What would be the advice for applying the waterlox original sealer on surfaces that are not dead flat but that have prominent hand planing marks? This particular project is a black walnut countertop for a kitchen island that is hand planed, distressed, and reads as indidvidual boards rather than a seamless glue-up. There are no kitchen appliances cut into this top.
My problem seems to occur when sanding between coats. Since there is a certain topography to the surface, the sandpaper inevitably takes finish off the highs while leaving the lows unsanded. I am using 220 on a padded block (wood block with that rubbery open weave fabric that is used for sanding mats). Subsequent coats reveal this sanding discrepany, something I think steve schoen has referred to as witness marks. 220 may seem aggressive from what I have read in other posts but I feel it necessary in order to avoid what I would call a ‘fat’ looking finish. It seems to me that if the finish is allowed to sort of round into the pore openings, which will occur if no leveling takes place, I will get this fat look. I believe this has to do with how light reflects off of a rounded surface as opposed to a crisp edge.
Would I be better off applying thinned out coats and just using some 0000# wool between coats to de-nib? Would I be better off using the satin at the end to cut down on the light reflection. The sheen of the original is a little to shiny for me. All thoughts appreciated!