yellow glue for this application. I am not an expert (hopefully one will chime in) but I have found that to re-glue a broken glue joint with yellow glue will not hold. I think the reason is that whatever glue was used originally is still present in the wood fibers, effectively sealing the wood and not allowing for proper penetration. My only suggestion would be to wait until a few people have weighed in before proceeding. There are some very talented woodworkers here with some great ideas. My only suggestion would be to use either a polyurethane glue (as much as I hate the stuff) or ideally, epoxy. Just my two cents.

   John

1. 
   Lataxe | May 07, 2006 12:23am | #3

   John,

   I think you're correct about the polyurethane.

   A neighbor persuaded me to reglue the dozen and a half post and rung chairs that had come undone in the pub (bar) she manages.  These were mass-produced items in which the rungs had loosened in the round mortises, because they were badly made and glued with ticky-tacky.

   Unfortunately the glue could not easily be removed (it was caked-in PVA) so the only realistic solution was to use a glue that would bind to the old glue.  As you say, PVA needs to enter the wood fibres but polyu will stick to old PVA, if iit s given a bit of a sand to get rid of any loose flakes.

   Polyu is claggy stuff but I suspect that it is easier to clean off the ooze from the re-glued joint than it would be with epoxy, which would probably end up sticking you to the chair too.  On the other hand, although polyu foams and fills gaps the foam has no strength, unlike some other thixotropic glues that will fill gaps and give strength (eg some epoxies).

   I doubt, though, if polyu can be syringed into a joint that can't be fully opened, given its claggy nature.  Also, the joint needs wetting to ensure that the polyu actually works.  The joint ideally needs to be taken apart......

   You can see why FWW is always going on about how hide glue eases repairs.  You just heat up the old glue in the joint and squidge a bit more in with capilliary action, or so the experts have it.

   With a loosened M&T, one could (if there was enough joint area) pin it with two or more dowels, after clamping it tight; and rely on mechanical rather than glue strength to hold it together.  This might be risky with a door that is often stressed and racked, especially if you are in a good humour with the beer and fancy a swing on it, one night.

   Lataxe