Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 24, 2009 05:58pm | #1

   chalky,

   The wood continued to absorb finish with the second coat.

   The first coat of "danish oil" (if it was a commercial product with that name, it probably was simply a thin wiping varnish), did not seal the wood. That's not surprising. So the following application of varnish soaked in unevenly, giving the appearance you describe.

   Basically, you now have a wood surface with a "base coat" of varnish on it (the combined coats of "danish oil" and "varnish"). The wood is probably sealed, but may still require another application to seal it. Gently scuff sand the uneven varnish surface and apply another coat. Allow that coat to harden for 24-48 hours, scuff sand it and apply a final coat.

   THAT coat when fully hardened (3-4 weeks) will probably be thick enough for rubbing out.

   Rich

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/24/2009 9:59 am ET by Rich14

1. 
   chalky | Jan 24, 2009 06:10pm | #2

   Rich,
   Thanks so much. I was beginning to think I had to sand it all down to bare wood again and start over.

2. 
   Pascanale | Jan 24, 2009 08:17pm | #3

   The given advice is all true except it leaves out one important fact--Cherry is among a select group of woods known to be very blotchy when applying finishes, stains, oils, whatever. Its almost a rule to apply a wash coat of a sealer like 2 pound cut of shellac before anything. I like using danish oil (Watco Danish Oil specifically) which is a penetrating and polymerizing oil, it sets up and therefore must not be left on the surface, you remove the excess as directed, after allowing it to soak in for a while. Because cherry unevenly absorbs the oil, or stain or whatever, it can give the characteristic blotchiness hence, the need for the shellac.

   The shellac mixture can be purchase already made but the purists will mix the flakes with alcohol to their desired "cut". The purchased product is approximately 4 pound cut if I'm not mistaken, so dilute it with alcohol in half. It will dry quickly and you can proceed with whatever next step you wish. Check out FWW recent article about just this process. I think its a few months ago.

1. 
   chalky | Jan 24, 2009 09:18pm | #4

   But isn't it too late to deal with the blotchiness now? It already has 2 coats of the Danish oil and a coat of varnish.

1. 
   chalky | Jan 24, 2009 09:20pm | #5

   Sanding it again would not be a problem it is a top to a nite stand. If so, please advise on grit to use.

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 24, 2009 09:44pm | #6

   chalky,The problem you've encountered is not "blotchiness" as has been suggested. "Blotchiness" is uneven staining/tinting. Shellac can be used to even out cherry's response to staining. But that's not what's going on in your case. The other contributor is confused and sounds like he's had little experience with this sort of thing and is just quoting from something he's read.You simply have variable absorption of a thinly-applied finish. The appearance you describe is normal. Nothing is wrong. You have only begun the finishing process. You need to continue to apply more finish as I've described.Rich

   Edited 1/24/2009 5:22 pm ET by Rich14

3. 
   gofigure57 | Jan 25, 2009 01:30am | #7

      Chalky, Why did you wet sand the oil into the table top? I would take Rich14s advice, he is very knowledgeable. I suspect when you started sanding in the oil, the sandpaper was fresh . As you progressed the paper loaded up and stopped cutting thus creating the variation from one half to the other.

                                   Tom.

1. 
   chalky | Jan 25, 2009 02:16am | #8

   Tom,
   I read an article about finishing cherry and the author said he always wet sands two coats of danish oil. I just wanted to learn how to rub out a finish and since this top was small thought this would be good practice. The side that is blotchy still isn't completely dry and its been over two days. But my shop doesn't stay much above 55 at night.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 25, 2009 04:43am | #9

   "But my shop doesn't stay much above 55 at night."  Mmmmmm, not good.  I've done a few wet-sanded pieces, in oak mostly, and have found it pays to bring 'em in the house and conduct the process where it's warm.  Otherwise, when a cold (55* for instance) piece into a warm environment, it starts to bleed out finish.

   Another option, if you can't bring the piece into the house, is to focus some halogen work lamps onto the piece, in your cold shop.  Don't set the place on fire! but just get them set up such that they warm the surface to a level comfortable to your hand.  Do the wet-sanding, let them cure under the lights.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   gofigure57 | Jan 25, 2009 05:36am | #10

                Chalky, I am no finishing expert, I was curious about this procedure. 

   I have worked with my fair share of cherry and I do understand the whole blotchyness issue, my kitchen is full of it , much to my liking.  I encourage you to take Rich 14's advice, I am sure it will turn out fine.

   
1. 
   Gretchen | Jan 25, 2009 10:20pm | #11

   You have well shown the difference between "blotch" and "figure". Big WOW!! ;o0Gretchen

1. 
   chalky | Jan 26, 2009 08:05pm | #12

   Thanks to everyone who took the time to inform and advise on my finishing problem. All of the information very much appreciated. One more question, does anyone have a suggestion on what polish to use?

2. 
   Gretchen | Jan 26, 2009 10:27pm | #13

   None. It will only be the source of a possible problem. Your finish should be beautiful enough to stand on its own.Gretchen

3. 
   chalky | Jan 27, 2009 01:20am | #16

   Thanks, Gretchen

4. 
   DustyGeorge | Jan 26, 2009 11:39pm | #14

   Chalky,

   After following Rich14's advise, how is your "blotchiness" now?  I am curious because I am planning my first cherry project and am concerned about its reputation to occasonally be blotchy.

   GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

5. 
   chalky | Jan 27, 2009 01:17am | #15

   Dusty,
   I haven't touch it yet, waiting for it to be completely dry, some of the varnish was still tacky. I will definitely use a wash coat anytime I work with cherry in the future.

2. 
   joinerswork | Jan 27, 2009 02:30am | #17

   gofigure,

   Yeh, that tile between the lower and upper cabinets sure is blotchy.  Wash coat would've probably helped.

   Ray