Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 20, 2009 06:50pm | #1

   If your current digital has the ability to set white balance, and is at least a couple of megapixels, you might be better off spending the $200 on lighting gear. Clamp-on utility lights with metal reflectors and 150W floods is a place to start. Then, make some diffusion panels out of PVC pipe and translucent fabric (no pattern), and some stands to hold them. That's the DIY equivalent of the softboxes the pros use. Light "stands" can be as simple as a broom handle screwed into an "X" made of 2x4s. The light from the floods will be "warm", but that can be corrected via the white-balance adjustment.

   In other words, it's more about the lighting than the camera. Get the book, "Light - Science and Magic" by Hunter and Fuqua. Adapt what they have to say to your hardware-store lighting gear.

   Try to keep the back of the camera plumb to avoid "keystoning". And, get some seamless background paper - 9', thunder gray is recommended, along with the inexpensive stands and pole to hold the paper roll.

   Once you get that down, but decide your photos aren't sharp enough, invest in a better camera. To get much of a noticeable difference in image quality, however, you'll need an DSLR that takes pro lenses (The $1,500-plus variety of lens).

   Oh, and one more thing. Try to avoid using wide-angle lenses. They will distort the geometry of the furniture if used at too close a distance.

2. 
   roc | Dec 20, 2009 09:16pm | #2

   If I could figure out how to search the old posts there was a thread a couple of weeks back all about cameras. Or maybe it was a couple of months back. Time flies.

   iPhone camera here, not great but not too bad.

   Ralph,

   Thanks for info on book/lighting. I was thinking it may help me see better in the shop if I learn how to control the light better. I get several layers of shadows going all different ways and it makes it worse.

1. 
   rwdare | Dec 20, 2009 11:10pm | #3

   Go to Rob Millard's site
   Go to Rob Millard's site http://www.americanfederalperiod.com and read his article on photographing furniture. Lots of really good info.

1. 
   RMillard | Dec 21, 2009 12:42pm | #5

   I need to update the photography page to reflect techniques I have learned. A quick synopsis of those changes needed are that instead of flooding light on scene, the light should be more controlled to isolate the subject from the background. I’ve done this inexpensively with a homemade softbox and a black cardboard snoot for a clamp on reflector. Also, a good editing program, judiciously applied can do wonders for photo.

   The links below show two photos taken with the same camera and nearly the same settings, but one was edited to bring out more detail and to have better color fidelity.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

   http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii75/rayvac/Spitfire3.jpg

   http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii75/rayvac/Spitfire1.jpg

2. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 21, 2009 12:48am | #4

   "I get several layers of shadows going all different ways and it makes it worse."

   That's common with multiple specular (non-diffused) light sources of near-equal intensity. Each light casts its own set of shadows. Diffusing the light with a light panel (translucent material stretched on a frame) or a large softbox softens the shadows substantially. When lights are directed at the back of the panel, the panel itself becomes the light source, and much larger than the light(s) alone, so the light is said to "wrap around" the subject, reducing shadows. Moving the "fill" lights farther away also reduces or eliminates the multiple shadow factor. But, you need enough space to work in, and the ability to control the exposure settings and the white balance on the camera.

   I have studio strobes and large softboxes, but I've got $thousands invested in camera and lighting gear - way overkill for the average woodworker. The occasional shooter can get by with a much simpler set-up.

3. 
   roc | Dec 30, 2009 12:55pm | #6

   I just ran across this so I figured I would pass it along.

   http://www.switched.com/2009/12/18/chase-jarvis-best-camera/

   I have not used this iPhone app yet, I am just putting it up for comment by those who know cameras or this photographer or have used the app. I mentioned earlier that I use an iPhone for what photos I post here though I want to get a more versatile camera some day. So I am following the more serious camera recommendations.