Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 21, 2008 04:17pm | #1

   Hi Dick,

   Sounds like a nice table.

   The most "water white" finish I would use, as a first choice, would be CAB Acrylic lacquer. It doesn't have any of the yellowing tendencies that other lacquers do.

   The next choice would be one of the water borne finishes. They have a bluish cast when being applied but dry clear. I've heard some comments that they tend to have a "coldness" to their appearance.

   If you don't spray lacquer consider a finishing shop that does.

   Varnishes will have a yellowish to amber cast to them depending on the brand. This will add a degree of warmth to the appearance.

   Let me know what you decide.

   Peter

1. 
   seattlerust | Jan 21, 2008 07:50pm | #2

   Thank you for your reply, Peter

   I am currently considering an oil based, satin Verathane finish. I have yet to try it on the burl veneer laminate though. Do you have any comment on this?

   Dick

    

    

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 22, 2008 04:13pm | #3

   Dick,

   The verathane, IMO, will give you a better look than a water based finish. It's just my opinion.

   I feel it will add a degree of warmth to the overall look and afford you plenty of protection.

   If you have any scraps of the veneer leftover, make a sample or two. That will be your best indicator.

   Good luck.

   Peter 

1. 
   seattlerust | Mar 10, 2008 10:47pm | #4

   Peter, 

   After some experimentation, I have found that the best colors are produced by a water-based varnish on the burl. This produces a lighter color with great grain and figure that matches well with the walnut color that I want. That walnut color is produces with a very light oil stain. I think, for the best protection, I want to put a final finish of a couple of coats of Verathane to protect against wet drink glasses being placed on the sruface, etc.

   This now presents a problem. How do I apply these different finishes to a table top that is assembled?  On the burl, I want to apply a couple coats of water based varnish to set the color and seal the surface, followed by multiple coats of Verathane. On the walnut frame around the three burl panels, including the two walnut separating strips, I want to stain then apply the Verathane. So Verathane goes on the whole enchalada at the end, but the water based varnish and the stain are a problem. I can't finish before assembly because the edge pieces must be routed after assembly, the panel assembly must be trimmed before the edge pieces are glued on, and the whole must be sanded.  To apply the finishes after assembly will require careful masking, but I dont see any alternative to this.

   Is there a better solution? Any advice will be appreciated.  Thank you.