Replies

1. 
   jptenberg | Apr 22, 2008 05:35pm | #1

   Since I got my Domino over a year ago, I have not made a "traditional" tennon.  I used to make them on the band saw though...

   Peter

   www.jpswoodworking.com

2. 
   PeterDurand | Apr 22, 2008 05:44pm | #2

   "Other" = Domino

    

   Better life through Zoodles and poutine...

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 22, 2008 05:49pm | #3

   David,

   Since I'm in line with getting one of those tax refunds and not wanting to irritate the poilticians in Washington I now use gov't specs. for laying out tenons:

   Measure with micrometer, mark with chalk and cut with an axe.  Then file to fit.

   View Image

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

4. 
   saschafer | Apr 22, 2008 05:50pm | #4

   Other: Purchase loose tenon stock from Lee Valley and use a router jig to make mortises in both halves of the joint.

   But I do cut some tenons, and most half-lap and bridle joints, on the bandsaw.

   -Steve

    

5. 
   DogwoodDesign | Apr 22, 2008 06:16pm | #5

   Other: Leigh FMT, chose this over Domino...

6. 
   bszydlo | Apr 22, 2008 07:33pm | #6

   Leigh FMT

7. 
   joinerswork | Apr 22, 2008 08:10pm | #7

   David,

   I got the Vega machine, which uses a router motor and upcut bit.  I think they are out of business now, but I read about the machine in a FWW article several years ago.  It was relatively inexpensive, and makes repeatable, accurate tenons.  Relatively easy to set up/ adjust.  Cuts angled tenons, and round self tenons(attached dowels, as it were) and allegedly, box (finger) joints as well, tho I've never done the box joint thing. 

   Ray

8. 
   JsHerbel | Apr 22, 2008 08:24pm | #8

   I use a cheese grater and fuel myself with a 12-pack of Pabst Blue Ribbon.

    

   http://www.ithacawoodworker.com

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 22, 2008 09:15pm | #9

   They still make Pubers!?  16 ouncers?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   JsHerbel | Apr 23, 2008 09:17pm | #20

   Yes, I drink only the finest of beverages;)

   http://www.ithacawoodworker.com

1. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 23, 2008 10:33pm | #21

   Pass the Sapphire, please.

9. 
   Lataxe | Apr 23, 2008 12:07am | #10

   I like the woodrat best, as it makes piston-fitters.

   But I use all them other methods, as well as the router in various guises, just to play.  Which one shall it be termorra?  I just don't know until I steps into the shed.....

   Lataxe the inconsistent.

1. 
   knuts | Apr 23, 2008 03:13pm | #16

   Me too... Woodrat

10. 
    flairwoodworks | Apr 23, 2008 04:46am | #11

    David,

    I use a tablesaw and the standard 1/8" kerf blade.  I clear most of the waste using the miter gauge and the fence as a stop before sliding the workpiece across the blade with the miter gauge as a fence.

    Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

     - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

11. 
    RickW | Apr 23, 2008 05:51am | #12

    Most of the tenon I make are fairly short, so I use the table saw with a standard blade and the miter gauge.
    Rick W

12. 
    eddiefromaustralia | Apr 23, 2008 07:36am | #13

    Loose tenons, David.

    Cut mortice in both components with a horizontal mortiser and use available scrap to manufacture tenons to fit.

    Cheers,

    eddie

13. 
    AnotherBrit | Apr 23, 2008 01:45pm | #14

    I love my Domino.  (Anyone in England want to buy a redundant morticing machine?)

14. 
    carlmccarty | Apr 23, 2008 02:18pm | #15

    I haven't made atenon since I bought the Dowel Max about a year ago.

15. 
    tkluck | Apr 23, 2008 03:46pm | #17

    I'm old enough to have, and still use a radial arm saw.

16. 
    dewesq | Apr 23, 2008 05:39pm | #18

    David:

    I use a shop-made horizontal routing attachment, fitted with a Bosch trim router which attaches to the shop-made router table/table extension on my table saw.

    dewesq

17. 
    user-292116 | Apr 23, 2008 05:46pm | #19

    Other = cut on the table saw, regular blade. Easy, minimal set up, no jig required.

18. 
    DonaldPelton | Apr 24, 2008 05:35am | #22

    I have been making mortise and tenon joints, although small, using my Epilog Laser machine.  I just superimpose a square on the edge of a piece for the tenon, delete the center and inside lines, and make a corresponding rectangle as wide as the wood is thick for the mortise.

19. 
    Routerman | Apr 24, 2008 05:39am | #23

    Grouter.

20. 
    pzaxtl | Apr 24, 2008 05:40am | #24

    I use a variety of methods but the one I'm liking most these days is my Leigh FMT.

21. 
    DeraldSmith | Apr 24, 2008 05:20pm | #25

    I typically use a tablesaw jig I made which glides on the fence, to get the job done faster. But I really enjoy cutting tenons and mortises by hand for fine furniture pieces. Nothing bets the satisfactionof looking at a join that is perfect and you cut it with you own hands.

22. 
    RMillard | Apr 24, 2008 05:41pm | #26

    I guess if I were making a bunch of tenons, I might be interested in a jig/tool for the job, but for the way I work, a marking gauge, saw and shoulder plane is my favorite way to go.

    I thought I would like the bandsaw, since it is my most used power tool, but it didn't turn out to be the case.

    The only time I use anything other than the handsaw, is for wide tenons like those on slant front desk lids or sideboard sides and backs, where I use the router and fence.

    Rob Millard

    http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

     

1. 
   jeffs | Apr 25, 2008 09:29am | #29

   nice web site and BEAUTIFUL furniture!

    

   Jeff

1. 
   RMillard | Apr 25, 2008 12:28pm | #30

   Jeff,

   Thank you.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

23. 
    bricofleur | Apr 24, 2008 06:54pm | #27

    For one or two, I don't bother with the dado set, I use the tablesaw with a single blade. I didn't try my Delta tenonning jig yet, but I bought it particularly for angled tenons. I like using loose tenons because it's fast, versatile and accurate (when setup is done). I plan to build Ernie Conover's horizontal router table from FWW #147. It looks great and should helps making tenons very easy and fast.

    Serge

    - Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
1. 
   fatboy2 | Apr 24, 2008 07:26pm | #28

   I mount two blades in the table saw, spacing them with the inner blades from my dado set. I use shims to get the exact width I need to match the mortices I cut in the rails. Then I use the Delta jig to hold the rails and pass them through the saw. I use a shoulder plane to perfect the fit.
   I made all the doors in my house this way. The tenons were 2 1/2 inches long land about 3 inches wide 1/2 thick. Cut the mortices with a morticing machne. Fit pretty well. Pegged all the joints.
   Stef

24. 
    Scrit | Apr 26, 2008 10:15pm | #31

    Single end tenoner or spindle moulder with appropriate tooling. At a pinch I'll use a bandsaw, though. Tablesaw with unguarded blade is too dangerous for my liking

    Scrit

1. 
   derekcohen | Apr 27, 2008 08:54am | #32

   Nuclear-powered laser cutter on a CNC machine. This is set up on a hydraulic jack and vacuum clamp to make sure nothing moves during the vital cuts.

   However I still prefer to use a backsaw, shoulder plane and occasionally a steam-powered bandsaw at times.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

25. 
    chaim | May 02, 2008 11:46am | #33

    I use a shop made jig for the router. It can handle mortises as well as tenons.

    Not an original idea, I saw it in shop notes or woodsmith one of those.

    It works best with an up cut spiral bit!

    Chaim

    Make your own mistakes not someone elses, this is a good way to be original !

    
1. 
   AZMO | May 02, 2008 04:14pm | #34

   I like your hammer wind chimes in the background....;>) AZMO                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   chaim | May 03, 2008 09:14pm | #37

   Thanks I have people inquire of it from all around but your the first to see it for what it truly is... Modern Art!

   Thank you once again.

   Chaim P.S. I like your work But I noticed that there are no wind chimes.

   Make your own mistakes not someone elses, this is a good way to be original !

   Edited 5/3/2008 2:19 pm by chaim

26. 
    Garry | May 02, 2008 05:00pm | #35

    I have also just purchased  the Domino and in many cases prefer it
    to the traditional mortise and tenons.

    I am building the interior doors for our new house. The Doors are four panel doors.

    http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/PanelDoors.htm

    On the last door I used the Domino to make the loose tenons. The doors are very rigid and machining /assembly time was less. As a result I will likely be using the traditonal methods less in the future.

    http://www.superwoodworks.com

27. 
    tbp77 | May 03, 2008 05:25am | #36

    I use a tenon jig I made from a plan from Jim McCleary of provenwoodworking.com with a plunge router with a rabbeting bit.  It makes pretty tenons that are obscenely crisp and square.  Key is a router bit with a long shank and various sized rub collars.  I believe this is also what Pat Warner uses (or may have invented) as well and he sells jigs pre-made along with long router bits.

    This is a very safe method and with a dust collector on a router a pretty dust free one.

28. 
    bones | May 04, 2008 03:54pm | #38

    I use floating tenons.  IMO easier and just as strong and provided some flexibility in adjusting. (domino)

    Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
    If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
    And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    

    
    

    ---

    Edited 5/4/2008 8:54 am by bones

1. 
   Scrit | May 05, 2008 07:15pm | #39

   When doing exterior joinery on items like doors, sash windows, etc I was taught to use through tenons with wedges and glue every time. the reasoning is simple - even if the glue joint fails, the wedges will retain structural integrity. I've seen quite a few Victorian (i.e. pre-1900) sash windows and doors made in this manner which are still in one piece so somebody must have got the original design right. Are you sure that a joint depending totally on glue will actually outlive you? 

   Scrit