Replies

1. 
   [email protected] | Apr 07, 2008 01:00am | #1

   The loading it will be subjected to determines the strength needed. 

   The 60-inch length will sag under light loads if not reinforced with stretchers or thickened.

   Try using the sagulator, modeling the length between the legs as the shelf length, and see what you get.

1. 
   SpecialK | Apr 07, 2008 01:27am | #2

   Sagulator!  I learned something new.  Ain't the Internet great!

   I plan to include an apron which should eliminate the potential for sag.  It's more the wobble I'm concerned about.

1. 
   [email protected] | Apr 07, 2008 01:39am | #3

   Sorry, I confused myself. 

   The strethchers only need to be there if the joint at the top of the leg is weak, or the legs too narrow in section. 

   I have a couple of dining tables that don't have stretchers, and have seen uncountable others. 

   If the joint at the top is stiff enough, and the leg thick enough, stretchers are unnecessary. 

2. 
   BG | Apr 07, 2008 03:51am | #4

   SpecialK,
   The rule of thumb that I use is the leg needs to be supported by 1.5-2.0 its thickness. The longer the leg the closer to 2x the thickness of the leg. If having the apron 2x the thickness of the leg does not work, then use a stretcher.

3. 
   Ed | Apr 07, 2008 02:28pm | #5

   Most tables wobble, even with stretchers and stout legs.  How much wobble are you willing to accept?  For me it would depend on use.  A workbench, for example, should have very little wobble.  On a dining table I'd be willing to accept some wobble in return for an aesthetic consideration.  I built a Sheraton ladies sewing table (aka bag table or work table) with very thin legs and no stretchers.  It wobbles merrily at the slightest touch, but that doesn't affect its use.

   Can you tell us a bit more about your table?  Maybe some more concrete suggestions will be forthcoming?

   Ed

4. 
   jackplane | Apr 07, 2008 04:35pm | #6

   All tables I build have stretchers, though the shape/design varies. To build otherwise invites trouble and a short lifespan.

   Build for the long term. A table without stretchers always racks, and ends in the dustbin like an Ikea table.

   Expert since 10 am.

5. 
   SpecialK | Apr 07, 2008 04:47pm | #7

   Thanks for all of the input.  Since you asked, let me be more specific.

   The table is to be used as a sewing table.  My wife makes draperies and wants a table for her sewing machine.  It's a dedicated station, so there is no lift or anything involved.  The machine simply sits on the table top.  So the table will bear the weight of the sewing machine toward the right-hand side of the length of the table and fabric over the remaining surface.  I wanted the table to appear "light" so the legs will be 1-3/4" or 2" at the top with a slight taper.  Also, I am including a 3" apron.

   So, I think we want a stable surface.  If I need stretchers, they will only be on 3 sides, but for asthetic purposes for this piece, I'd like to avoid them.  I'd even consider beefing up the legs a bit if I need to.

   Thanks, again,

   Drew

1. 
   BG | Apr 07, 2008 07:23pm | #8

   SpecialK,
   Assuming a 1" top and 3" apron, that leaves 24" for her knees to slide under on a 28" tall table. I'd make sure that's comfortable for her. Then I'd cut a 4" apron and arch it up to 2.5" wide in the center. Just an idea..

1. 
   SpecialK | Apr 07, 2008 07:27pm | #9

   BG,

   I am going to arch the apron.  Should have mentioned that.  You think a 4" apron will obviate the need for stretchers?

1. 
   BG | Apr 07, 2008 08:53pm | #10

   SpecialK,
   Yes, I do think a 4" apron is enough. The only other question is if she wants a shelf under for storage?

1. 
   Ed | Apr 07, 2008 11:38pm | #11

   Echoing other posters, 1 3/4 to 2 inch legs with 3 or 4 inch apron should be fine with no stretchers.  It will wiggle a bit if you use the top for gymnastics practice but for sewing machine work it will be fine.

   Two suggestions:  

   1. Customize the table height to your wife's needs.  If she's short or tall, adjust the height accordingly.  Select the chair or bench she will use BEFORE you finalize height.

   2. A group of storage drawers under the left side will be very handy.  It's a much bigger job, but ... 

   Ed

    

    

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Apr 08, 2008 06:17am | #12

   Why don't you make a quick and dirty mock up using plywood sheathing and construction-grade lumber?  You should be able to get a pretty good idea of how much racking you'd get with the design you have in mind without spending much moolah.Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

6. 
   ancientvoices | Apr 08, 2008 06:51am | #13

   I made us a dining table that is 60" x 36" and 30" high. It has a 4" wide apron and 3" square legs. It has no wobble.