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I’m finishing a cherry dresser and was going to use Jeff Jewitt’s “pop the curl” method. I’ve already laid on the Boiled Linseed Oil, let it cure for two weeks, and was going to topcoat with a 1 3/4 lb cut of De-waxed (blonde) shelac.
In Jeff Jewitt’s article, he states that after padding on the shelac, you can topcoat with any finish you like. I’d like to topcoat the shelac with waterborne poly.
Question 1: Will the shelac(de-waxed) seal the oil enough that I’ll be able to top it off with a waterborne finish? And, how many coats of what LB cut to use?
Question 2: Are there any preperations I should make to the shelac to help the waterborne poly adhere(ie: sanding w/scotch brite)
Question 3: Has anyone had any experiences in topcoating oil with Waterborne after sealing with shelac(de-waxed)? Good? Bad? How is the finish holding up?
I know that shelac is enough protection for bedroom funiture. I’m not interested in using laquer or other topcoat, I’m looking specificly at Waterbased poly over oil, because I’m insane. Thankyou all in advance,
-JD
Replies
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In answer to your questions:
1. Yes, the dewaxed shellac will seal in the oil and prevent adhesion problems. I usually use one coat of a 1 or 2 pound cut, but more than one coat won't hurt. I should also add that with most of today's water-based products, adhesion over oil isn't really much of an issue, so you might not need the shellac at all. However, it is a good idea to try it on a test piece first. When in doubt, go with the shellac.
2. The shellac may raise the grain a bit, though if the oil is cured and smooth it probably won't. Even so, the coat(s) of shellac will most likely have some rough spots that need to be sanded. Use a fine grit (320)paper or pad to lightly smooth the shellac and remove any blemishes. If you are able to spray on a perfectly smooth coating of shellac, you don't need to sand it for any adhesion purposes.
3. I have done this on numerous occasions and it has always worked well. The shellac seals in the oil, adds a bit more amber color and provides a good surface for the topcoat to bond to. I've never had a problem or complaint.
Good luck,
Andy Charron
*The shellac IS the topcoat. The only thing it needs will be a good waxing. Use two coats of Myland's untinted wax and you're done. Unless you completely abuse fine furniture (unlikely since you built it yourself) you will probably never need a polyurethane anything. And for God's sake, certainly not over a beautiful finish like shellac. Surely, Jeff Jewitt did not recommend poly over shellac! Mr. Jewitt??
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