Replies

1. 
   Kell | May 14, 2003 10:45pm | #1

   I can answer one question.  Although the manufacturer doesn't recommend it, I have successfully sprayed Polycrylic.  I found it superior to brushing.  There were small nibs that needed rubbing down but they were less obtuse than I've gotten brushing the same thing.

   Good luck,

   Kell

2. 
   Kevin | May 14, 2003 10:59pm | #2

   I don't work with brushable clears or waterbased clears, so I really can't address that aspect of your question.

   As for the "wet" look you want... the glossier the clear, the more "wet" it will look when it's dry. In automotic clears they refer to it as a "glamour" clear. Same thing, though. Only the very highest sheen clears qualify as "glamour" clears in automotive clears. I would apply the same rational to the "wet" look wood clears.

   As a side note I would like to mention that the higher gloss clears bring out warm tones in the wood or stained wood. Likewise, lower gloss clears, such as satin, bring out the cooler tones in wood or stained wood. The same applies to other substraits besides wood. So... you may find that using an exceptionally glossy clear gives you both the "wet" look you want as well as just enough of a warm look without looking yellow.

   I hope that helps.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   mtngrover | May 14, 2003 11:48pm | #3

   Kevin, now that you mention it, the semi-gloss Crystalac did seem to have a slightly "wetter" look than the satin.  I hadn't really thought of it in those terms when I was looking at them beside each other.   Thanks for the input. 

   I would definitely like to hear from anyone who has done side-by-sides between the Crystalac finishes and any others.  The Crystalac I got for testing (Premium 2000) is supposedly slightly more yellow than the Super Premium 2001.  I may need to try that one, also. 

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | May 14, 2003 11:58pm | #4

   There's not a single finish that matches all your specifications.

   The Premium Spray Lacquer (PSL) from Target Coatings is very clear, has 100% burn-in between coats, and can be sprayed. Used in combination with the water-base shellac from Target, you can get the "wet" look of a solvent based finish. It can be brushed if you use a good brush and add some SA5 retarder.

   The "Super Clear Polyurethane" from Target is the clearest finish I've seen, but it doesn't have 100% burn-in. I'm not sure if it can be brushed. Again, you'd need to start with the water-base shellac to get the "wet" look.

   Target's "Oxford Varnish" is a water-base varnish that provides the "wet" look and it can be sprayed or brushed equally well. But it has an amber color and doesn't have 100% burn-in.

   Fuhr 355 has an amber color (sometimes a blue-gray cast as well) and doesn't have 100% burn-in or develop the "wet" look. Not sure about the 375 - I haven't tried it.

   Paul

1. 
   mtngrover | May 15, 2003 12:19am | #5

   Thanks, Paul S. 

   I was wondering about the supposed "amber" color of the Oxford Hybrid and the Fuhr 355.  The Crystalac Premium 2000 is supposed to have a slight amber cast as well (per McFeeley's), but I actually found it to have less color than the Polycrylic.

   I think I am starting to lean towards the Target PSL, at least to order a trial quart.  How would you compare the look and application of the Target waterbased shellac sealers to that of more traditional alcohol dissolved shellacs?  To date, my experience with shellac is limited to the one trial sample I did for this project with Hock Blonde dewaxed. 

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | May 15, 2003 01:44am | #6

   Although it's a waterborne finish, the Oxford varnish actually has an oil content and it develops a nice amber coloring as it cures. I'd guess the oil content is the reason it cures slower than a lot of waterborne finishes.

   The water-base blonde shellac has a slight amber coloring like an alcohol shellac. It's the same flakes, mixed by chemistry wizards to make it water reducible. As an alternative, there is a grade of shellac flakes, called "platina" or "utltra-blond" that is as close to clear as you can get. The on-line finishing suppliers carry it (though they haven't agreed on a name yet).

   Paul

4. 
   notDusty | May 15, 2003 05:15pm | #7

          mtngrover ,        Just a note reguardless of what type of coatings you use sanding or rubbing between coats generally is a must . This gives you a chance to get out all the fuzz and other un desireables that may appear after the first coatings .In my opinion unless you have a great spray booth or other dust free area a finish with less open or drying time may be to your advantage.Lacquer is available in what is called water white or clear , non yellowing .One thing to remember is even though the coatings may be clear and non yellowing there is little we can do to prevent the wood from yellowing ,mainly  from U.V. rays.Also in most cases the sanding between coats offers better adhesion.    good luck 

1. 
   Sancho | May 15, 2003 10:43pm | #8

   I like enduro coat from compliant spray systems http://www.compliantspraysystems.com . Id go with a high gloss if ya want a 'wet look" multiple coats (3 or 4) if ya want the debth. Ive heard very good things about fuhr http://www.homesteadfinishing.com also  

   Darkworks:  Its all 'bout da squilla

1. 
   Jeffj | May 16, 2003 03:17pm | #9

   When you say "wet" look with darker grain, I'm sure what you're talking about is the effect provided by a solvent shellac wiped on the wood and allowed to dry before applying a water base. Typically the 100% acrylics have the water-white and optical clarity you're after.

   Jeff