After reading several articles by Jeff Jewett, Rob Millard’s very helpful blog and a number of posts here including one on sanding by Howard Acheson, I have come up with the following plan for finishing the walnut fireplace mantel I have been working on. I have a few questions but first the proposed finish schedule:
Hand Sand to 220
Dye sapwood to match heartwood (one bad spot)
Dye entire piece to give more uniform color and a bit of warmth
Wash coat w/ dewaxed dark shellac ~1.5lb cut
Lightly sand w/320-400-600? grit or Grey pad
Fill pores in top (and front edge?)
Gel stain – brush on, wipe off
Dry 3-7 days
Seal coat of dewaxed dark shellac or Seal Coat ~2lb cut
Cure overnight, scuff sand
Top coat Target USL
For top:
3 coats
Wet sand 320 or 400 grit
2 coats
Wait 7 days or so
Rub out P1200 and water+soap?, then 0000+ paste wax cut w/ mineral spirits
For molding and carvings:
3 coats
Wait 7 days
Rub out w/ 0000+paste wax
I plan to try some test pieces.
The mantel consists of the top, a molding below that is glued up from three parts and carved blocks on either side. Some pics of the cardboard prototype and the parts are attached. I plan to finish the parts separately before assembling them because I am worried about keeping things even, runs, etc with a large flat top and carvings and a deep molding underneath. Does this make sense? I have never prefinished parts before.
Other questions:
Do I need to sand/level the two shellac coats or should I not bother sanding until after the first three coats of USL?
Should I try to fill the pores on either the molding or the carved blocks?
Does it make sense to stop with the three coats of USL on the molding and carved blocks and then rub out w/000 or should I give them five coats just like the top?
Any other thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. I have never done any carving before so this is my first try at finishing one.
I have sprayed water based clear coats before but not Target USL. I have read lots of good things about it – any tips?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
Replies
Chris,
I will give a shot at answering some of your questions and offer some advice.
I have prefinished many times. Just keep the finish off any surfaces that will be glued, and keep glue off the surfaces that are already finished. It will wipe up with a wet rag easily if the surface is already finished provided you get it right away.
Be careful with the garnet shellac. Every coat will darken the piece more and more.
I don't see the point of rubbing out with 1200 grit paper and then applying wax with 0000 steel wool. 0000 steel wool is equivalent to 400-600 grit sandpaper so it is somewhat like sanding wood to 220 and then going over it again with 120. Either apply the wax without the steel wool or skip the 1200.
I would lightly sand the shellac coats.
You are generaly wasting time if you fill the pores on anything other than flat, horizontal surfaces. Vertical and uneven sufaces will not show wether the pores are filled or not in normal viewing.
I haven't used USL, but I believe it is a high solids finish that will build quickly. 3 coats is probably enough on everything. Especially if you aren't rubbing it out.
Rob
Thanks Rob. I appreciate the advice.
Chris
Chris,
I'm glad you found the walnut finishing post of use.
I would add one thing and make a suggestion about another.
I would use a shoe shine brush, charged with mineral oil and 4f pumice to knock the gloss off your carved areas; even steel wool is too aggressive and might cut through the finish, which with the glaze can be difficult to fix.
The other thing is, I'd contact Jeff Jewitt and see what he thinks about the USL, near the dry heat of a fireplace. My guess is it would be fine, but I'm not sure.
Please post a photo when it is complete.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Rob,
Thanks for the suggestion about the shoe shine brush and pumice. I have never carved anything worth finishing before so I appreciate the suggestions there.I got the USL from Jeff and I think I mentioned to him when I bought it that it was for a fireplace mantel but I will double check. The mantel is pretty far from the fire box opening - at least 20 inches so I don't think it will get too hot.Your blog is very helpful and your work is inspiring. I hope to try some inlay on my next project.
Chris
Rob, I have been struggling with ways to "kill" the gloss on table-top edge-detailing (ovolo, etc.) without losing the crisp details. The shoe brush idea sounds good. Have you tried it for this application?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
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