I am doing a little maintenance on my tools and wanted to protect my tops from scratches and rust. I purchased some T-9 Boeshield and laid a coat on but had to wipe a lot off because as I let it dry per the instructions it became more tacky and less of a lubricant as the label suggest. What is the best type of wax or lubricant to use over the T-9 to reduce the friction?
Bio
Replies
I use old fashoned johnson's floor wax. I've had the same can for years. Works great goes on easy off easy and no mess.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ok, I have some of that but wondered if it would be better than just normal car wax or was there something specifically built for wood working.
Bio
The only concern I would have about car wax is if there is silicone in it. There will be trouble when you go to finish if there is. Good old floor wax is easy and I don't need that much on mine and she's slick as a whistle. The can I just finished was in my parents house when they past away almost 10 years ago. I kept a small piece of cotton cloth in the can. A wipe down with mineral spirits, a quick swipe with 0000 SW and a very light coat. Wait 10 minutes and buff off. Like I said it's easy and it's like bril cream, a little dab a do ya. (sorry if you don't remember bril creame) and I probably misspelled that too. Have a good one. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I'm not familiar with boeshield, but I can address your question about the differences in waxes.
Raw-material waxes are generally beeswax, carnauba wax, parrafin wax, and occasionally, compounds of silicon (silca wax). The beeswax, of course, is the natural product from bees and is the softest at room temperature, with the lowest melting point. Carnauba wax is plant-based, and is harder and has a higher melting point than beeswax. Parrafin wax is a group of a range of aliphatic hydrocarbons derived from petroleum, and generally are harder and have a higher melting point than the other two. Silica wax is an entirely man-made compound that contains silicon and various hydrocarbon derivatives, and are produced in a wide range of melting points.
There are many more commercially available waxes than just the four I listed here (such as Candelilla wax, but most of the commercially available mixtures like Butcher's Bowling Alley wax, Briwax, Turtle Wax, etc... are mixtures of the four I listed and some sort of solvent. Typically, that solvent is mineral spirits or turpentine.
From the standpoint of which one to use on machined cast iron parts of woodworking equipment, that's largely a matter of what you have on hand and workability. Floor waxes, for example, generally contain a high percentage of Carnauba wax and dry quite hard after the solvent evaporates, and are designed to be buffed with high-speed floor buffers that generate the necessary heat by friction to remove the rough upper layer. Furniture waxes, like Briwax, generally have a much higher percentage of beeswax, which leaves a softer coating but can be efficiently buffed by hand.
Most car waxes contain a substantial fraction of silicone wax, and usually can be buffed quite effectively by hand. There's a slight possibility that the silicone in the mixture could affect some kinds of finishing products, notably laquer.
As far as protection from rust, all of the wax mixtures will effectively do this, because they're all hydrophobic (water-hating). They won't do it as well as cosmoline (axle grease), but I've not yet met a woodworker that's paranoid enough about surface rust to want to use it on their equipment. ;-)
From the standpoint of reducing friction, the harder waxes will be a bit better at this, because pure beeswax and typical furniture waxes leaves a very soft coating that's a bit sticky. That said, I really rather doubt you could tell a substantial difference without a friction sled and some calibrated measurement tools. In fact, because it's cheap and very easy to apply, that's exactly what I use - pure beeswax.
Bio,
I swear by Boeshield and use it atleast monthly on my machine tools, sometimes even weekly or daily depending on usage. I have heard of Boeshield leaving behind a sticky residue, but have never experienced. I have never read the can. Maybe that's why! I spray a thin layer on, wait about 5 minutes and wipe it off. That's it. If I want an even slicker surface, I follow up with Waxilit paste wax.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris,
That's the problem, I read and it said spray on heavy and let it sit if you want it to really build up. I think a thin coat would be better. I'll try that next
Bio
From my understanding, you only want a build-up if you plan to store your tools for a while and are concerned about rust. A thin coat is all that's needed. By the way, you can remove the build-up by reapplying Boeshield and wiping it off soon after.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
The table on my bosch is such tahat I don't wax it.
However in waxing the tables of a cabinet saw for example, is there a danger in the wax coming off on the raw wood and giving you finish problems later?
Just curious for when I get a better saw.
I wax the rails of my Tsaw fence and some other tools.Webby
Webby,
As long as the product doesn't contain silicone, you're safe. Both the products I use, Boeshield and Waxilit are silicone free.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I use Minwax paste wax on my tablesaw and never had a problem with finishing.
So it comes of the table saw with a coat of wax on it? Eliminates that dreaded finishing process, does it, eh? I like your thinking. Off to shellac my table saw...
Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Edited 7/22/2008 9:18 pm by flairwoodworks
Edited 7/22/2008 9:18 pm by flairwoodworks
I have used Minwax paste wax for years. A whole lot cheaper than Boeshield.
Seems like someone tested a number of products for protections from rust. Someone might remember which mag it was in.
Alan - planesaw
I'm pretty sure it was in Popular Woodworking in the past year..seems like Boeshield came out on top and paste wax near the bottom...3in1 did well too...if you can rely on a 59 yr old memory (I know I can....occasionally).
Neil
Okay, no silicon.
I use minwax furniture wax.
Thanks for the info.Webby
I use Renaissance Wax and HTC machine covers to protect my cast iron tops. Renaissance Wax dries hard, prevents rust and with continued use polishes metal leaving a smooth slick finish for wood to slide on. It is expensive but our machine tools are worth it.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1304
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
Thanks, I'll check it out.
Bio
Basically, Boeshield T9 is wax based. So spray it on, let it set a minute or two and the just very lightly wipe it with a soft cloth. You are just evenly distributing it on the surface. Now let it fully dry overnight. Even though it's a wax, it does not leave a particularly slippery surface.
For a more slippery surface, just very lightly apply a thin film of an furniture paste wax. Do not rub aggressively or long as the solvents in the wax will dissolve the Boeshield. Let the paste wax fully dry and then buff it smooth.
Do not use a car wax as most contain silicone which can get on wood as you are cutting. Silicone will play havoc with your finishing process. Regular paste will thoroughly buffed will not present any finishing problems.
Thanks, I think I put to much T9 on.
Any good paste wax will do. I used to get paraffin and put 2 blocks broken up in quart jar with turpentine. Give it a shake every day or two. put a lid on it and in about a week or so you have a stinking wax. Works good though.
Ya shake it AFTER you put the lid on it.
Edited 7/23/2008 11:59 pm ET by larryscabnuts
I also used the old Johnson floor wax for years and it works. I also read that silicone can be a problem. I buff the wax with my random orbit sander and a piece of felt cloth. More info on this page of my web site - http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org/ROBuffer.htm
Best,
Serge
- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
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