I recently recovered a teak patio set from the garbage,and am in the process of restoring it. This item seems to be a relatively high end production set of furniture and I would guess that it’s about 20 years old.
To repair it properly, I needed to take apart some of the mortise and tennon joints. This proved to be more difficult than expected. It seems that the manufacturer used a VERY good glue. I do a lot of marine woodworking and I never came accross this glue before. I like it because it adheres well and retains its flexibility, which is ideal for chairs.
If someone could tell me what this glue is and where to get it, it would definately make my day. The dried glue is a milky color and has a plastic like feel, almost like hot melt glue. I doubt that it’s hot melt, because it holds like no hot melt that I’ve ever run across. Maybe it’s an epoxy. I’m sure that it’s meant to be used for exterior 9possibly marine) use. It adheres to Teak like nobodys business and fills gaps well while retaining its structual integrity.
Thanks to all,
Plaemar
Replies
I would have guessed polyurethane, but I think that dries to a yellowish color.
Check out some of the Sikkens boat adhesives it sounds like one of their products Probably polyurathane based.Maybe Dr Dicro could jump in here?
I am pretty sure that polyurathane is not the answer, this adhesive is not that flexible and soft. It's harder and more like a harder flexable plastic, or as I stated before, like cooled hotmelt glue.
Plaemar
You called Jako? (blushing).
In a production shop where that furniture came from, my guess is that it is one of the really cool hot-melt, moisture cure polyurethenes that I want real bad, but can't justify yet.
3M makes an irreversible, cross-linked PUR hot melt (Jet-Melt¯ I think) that is claimed to have the strength of polyurethane with the speed of hot melt. This would make sense in a production shop - no clamping required. The gun and cartridges are expensive, and there are probably knock-offs that are better.
It could even be 3m 5200 or the more elastic (4200?) version.
Personally, I think PL Premium Polyurethane construction adhesive (found and most big box homecenters) is every bit as good (better than ANY wood glue, PVA, or PUR for porous substrates), but at a fraction of the cost (less than 3 bucks a tube).
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
Question, the smallest tube of PL Premium Polyurethane construction adhesive I have seen is 10 oz. if you do not use the full tube how do you seal it.
Scott T.
It seals itself fine, and I pick off the end to expose liquid again - never had a problem. The only thing the stuff doesn't stick to is the HDPE plastic snouts on the tube. If it hardens after a long while in the snout, I slit the snout shorter just slicing to the depth of the plastic, and am careful not to cut into the hardened glue glob. Then I grab the glue glob with pliers and pull - works every time.
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
Yes, it sounds like it's the jetmelt or an imitation. Good stuff! I think I'm going to start researching the costs, because I want that in my shop.
Thanksfor your time,
Pleamar
Just curious... do you work for PL Adhesives?
No Jack, not at all. I just never used an adhesive that so thouroghly blows away everything else, and I want to share this knowledge for the following reasons:
I've been using it by the case since the late eighties, back when it was not available to the general public, and after gallons of glue used, the benefits continue to show up, and I discover new uses where other glues fail, without any failure of PL.
In the professional world, its rare to find something that truly saves time, and truly is a benefit to its users, so I like to share tricks and tips that honestly have value
The main reason I promote PL, is that so few seasoned amatuers and pros alike have never even tried it. Marketed as construction adhesive, one wouldn't think of using it for normal woodworking - which is why many never even thought to try it.
Finally, I am an adhesive chemist with two patents in polymer science, so I know what I am talking about - PL is a moisture cure urethane with high cohesion (rare), and of the other expanding urethanes, PL bonds voids and porous end-grain better than any of the PUR's (my experience as well as theoretical).
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
Thanks for your detailed response. I'm going to look into this product.Cheers.
I was just checking this line and was wondering about open working time. I'm building an exterior door(someday) and am always looking for new ideas and products people have had success with. Thanks ahead
I used to work for a company making teak and mohogany furnature. We used tightbond, I'm sure you heard of it, but sometimes used epoxy. For joining we mostly used tightbond.
http://www.woodclassics.com/customer_service/
check out there website they might be able to help if you're that interested.
The company is very popular. Located in Gardiner, New York. Very nice furnature.
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