Replies

1. 
   Metod | Dec 05, 2013 12:55pm | #1

   Much depends on individual's preference. Oilstones are OK on O1 steel, but less so for A2. I use waterstones - but with oil, and am happy with results. Few month ago I gave diamond stones a try. I have been using for several years a small diamond hone (1"x3") and diamond coated steels for cutlery. This ay it was not to chancy to go for the planes and chisels. 

   Currently I use most often the following sequence: Fo rough shaping of the edges ither a bench grinder or a belt sander with 80 grit zirconia belt. Then quickly a medium and then fine (600) diamond plate. After that to a cast iron plate smeared with 1 micron diamond powder. I had some cast iron laying around for years that I chopped into smaller sizes. After that a few strokes with chromium oxide charged leather strop.

   When an edge gets dull I refresh it with a strop. When duller yet, I drop to 600 plate, 1 micron plate and finally strop. On the strop, only 3-5 8" strokes. I learne about the 600 - 1 micron - strop sequence on another forum. I already had some cast iron (as recommended) and strops. The diamond powder was only a few $$ on e-bay. I took a chance on the 600 diamond plate, and am happy with the result.

   A couple of weeks ago I tried my diamond powder on a mild (1018) steel bar that I had from a project. I do not think that it is inferior to the cast iron for this purpose. Mild steel is easy to get and not expensive. Just sand it smooth and shiny/flat.

   Best wishes,

   Metod

2. 
   hackmeister | Dec 05, 2013 01:33pm | #2

   Many systems

   Hi,

   I use a couple of different methods to sharpen in my "system", mostly because I hate dull tools and I hate to stop working to sharpen, so I want to do it as fast and easy as possible.

   I do primary bevels with a slow speed wet grinder because it is fast and easy, and I got a great deal on a Tormek a number of years ago.  Since it is just mindless removal of metal, anything that speeds it up and makes it simpler is good.

   To do the secondary bevel, I use a waterstone.  I have a 800/4000 combo that I use just the 4000 side of.  After that I hit it quick (so the bevel doesn't round) on the leather wheel of the Tormek with lapping compound.  I do touch ups with the waterstone and leather wheel.  It takes about 60 seconds total between the two.  I don't regrind the primary bevel until the secondary gets too large and takes too long to touch up.  I do the waterstone and leather wheel free hand; it is fast and easy with practice.

   For flattening backs, I use sandpaper if the tool/blade needs a lot of flattening.  From there a fine diamond stone, then extra fine, then finally polishing the last 1/4 - 1/2 inch on the leather wheel.

   I prefer waterstones because they seem cleaner; water and swarth seems easer to clean up than kerosene and swarth, plus water is much easier on the skin.  Also, I think it easier and cheaper to find good waterstones than good oilstones.

   If I was starting out, I would get the 800/4000 waterstone because it is inexpensive and versatile, and 4000 is sharp enough for most things.  The 800 side would be good for cleaning up nicks and dings on edges.  I would get a slow speed 8" grinder (I think someone makes one for about $150) when I could afford it and put on a decent white friable wheel to reduce heat.  A fine/extra fine diamond combo stone is really handy, but not necesary, same with lapping.  You could also get a 6000 or 8000 stone instead of lapping.

   I have tried basically every conventional (and unconventional) method of sharpening.  All have their plusses and minues, best is to pick the best one (that you do well) for the situation.  No need to be married to any one method for all situations.

1. 
   Recruiter | Dec 05, 2013 03:43pm | #3

   Trying to zero in

   It's been recommended to me, to try the DMT diamond stones.  I haven't considered it, simply because of initial cost outlay.  It's not in the budget. 

   My initial grind is on a white 8" high speed grinder.  As long as you take light touches, and quench often, you should never have to worry about overheating, or at least I haven't.

   From there, I usually go to an old med/fine grit oilstone that I inherited.  There aren't any markings, but it cuts well.  From there I have been using sandpaper on glass.  800, 1200 and 2000 grit wet/dry that I get at an auto supply shop.  It has been working for the last couple of years, but I don't see it as a long term method. 

   There are so many pros and cons to both methods, I am trying to focus on a final long term sharpening method.  I hate when you finally decide on something, only to ultimately kick yourself later saying, I should have done that!

1. 
   forrestb | Dec 05, 2013 07:04pm | #4

   Think about wood

   Oil used on stones and wood don't go together very well - specially at finish time. I used a slow water wheel, water on sandpaper, and water stones.  Just be sure to thoroughly dry and JPW the iron.

   Forrest