Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 11, 2005 08:23pm | #1

   Nope.  You need(ed) to mask off the areas that were to be glued.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   Pondfish | Mar 11, 2005 10:29pm | #2

   Watco will penetrate only slightly into the wood (maybe 1/64" in face grain, more in end grain), so you can sand over places that got oiled without hurting the fit too much.  Or use a card scraper to scrape off the oil (give it 2 days to dry). 

   Ditto for everything FG wrote about masking and glue not sticking. 

   The plus side is dried glue drips will peel right off oiled wood, giving you an easy cleanup.

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 13, 2005 09:24am | #3

   Paul, I think he mentioned wax too, right?  Wouldn't he have to take that off before sanding?  Mineral spirits should do it.  Maybe I'm being paranoid, whadya think?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   splintergroupie | Mar 13, 2005 01:28pm | #4

   It's not clear if he wants the glue to adhere or not. I prefinish the insides of my boxes so the glue squeeze in the miters pops out easily.

1. 
   tbird | Mar 14, 2005 03:32pm | #5

   Thanks for your help.  The intent of the question was to verify that glue would not stick to a surface previouslty finished with Watco.  The area that i am concerned with is a sliding dovetail latch whose sliding part must be glued together around the fixed part and obviously, I don't want them stuck together.  Thanks again.

1. 
   Kent_F | Mar 14, 2005 10:11pm | #6

   In that case, Murphy's Law indicates that glue will stick to Watco only when you don't want it to.

   Seriously,  a good coat of wax on the not-to-be-glued parts will provide some insurance.