After cutting a tapered leg I tried to clean up the cut by attaching a straight edge template with double sided tape and running the two pieces by a double flute, flush bearing, router bit. This is on a Bosch Router table which is dead flat. The work piece was carefully milled and the template is a flat, straight piece of nine layered plywood. This is new to me and the result is a wavy finish. Any suggestions.
Thanks for your help.
Replies
The first most likely problem to me is feed rate. In the same way a jointer will leave a smoother cut the slower the feed, you might be feeding the cutter too fast. You will also get a messy finish if wood chips are getting between the template and the bearing. The next on my list of suspects would be the agressiveness of the two-sided tape. Lastly, the firmness of the router mounting should be checked. There will probably be something I didn't think of, but I'm sure someone else will speak up, if so.
I forgot to ask about your depth of cut, you should be only removing the minimum amount to remove the saw marks, possibly in two passes if the wood is very dense.
I am sorry to break this into two responses, this is new to me. The tape seems to be excellent. I will check the firmness of the router. The depth of the cut is less than 1/16 of an inch. Thank you for your suggestions.
Second part of my response. I will try a slower feed rate. There are no chips getting between the template and the workpiece. Thanks again.
Hildy, it sounds like your basic tecnique is good, so it must be one of the "feed rate, tape thickness, router firmness" type problems. Good luck with it, let us know when you find out what it was.
When I do operations like the one you describe, especially with wider stock, I use a bit with the largest diameter I can find. I had similar results using a Bosch table and a PC 3 1/2 hp router using a 1/2" diameter bit. Very wavy cuts. After switching to a 1" diameter bit, WOW! what a difference. Glass smooth cuts. Bosch has a decent 1" bit, but I highly recommend a Whiteside. It cuts cleaner and it's made in the USA.
Regards,
Sean
I am using a 1/2" diameter bit. It is a brand new Diablo bit with a cutting length of 2". My workpiece is 1 1/4" thick. Will a 2 1/4 hp router drive a 1" diameter bit? Thank you.
I use you set-up often. I use a 3/4" - 1" bit. If one side of the piece won't show.. I drill a pilot hole in the template and attach with a counter-sunk sheet metal screw. If you use double sided tape.. be sure it is not slipping.
Will a 2 1/4 HP handle a 1" bit? If you slow down the feed rate the same as I do on a 3 1/2 HP Milwaukee table mount and 2 1/4 HP Milwaukee on hand held using the bearing bit. And I want take the 1/16" as you do. I prefer to take about half of that.
Sarge..
Will a 2 1/4 HP handle a 1" bit? .. I picked your post to respond because it sounded correct in my mind.
My old PC 1.5 Hp (in a table) will handle a Whiteside 3 inch Lock Miter bit. NO I DO NOT cut a stick in one pass. I could be wrong, but I 'think' the added mass of the bit keeps things much smoother. Actually the bit is labeled as 2.750 diameter but the widest diameter is actually 3 inches and the cutting edge will cut about 1.375 inch (I think 0.375 is 1/8 inch?) I forget exactly. It seems that the router 'likes' the extra mass IF you take light cuts.
In the original post it was never mentioned the shaft diameter of the bit. Or if the router has ZERO movement in the table. As in the plate holding the router FITS the opening in the table exactally!
Just me...
AND if the 'stick' is not curved, I always use a fence.
Even if it is curved, you can make a fence for the bit with two pointed sticks clamped in place to the radius. OK, so if the stick is long enough to fit the two fences. If not you need extra wood length and then trim to length wanted.
Edited 10/1/2008 3:41 pm by WillGeorge
I don't make a complete cut with a 1/2" round-over bit Will. I take two as I am in no hurry.. I don't like inviting trouble and I find that two passes pretty much eliminate a rough cut as you can sometimes get by trying to take it all in one shot with 3/8" and over.
But... I feel it is important to slow the speed once you get to 1" and over. I forgot to do it once and the bit jolted on initial impact and came out of the chuck. Possible I didn't have the chuck tight enough but... I really think it could have been a combination of that and too fast of a speed. And it did it when hitting a knot in pine as it was on an outside deck railing. So... I always slow down the big boys.. take several passes and be absolutely sure the chuck is tight.
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge ,
I do the same 2 passes with larger router bits depending on the wood who knows ?
Sarge , I'm gonna take a risk and suggest you need a shaper and a power feeder / stock feeder . One pass on the shaper no more pushing and pulling . Running all the footage you seem to some how end up running now that you have The Big Bertha Steel City power plant , my friend , it's time for a decent not a light weight stock feeder I would say a 1hp will be fine . Get an extra base , leave one on the shaper and if your saw table will allow put one there too , or they get bolted in place .
I'm not telling you what to do but ,,,,,,,,,I hope you understand this unsolicited and free advice .
regards dusty
I can't justify the shaper, Dusty. I really don't do that much raised panels, etc.... even though I may decide to build some molding from scratch in the future for some side money. If so.. then I would need a shaper indeed. I do my own molding for the house but the house is paid for and all add-on's have basically been added on at this point. I just purchased 50 board feet of quarter sawn white oak for a coffee table in progress. The two chest I just built used around 200 board feet so my own projects don't really warrant the shaper.
The large bundles of air dried footage I get every so often has been to a saw-mill and been pre-cut to 5/4.. 6/4.. 8/4.. 10/4.. 12/4 with some 16/4. I simply have to produce one square edge on the jointer.. rip it to get maximum foot-age taking out taper and then surface it to S4S. Comes to me on a flat-bed.. stays a couple of days and then leaves pronto on a flat-bed. I get a check with helps off-set retiring early before 62. That means I can go get a gallon of gas :>)... if I can find it which is a problem down south at the moment as gas supply has been hampered with the hurricane on the Texas coat. You burn a gallon of gas trying to find a gallon of gas. ha.. ha...
But.. a power feeder has already been considered as I mentioned to D. Green. I would bolt it on after drilling holes in the top which doesn't bother me at all. I got to use the one from Steel City at IWF as the table on my Industrial 5 HP is larger than a 3 HP. . The Steel City 1 HP PF is very nice and uses the same components as the one's on the leading brand that cost around $2 K for the equilavent unit from them. It's around $1 K at the moment and I have the word out if a "scratch and dent" pops up... give me a call.
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 10/2/2008 9:54 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sounds to me like it could be chatter from the stock or router not being held tight , are you using any type of finger boards or hold downs ,a dull cutter can give the same result too ?
dusty
The cutter is brand new. The method I am using has no fence, the table is open and I start by placing the workpiece against a starter pin and then swing the leading edge of the template against the bearing on top of the cutter. I don't see where I could use a finger board. Thanks for the response.
Hildy,
You got a lot of good answers already.
I was thinking... did you use a thicker, foam type 2-sided tape? That stuff can 'bounce' a little.
Frank
True, I have had a lot of good responses. Yes, it is a thick, double sided tape. Thanks for your response.
i find that templates made from plywood, even good stuff , tends to give wavy results.we always use mdf at our shop. it gives a smoother cut.and we do millions a year in sales.all large commercial fixtures for future shop, bestbuy, flight center.... we rout miles of pattern and its all mdf templates.just a thought.most router officiundo's will probably disagree, but you could try and see.good luck
I will try MDF. Fortunately I have 1/2" & 3/4" stock on hand. Thank you
Replace the bearing on the bit. It's either worn or of low quality.
It is a brand new, never used flush bearing bit. Thank you.
A new bit unfortunately isn't a guarantee of a good bearing. You can give it a rough and ready check by trying to wiggle the bearing. Any perception of movement at all except rotation is not acceptable.Good luck sorting it out.
Have to agree with Gossamer on using MDF regardless if that is or is not the problem. I keep several sheets of 1/2" MDF broken down to 2 x 4 in my sheet rack just for templates. It's cheap.. it is must easier to take down to 1 mm and finish with rasp.. files.. etc. when truing the template edges.
And it would be hard to disagree with Observer on checking the bearing bit. They wear with use and if it's a cheap bearing as he mentioned... it is probably out of round. Details.. details.. details often make big differences in end results.
Good luck...
Sarge..
I have 1/2" and 3/4" MDF on hand. I will try the MDF in lieu of the plywood. Brand new router bit. Thank you.
How about getting out your favorite sharp spoke shave or hand plane and take those wavy marks away in a couple passes, then finish up with a nice sharp scraper?
A year ago we had a commission for a bunch of craftsman style chairs and we used the template approach and seemed to always get some waves no matter what so we just milled a hair on the light side and slicked everything up with the spoke shave and scraper. Smooth as silk and quicker than trying to solve the wavy router problem.
The other suggestions here are great as well, particularly the comments on using MDF for templates.
Have fun!
Madison
Liked your post.
OK, so I'm a nut and like David Marks work. He makes MDF templates for everything! Router cut and if you watch his shows he almost always 'finishes' off the curves etc. with flexible sanding strips, rasps and scrapers.
My practice stock is southern pine but I will be using curly maple for the table. I will try using a hand plane. I bought a Hock wood plane kit and it seems to do a very good job so far. I have read that it would be good for more difficult stock like I will be using. Thank you.
Hildy:
If you're going to be planing the curly maple make sure your blade is scary sharp and that you've ground it to a very high angle these two will help you avoid the tear out that often occurs with curly grains. There have been severa excellent articles on the topic of planing wavy and curly grain in FW over the past couple years. I'd suggest you do some researc there as well.
Curly stuff is great for your cabinet scraper and will really eliminate the tear out issue too.
Have fun and let the wood teach you as you go.
Madison
I have found the problem to my wavy results. Following up on a suggestion that I check the firmness of my router I realized that the motor was slipping. I called Porter Cable and they suggested that I tighten the nut that controls the band in the base which holds the motor in place. This did not solve the problem so I will be bringing my router to one of their service centers. Thanks for all of the problem solving ideas, I have made a note for each of them and will add this information to my notes on using routers. Sorry for the delay in my response: my Gran daughter came to visit which gets all of my attention.
Are you climb cutting perhaps? If so , reverse your feed direction. If this is not the problem, check the template ,then the bearing on the bit. Try changing the bearing, make sure the new bearing is the same size as the cutter. You did not say what species you are milling. If it is extra hard, hickory, bubunga etc you may want to take even lighter cuts then the 1/16" or so you are trying now.
mike
I am sure I am not climb cutting. The flush bearing bit is brand new and the bearing size seems to be the same size as the bit but I will measure it to be sure. I am cutting southern pine as a practice run. I will be using curly maple for the table. Thank you.
I agree with the size jump up on the bit to start with. But, does the lumber have any wave or curly in it. Curly maple, especially, will give you a ripples it your not careful. A down or up shear bit will help in that case as well as feather boards.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
The lumber I am using is for practice purposes, it is southern pine. The table I am making is Curly Maple. Thanks
i have found the problem to my wavy results. Following up on a suggestion that I check the firmness of my router I realized that the motor was slipping. I called Porter Cable and they suggested that I tighten the nut that controls the band in the base which holds the motor in place. This did not solve the problem so I will be bringing my router to one of their service centers. Thanks for all of the problem solving ideas, I have made a note for each of them and will add this information to my notes on using routers. Sorry for the delay in my response: my Gran daughter came to visit which gets all of my attention.
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