Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Jul 24, 2008 06:46pm | #1

   You should have used an oil or acrylic rather than latex. You can top coat with a WB clear. I've done so with some special paint jobs. It may change the look and sheen but it will take the brunt of wear and be easier to clean.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   davidbrum | Jul 24, 2008 09:07pm | #3

   Thanks Hammer. That is beautiful work. Was that WB over latex?davidb

1. 
   hammer1 | Jul 25, 2008 03:58am | #9

   Essentially, it's waterborne poly over latex. Red primer, latex, not acrylic, I couldn't get acrylic to feather out, it just wanted to pill and roll. Oil glazing in venetian red, enamel specking covered with waterborne, slightly buffed and waxed. Those are some scraps left over from a kitchen. Some cabinets and moldings were done in the distressed paint. The interiors and shelves were just painted and coated with the WB. Everything still looks original after a few years, even though some nicks and dings would fit right in with the look.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   davidbrum | Jul 25, 2008 04:10am | #12

   Very nice work Hammer. I'll bet your wife loves it.davidb

1. 
   hammer1 | Jul 25, 2008 04:45am | #15

   Thanks for the compliment, David. My more than deserving wife is seldom on the client list. The lady I did the kitchen for cried, in a good way. I do have a project going for our house that should be finished in a week or so. The kitchen is my domain, so that won't get anything for a while, when I do, it will be on the cheap.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 24, 2008 06:56pm | #2

   Putting a hard finish over a soft one is never a good idea, and over one that may even be defective is a horrible idea, just setting it up for failure.  So I'd think you may be in for a stripping job. 

   Latex paint is not what you want for cabinets, unless you are using that as a generic for any waterborne paint.  You want a 100% acyrlic. And it should be the top of a good line--Benjamine Moore or Sherwin Williams for example.  But most paints are designed primarily for brushing, and unlike oil based paints, can only be thinned a very limited amount to get a good viscosity for spraying depending on your set up.  Airless spraying is very hard to get a high end finish but doesn't require as low a viscosity as many HVLP set ups.

   The color of paint can be matched in any brand and so can the sheen, though sometimes with a bit more effort, so you don't have to stick with an inferior brand.  You can even have custom colors made up to match a sample in paints designed specifically for HVLP spraying, such as Target USL.   

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/24/2008 11:58 am ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   Quickstep | Jul 24, 2008 09:15pm | #4

   I've shot a bunch of Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic with good results. In some cases, I've even thinned it more that would be considerded sensible and still got good results. To me, it behaves a lot like oil. The other thing I like is that it dries pretty hard sowhen I use it on shelves, stuff (like books) doesn't stick to it.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 24, 2008 10:44pm | #6

   That is the plus of a 100% acyrlic that is a top of the line product. 

2. 
   davidbrum | Jul 24, 2008 09:22pm | #5

   Thanks for the response Steve. I did thin the latex around 5% and sprayed it with an HPLV sprayer. The paint is "Collections of Color", pretty expensive stuff from our local paint store. The main ingredient is acrylic, but it does have other ingredients like proplyene glycol and alchohol. I was hoping that it would eventually harden, but perhaps I've permanently screwed up it's hardening ability?BTW, what will happen if I coat with a harder clearcoat?Thanks!
   davidb

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 24, 2008 10:52pm | #7

   Nothing is certain, the overcoating might work OK, but it is possible that down the road as the components cure further and become more brittle, you could get adhesion problem.  That's the incidious thing, sometimes problems take quite a while to reveal themselves. 

   Thinning 5% shouldn't be a problem.  Proplyene glycol isn't a resin, its the most common solvent in waterborne paint.  (Water isn't a solvent in waterborne paint, it is just a carrier of the little packets of resin/solvent material.)  If this is the C2 brand paint Collections of Color then that is 100% acyrlic. 

   I think I'd give this a few or a week more to see what happens.  For example humidity levels in the shop could be retarding the cure, etc.   

1. 
   davidbrum | Jul 25, 2008 04:01am | #10

   Thanks SteveMy garage's humidity is 70% at 70F. I will give it a few weeks to cure, although I'm prepared to sand all the doors down if I need to. I checked with another local paint store which carries oil based products in similar tones. It certainly sounds like that's the way I should have gone to start with. Next time I'll know.BTW, it is the C2 brand.Thanks again,
   davidb

   Edited 7/24/2008 9:04 pm ET by davidbrum

3. 
   Gretchen | Jul 25, 2008 12:46am | #8

   Whatever is your final answer for saving this, tell the interior designer to get a life and some knowledge about paint. That is inexcusable and should be pointed out to him/her that he/she is responsible for that MISTAKE.

   Gretchen
1. 
   davidbrum | Jul 25, 2008 04:08am | #11

   I think I'll do that Gretchen. Maybe I can get her to help me sand the old paint off.davidb

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 25, 2008 04:28am | #13

   It's will be easier to use stripper than to sand it off.  A soft finish just gums up paper in an instant. 

1. 
   davidbrum | Jul 25, 2008 04:44am | #14

   Ten-four Steve.

2. 
   Gretchen | Jul 25, 2008 02:02pm | #16

   Oh, geez, don't sand. Strip.  But she does deserve to learn the best uses of different paints.Gretchen